pool table

Background

In pool (the common American term for pocket billiards), a ball is struck with the end of a long, slender stick (cue), causing it to roll into other balls and knock them into holes (pockets) around the edges of the playing table. A short wall (rail) around the perimeter of the table keeps the balls on the playing surface. The rail is faced with a rubber cushion so balls that strike it rebound predictably and remain in play.

In the United States, the game's governing body is the Billiards Congress of America (BCA). One of the BCA's functions is to define specifications for equipment acceptable for sanctioned tournaments. Although it does not specify the exact size of an approved pool table, the BCA requires that its playing surface be twice as long as it is wide. BCA specifications for the table include maximum allowable surface deflections under a specified vertical force, surface flatness tolerances, size and shape requirements for the rubber cushion and the pockets, and composition requirements for the playing surface and its cloth covering.

History

The origin of billiard tables is uncertain. The most common theory is that around the fifteenth century, tables were used in France and England for an indoor version of a lawn game similar to croquet. A ball (bille in French) resting on the table was shoved with a stick (billart in French), in order to propel the ball through a wire gate to strike a wooden peg. The function of six pockets around the edges of the table is unclear. Vertical walls (banks in English) around the edges kept balls from falling off the table. The first recorded billiard table was one sold to King Louis XI of France in 1470.

Billiards developed simultaneously in England. The rules varied from place to place, as described in The Complete Gamester, a book published in England in 1674. By this time, the club-shaped billart had evolved into a slender cue. It took another century for the wire gate and upright wooden peg to gradually disappear from billiard tables. Because playing surfaces were made of wood, they had a tendency to warp. As players began to purposely rebound balls off the table's edge walls, builders began to pad the banks with cloth stuffed with horsehair or rags.

During the 1700s, billiards remained popular in France and England, and caught on in the United States. Table sizes varied, but the 2:1 ratio of length to width became standard. Rails were padded with tightly rolled cloth, producing a somewhat more predictable ball rebound.

The Industrial Revolution contributed to a series of improvements in billiard tables. Between 1800 and 1850, chalk was first used on cue stick ends to increase friction, leather cue tips were invented, diamond-shaped sights were added to rails, slate was introduced as a superior table surface, and vulcanized rubber (which maintained its properties regardless of temperature fluctuations) was quickly adapted for rail cushions.

Subsequent refinements in pool tables have related primarily to construction techniques. For example, in older tables horizontal holes were drilled in the slate edges and filled with molten lead; screws running through the vertical edge of the rail were tightened into the lead-lined hole. In contrast, rails are attached to modern tables by inserting a bolt vertically through a hole in the slate and tightening it into the bottom of the rail, pulling the rail and slate together snugly. Similarly, in older tables brass dowel pins were inserted into lead-lined horizontal holes drilled into the edges of the three slate sections where they would join to form the playing surface. In modern tables, the slate sections are held tightly together by screwing them to a wood frame, and joints are usually sealed with hot wax.

Raw Materials

Although some inexpensive pool tables use synthetic slate or plastic honeycomb sheets, the preferred playing surface (and the only one sanctioned by the BCA) is natural slate. It is quite dense, with the amount in a typical table weighing 450 lb (200 kg) or more. This mass helps keep the table stationary during play. Italian slate has long been the preferred type, but Brazilian slate now has some proponents.

Slate is prepared at the quarry, where computer-controlled, diamond-blade saws are used in conjunction with laser measuring devices to cut it into very flat sheets 0.75-1 in (1.9-2.5 cm) thick. The slate sheets are shipped in sets of three panels, which are certified as having been cut from the same slab. Three-section table surfaces are preferred because the smaller sections are lighter and safer to lift, less prone to break, and easier to level during installation. Prior to shipment, properly sized holes are drilled in the slate for the pockets and for the bolts and screws that will be used to attach the slate to the table and rails.

The other major component of pool tables is wood. Usually at least two types are used. Poplar (tulipwood), a hardwood with superior self-healing properties that holds screws tightly and recovers well when staples are removed, is preferred for the structural framework of the table. Other hardwoods that provide a more attractive finish and are more resistant to nicks and scratches are used for the outer surfaces of the table. Examples are oak, maple, and mahogany.

Rails are usually produced by laminating two types of wood-an attractive, durable hardwood for the upper section and a functional softwood (like pine) or poplar for the lower section. Grade-A vulcanized rubber is preferred for the rail cushions, which are shaped to a particular triangular profile approved by the BCA. Canvas fabric is molded to the top and base of the cushion for proper rebound performance and secure attachment to the rail.

