Beringer Vineyards

An elm-lined avenue carries you through a 215-acre (87-hectare) estate of sculpted gardens, manicured lawns, and elaborate fountains, up to an ornate Victorian mansion. Slated roof turrets crown magnificent stonework, which in turn frames beautiful stained-glass windows. "Clark Gable graced these gables!" enthuses the guide—and you can well believe it. With its walnut furniture and Art Nouveau wood paneling inside, the mansion exudes old-world charm, fit for a star of the silver screen.

Situated more than halfway up lush green Napa Valley, this classic winery is the oldest and most historical, and arguably the most beautiful, estate in the region. It attracts huge crowds, and is even besieged from above by hot-air balloonists. You cannot help wishing you had the place to yourself. You cannot help wishing you owned it.

Beringer was founded by two German brothers in 1868, and it's easy to assume that these lucky fellows were simply in the right place at the right time. But the winery's history is as rocky as its vineyard soil; its splendid existence today was never assured. A 19th-century wine glut and problems with transport set the winery off to a shaky start; next came negative perceptions about American wine, along with the vine root disease phylloxera. In the 1920s, Prohibition seemed the final nail in the coffin.

But Beringer survived and thrived (they sidestepped the alcohol ban by producing sacramental wine). A gravity-driven facility was created, with 1,200 feet (360m) of hand-chiseled tunnels extending into the hillside to contain much of the industrial portion of the concern. No longer a family affair, the Beringer business now includes 20 wineries; there are two main visitor buildings on the sprawling estate, as well as a reconstructed carriage house and a culinary arts center.

Always a leader, Beringer was the first in Napa Valley to conduct tours (way back in 1934) and tastings (in 1956). Visitors can choose between a free, self-guided tour that is somewhat restricted, or a more expensive tour that takes you into the caves and cellars; the pricier tour includes a private tasting in a beautiful upstairs room, which is much more relaxing than the crowded barlike tasting room down below. Barrel tastings are also offered, as are wine and cheese pairings. If you are feeling adventurous, try the white Zinfandel. Or for a taste of the wine that has made the vineyard famous try the highly regarded Private Reserve Chardonnay.

Beringer is such a popular winery for visitors, you may have to contend with crowds and screaming babies—but never fear, the place is so big, there is always plenty of room for escape. Wandering around those lawns, under those shade trees—that's the most memorable part of this winery tour.