<< Le Cap Dramont || Anthéor & Le Trayas >>

If a child drew it, the map of Agay could not be a more perfect, sheltered horseshoe of a bay. The deep turquoise water, fringed with sandy beaches, is wrapped in arms of the coast – Cap Dramont to the west and Pointe de la Baumette on the east – and overlooked by Rastel d’Agay, 309 m/1,000 feet of red volcanic stone.

Visitors come here to sail and windsurf, dive and canoe – the bay of Agay provides some of the best water for these pursuits along the coast of the massifs. The municipal Base Nautique offers lessons, rentals and excursions for all sorts of sailing and canoeing activities (page 275-76).

It is also a gateway to the Estérel, with lots of challenging day-long hikes, and the start of a particularly scenic stretch of the Corniche d’Or. East of Pointe de la Baumette, a series of calanques can be easily reached by canoe or kayak.

Agay is within reach of the center of Saint Raphaël by train, bus and taxi, but it has a good selection of camping and accommodations, plenty of restaurants, several markets and a lively life of its own.

Its natural harbor, Port d’Agay, has been a boat haven for more than 2,000 years. Before the Romans discovered and named it l’Agathonis Portus, it was a Celto-Ligurian fishing and trading port. The comings and goings of centuries of traders visiting the port have littered the sea floor with amphorae and fascinating evidence of ancient commerce – much to the delight of divers. From the bay, the port extends along the Agay River, making it a particularly scenic harbor for quiet walks. Evidence of the ancient port can still be seen on the left bank of the river, inland of the N98. During the summer months, traditional Provençal water jousting is organized on the river by the Association Agay Nautique (☎ 33 04 94 82 01 49).

The modern port has 166 berths, with a limited number available for day rental. (Contact Capitainerie, ☎ 33 04 94 82 74 22). Motorboat rentals are available from several companies.

At the bottom of the bay, east of the port, Plage du Lido and Plage d’Agay are long sandy beaches that stretch almost all the way around. Beach umbrellas and loungers can be rented on Plage du Lido. Plage de la Baumette is a bite-shaped scallop of quiet sandy beach near the Baumette Lighthouse. There are cafés and bars scattered all around the bay and in the village of Agay, north of the N98.

Antoine de Saint Exupéry & Agay Fans of Antoine de Saint Exupéry, France’s pilot-poet, will find Agay particularly poignant because it was the last land he saw before his final flight. The author of Night Flight, Wind, Sand and Stars and the classic The Little Prince spent many childhood summers here and, through family, is closely associated with the Château d’Agay. Saint Exupéry was a pioneering pilot as well as a philosopher and writer. Toward the end of World War II, on July 31, 1944, he took off on a reconnaissance mission from which he never returned. The lighthouse at Pointe de la Baumette, was the last monument he reported seeing before he crashed into the sea. Today, a historic marker at the base of le Phare de la Baumette, tells Saint Exupery’s story. The Fontaine Saint Exupéry à Agay, across the road from the Château, also commemorates this monstre-sacré of French literature and history.

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