The cloth used to cover the slate and the rails is designed specifically for pool tables. By BCA edict, it must be primarily wool; available wool/nylon blends range from 100%/0% to 60%/40%. Although it is often referred to as felt (a fabric formed by compressing fibers rather than weaving), it is actually a woven fabric with a nap (exposed, short, fuzzy fiber ends) on one surface.

Small components are made from various materials. Slate-sealing wax is specially formulated for this purpose, and is harder than beeswax. Diamond- or circular-shaped sights embedded in the rail tops are usually made of mother of pearl, abalone shell, or plastic. Pocket irons may be made of cast iron, zinc alloy, aluminum, rubber, or high-impact styrene plastic. Traditionally, pocket liners are made of leather (solid or net), but plastic or rubber is also used. Some tables use ball return ramps formed of materials such as polyethylene, aluminum, or heavy-gauge wire; they may be lined with rubber.

The Manufacturing Process

Construction techniques vary among manufacturers. The following description represents a generic process rather than an accurate account of a particular manufacturer's methods.

Preparation of components

• Edge liners made of 0.75-in (2-cm) thick 1 × 8-in (1.9 × 18-cm, finished size) and 1 × 4-in (1.9 × 9-cm, finished) lumber are glued to the bottom of the slate around the edges. The wider strips are placed under the edges where pockets will be located. Until the wood glue is dry, the liners are clamped securely to the slate.
• Following the pocket cutouts in the slate, pockets are sawed through the liner. Bolt and screw holes for attaching the rails and the table body are drilled in the liner to match the precut holes in the slate.
• Sides for the body frame are cut from 2 × 12-in (4 × 28-cm, finished) lumber. Corners and top edges of the four sides must be carefully cut because once assembled, they will slope inward at a 15° angle from top to bottom. The frame is made smaller than the slate, so the slate overlaps the frame by 3.5 in (9 cm) on each side of the table. The sides are glued and nailed or screwed together.
• Legs are prepared for the table. Solid wood pieces may be carved in decorative shapes, or hollow legs can be built by assembling wood sheets in a box shape. Wooden leg supports are glued and screwed into each corner of the frame.
• A slate frame is built on the top edges of the body frame. Strips of 1.5 × 3-in (4 × 8-cm) wood are attached so they overhang the body frame by about I in (2.5 cm), except at the corners. Two cross members made from 2 × 6-in (4 × 14-cm, finished) lumber are glued and screwed between the long sides of the slate frame to support the slate seams. A longitudinal support may be installed along the center of the frame, between the short sides. Pocket holes are cut in the corners and long sides of the slate frame.
• Lower and upper rail components are sawed from appropriate woods. They are glued together to make six laminated sections 1.75 in (4.5 cm) thick and long enough to fit between each successive pair of pockets. The face angles on the rail are cut precisely for proper positioning of the rubber cushion. A groove is cut along the top edge to accept an anchoring strip for the cloth that will ultimately cover the rail.
• Circular-or diamond-shaped sights are carefully placed at three locations on each rail section.
• An apron (also called a blind) section about 4 in (10 cm) wide is cut to match the length of each rail section. This component will cover the ends of the slate and liner, slate frame, and body frame.
• Each component is stained, fine sanded, and finished with catalyzed vamish, lacquer, and/or furniture wax. Rubber cushions are glued to the rail sections.

Assembly of components

Pool tables are usually shipped in pieces and assembled during installation of the table at the purchaser's location.

• Legs are bolted to the underside of the table body. The structure is checked for level, and shims are inserted between the legs and the body if necessary.
• The three sections of slate are screwed into place atop the table body. Shims may be placed as needed under the slate liners to ensure a flat, level surface. The seams between the three slate sections are sealed with hot wax, with any residue being carefully removed from the top surface.
• Cloth is stretched tightly and uniformly across the slate, with the edges wrapped over the slate liner and stapled to its edges. Rail faces are also covered with cloth.
• The rail sections are joined by inserting the pins of the pocket irons into holes drilled in the ends of each rail section. Bolts inserted upward through the slate are used to secure the rail atop the slate. Care must be taken to ensure that the sections are installed straight and tight. Pocket liners or ball return ramps are attached.
• Blinds are glued and screwed to the bottoms of the rails and the edges of the slate liner.

Quality Control

Major manufacturers cut wooden components with computer-controlled equipment to ensure precision. They assemble the pieces of each table by hand at the factory, checking for proper fit before disassembling them for shipment. An installer, employed by the dealer rather than the manufacturer, reassembles the pieces at the purchaser's location. The quality of the manufacturing operation and of the installation process are both important for proper performance of the table.

Materials used in the table affect the quality, appearance, and cost of the table. An inexpensive table, for example, might have particle board components that do not hold screws or staples as well as solid wood. Tables vary widely in quality and cost; a casual player who wants a table for a few years of personal recreation can get one for around $600. So-called popularly priced tables, which are well-built, durable, and attractive, may cost $1,600-$3,000.

The Future

The use of alternative materials continues to be explored. Aiming for durability and stability, for example, one manufacturer recently introduced a pool table with a frame made of steel and rails formed of tempered aluminum. The metals are covered with a decorative synthetic veneer. The slate-topped table weighs 1,050 lb (480 kg), about the same as a wooden table. The manufacturer claims the table meets BCA specifications.

Where to Learn More

Periodicals

Bowman, Paul M. "Building a Pool Table." Fine Woodworking (March/April 1989). http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm. (May 31, 2000).

Other

BCA Equipment Specifications. Billiards Congress of America. http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/specs.htm (January 6, 2000).

Gandy Pool Tables. http://gandys.com (May 31,2000).

DiPaolo, Dennis. "Pool Table Buyer's Guide." http://www.seasonalstores.com/guide.html (May 31, 2000).

Best Billiard Sales and Service. http://www.bestbilliard.com (March 24, 2000).

SAM Billiards. http://www.billaressam.com (June 3, 2000).

[Article by: Loretta Hall]

The noun has one meaning:

Meaning #1: game equipment consisting of a heavy table on which pool is played
  Synonyms: billiard table, snooker table

Larger tables may require multiple lamps to properly light the playing surface.

A billiard table or billiards table (or more specifically a pool table or snooker table) is a bounded table on which billiards-type games (cue sports) are played. In the modern era, all billiards tables, regardless of whether for carom billiards, pool or snooker, provide a flat surface usually made of quarried slate, that is covered with cloth and surrounded by rubber cushions, with the whole elevated above the floor.^[1] An obsolete term is billiard board, used in the 16th and 17th centuries.^[2][3]

Contents 1 History 2 Parts and equipment 2.1 Cushions 2.2 Cloth 3 Carom billiards tables 3.1 Dimensions 3.2 The bed 4 Pocket billiards (pool) tables 4.1 Dimensions 4.2 Pockets 4.3 The bed 4.4 Markings 5 Snooker tables 5.1 Dimensions 5.2 Pockets 5.3 Cushions 5.4 The bed 5.5 Markings 6 Other billiard tables 7 References

History

This section requires expansion.

The earliest known billiard table, in the royal court of Louis XI of France (1461–1483),^[2] was simply lawn brought indoors and placed on a large, everyday table. Rail-bounded, cloth-covered tables specifically for billiards, with wooden beds rail cushions (made of layered felt,^[2] or stuffed with straw^{[citation needed]}), soon evolved as the game's popularity spread among French and later other European aristocrats.

The increasing demand for tables and other equipment in Europe was initially met by furniture makers of the era, some of whom began to specialize in billiard tables. By 1840, the table beds were made of slate, as they are to this day in quality tables. English table maker John Thurston was instrumental in this change, having tested the surface since 1826. After experimenting with hair, shredded fabric and feathers as stuffing for the cushions, he also introduced rubber cushions in 1835. This was not initially a success, as the elasticity would vary with ambient temperature. After attempting to market cushion warmers with only partial success, Thurston was saved by the 1843 discovery of vulcanization by English engineer Thomas Hancock. Thurston used vulcanized rubber in his later cushions, and it is still used today by many manufacturers (some use synthetic materials). Thurston's first set was presented to Queen Victoria.^[2]

In the United States, manufacture of billiard tables has been ongoing since at least the mid-19th century. The forerunner of the Brunswick Company began commercial manufacture in 1845.^[4] In San Francisco, California, several manufacturers were active by the late 1800s.^{[clarification needed]}

Parts and equipment

This section requires expansion.

Cushions

Cushions (also sometimes called "rail cushions", "cushion rubber", or rarely "bumpers") are located on the inner sides of a table's wooden rails. There are several different materials and design philosophies associated with cushion rubber. The cushions are made from an elastic material such as vulcanized (gum or synthetic) rubber. The chiefly American jargon "rails" more properly applies to the wooded outer segments of the table to which the cushions are affixed.

The purpose of the cushion rubber is to cause the billiard balls to rebound off the rubber while minimizing the loss of kinetic energy.

When installed properly the distance from the nose of the cushion to the covered slate surface is 1 7/16" [1] while using a regulation 2 1/4" ball set.

The profile of the rail cushion, which is the cushion's angle in relation to the bed of the table, varies between table types. The standard on American pool tables is the K-66 profile, which as defined by the BCA has a base of 1-3/16 inches and a nose height of 1 inch [2]. This^{[clarification needed]} causes the balls' rebound to be somewhat predictable during game play.

On a carom table, the K-55 profile is used (with a somewhat sharper angle than pool cushions). K-55 cushions have cloth, usually canvas, vulcanized into the top of the rubber to adjust rebound accuracy and speed [3].

Finally, snooker tables may use an L-shaped profile, such as the L77 profile[4]. This is mostly^{[clarification needed]} because snooker uses balls of a smaller diameter and smaller pocket entrances than does pool.

Cloth

Billiard cloth (sometimes erroneously called felt) is a specific type of cloth that covers the top of the table's "playing area". Both the rails and slate beds are covered with 21-24 ounce billiard cloth (although some less expensive 19oz cloths are available) which is most often green in color (representing the grass of the original lawn games that billiards evolved from), and consists of either a woven wool or wool/nylon blend called baize.

Most bar tables, which get lots of play, use the slower, thicker blended cloth because it can better withstand heavy usage. This type of cloth is called a woolen cloth. By contrast, high quality pool cloth is usually made of a napless weave such as worsted wool, which gives a much faster roll to the balls. This "speed" of the cloth affects the amounts of swerve and deflection of the balls, among other aspects of game finesse. Snooker cloth traditionally has a directional nap, upon which the balls behave differently when rolling against vs. toward the direction of the nap.

Carom billiards tables

This section requires expansion.

Pocketless carom billiards tables are used for such games as three-cushion billiards, straight rail, balkline, artistic billiards and cushion caroms.

Dimensions

Regulation carom billiards tables are rectangles. The playing surface (measured between the noses of the cushions) is 2.84 meters by 1.42 meters with a 5 millimeter allowance.^[5] The height of the table, measured from the playing surface to the ground is between 75 and 80 centimeters.

The bed

The slate bed of a carom billiard table must have a minimum thickness of 45 millimeters and is often heated to about 5 degrees C (9 deg F) above room temperature, which helps to keep moisture out of the cloth to aid the balls rolling and rebounding in a consistent manner, and generally makes a table play faster. A heated table is required under international carom rules and is an especially important requirement for the games of three-cushion billiards and artistic billiards.^[1]

Heating table beds is an old practice. Queen Victoria of England (1819-1901) had a billard table that was heated using zinc tubes, although the aim at that time was chiefly to keep the then-used ivory balls from warping. The first use of electric heating was for an 18.2 balkline tournament held in December 1927 between Welker Cochran and Jacob Schaefer, Jr. The New York Times announced it with fanfare: "For the first time in the history of world's championship balkline billiards a heated table will be used..."^[1][6]

Pocket billiards (pool) tables

This section requires expansion.

A cue ball and the 1 ball close to a pocket

Pocket billiards tables, sometimes called pool tables, are specific to the various pool games such as eight-ball, nine-ball, straight pool and one-pocket. As the name implies, pocket billiards tables have pockets; normally six of them – one at each corner of the table (corner pockets) and one at the midpoint of each of the longer sides (side pockets).

Dimensions

Pocket billiard tables come in different sizes, typically referred to as 9-foot, 8-foot, or 7-foot tables. In all cases, the playing surface (the dimensions between the noses of the cushions) is rectangular with a 2:1 ratio. For a 9-foot table, the playing surface measures 100 inches by 50 inches with a 1/8th inch margin of error for either dimension. For an 8-foot table, the playing surface measures 92 inches by 46 inches, again with a 1/8th inch margin of error for either dimension. These are the only two sizes authorized for tournament play by the World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA).^[7] The playing surface for a 7-foot table is 76 inches by 38 inches.

Pockets

Pockets, usually rimmed with leather or plastic, may have leather bags to catch the balls, common in home billiard rooms and pool halls, or (most commonly in the coin-operated tables found regularly in bars/pubs) may lead to ball-return troughs inside the table, which channel the balls into a collection chamber on one side of the table (or, in non-coin-op models, on the racking end of the table).

The bed

For World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA) tournament play, the bed of the pocket billiard table must be made of slate no less than 1 inch thick. The flatness of the table must be no greater than +0.020 inches lengthwise and +0.010 inches across the width.^[7]

Tables not for tournament play may often use a slate bed as well, but the slate may be less than 1 inch thick. Other materials used for pocket billiard table beds include wood (typically medium-density fiberboard) and synthetic materials under various trade names.

Markings

Sights, or diamonds, are put on the rails to aid in the aiming of bank or kick shots. There are six along each long rail (with the side pocket interfering with where the seventh one would go) and three along each short rail. These divide the playing surface into equal squares.

Spots are often used to mark the head and foot spots. Other markings may be a line drawn across the head string and the outline of the rack behind the foot spot where the balls are racked. In addition, in artistic pool, lines are drawn between opposite sights putting a grid on the playing surface.

Snooker tables

Snooker table, drawn to scale

A billiard table designed for the game snooker is called a snooker table.

Dimensions

A standard tournament snooker table measures 11 ft 8.5 in by 5 ft 10 in (3569 mm by 1778 mm), though commonly referred to as 12 ft by 6 ft. Smaller 9 ft 5 in by 5 ft 10 in (2895.6 mm by 1554.48 mm) tables (commonly referred to as 9 ft by 5 ft.) are also sometimes used. The height from the floor to the top of the cushion is between 2 ft 9.5 in and 2 ft 10.5 in (851 mm and 876 mm).

Pockets

A snooker table has six pockets, one at each corner and one at the center of each of the longest side cushions. The pockets are around 70 mm (3.5 in), though high-class tournaments may use slightly smaller pockets to increase difficulty. The amount of "undercut" in the pocket determines how easily a ball is accepted. Compared to a billiards table, snooker table pockets are rounded, while pool tables have sharp corners. This affects how accurate shots need to be to get in a pocket and on rail shots from one end of the table to the other.

Cushions

The cushions (sometimes known as rails, though that term properly applies to the wood sections to which the cushions are attached) are usually made of vulcanized rubber.

The bed

The playing surface or "bed" of a good quality snooker table has a base of slate and is covered with green baize or worsted wool. The thickness of the cloth determines the speed, accuracy and responsiveness of the table to spin, thicker cloths being more hard-wearing but slower and less responsive. The nap of the cloth can affect the run of the balls, especially on slower shots. A snooker table traditionally has the nap running from baulk to the top end and is brushed and ironed in this direction.

Markings

The baulk area is marked by a line drawn at 29 in (737 mm) from the bottom cushion. A semicircle with a radius of 11.5 in (292 mm) centred on this line within baulk forms the "D" in which the cue ball must be placed when breaking or after the cue ball has been potted or shot off the table. The position of four of the colours are marked along the long string (lengthwise centre) of the table, perpendicular to the baulk line: the spot, or black spot, 12.5 in (324 mm) from the top cushion; the centre spot, or blue spot, located at the mid-point between the bottom and top cushions; The pyramid spot, or pink spot, located midway between the centre spot and the top cushion; and the brown spot, located at the mid-point of the baulk line. The exact placing of these markings will be different on smaller tables, such as a 5 ft by 10 ft pub table.

Other billiard tables

Other types of billiard tables are used for specific games, such as Russian pyramid, Asian four ball, and bumper pool. Also, British pool tables differ significantly from pool tables found in the USA. In addition, there are novelty billiard tables, typically for pocket billiards, that come in various shapes including zig-zag, circular, and hexagonal.

References

1. ^ ^{a b c} Shamos, Mike (1999). The New Illustrated Encyclopedia of Billiards. New York: Lyons Press. pp. 115, 238. ISBN 1-55821-797-5. 
2. ^ ^{a b c d} Everton, Clive (1986). The History of Snooker and Billiards (rev. ver. of The Story of Billiards and Snooker, 1979 ed.). Haywards Heath, UK: Partridge Pr.. pp. 8–11. ISBN 1-8522-5013-5. 
3. ^ Shamos, Mike (1999). The New Illustrated Encyclopedia of Billiards. New York: Lyons Press. p. 27. ISBN 1-55821-797-5. 
4. ^ History of the Brunswick Company
5. ^ http://www.umb.org/Rules/Carom_Rules.pdf
6. ^ New York Times Company (December 16, 1927). To Heat Table for First Time In World Title Billiard Match. Retrieved January 2, 2007.
7. ^ ^{a b} "WPA Tournament Table and Equipment Specifications". http://www.wpa-pool.com/index.asp?content=rules_spec. Retrieved 27 December 2008. 

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