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At the same time, Parisian cemeteries were overflowing. The largest cemetery in the center of Paris, the Cimetière des Innocents at Les Halles, had six centuries of graves, attracting vermin and causing the spread of deadly diseases like the plague. The king’s advisors decided to close the cemeteries inside the city walls, moving the bones to the tunnels at Mont Rouge, the area just outside the city gates known today as Place Denfert-Rochereau. Consecrated in 1786 by the Archbishop of Paris, the Catacombes de Paris contain the remains of over six million people, some over 1,300 years old. Although bodies were added up until 1871, the Catacombes have been open to the public since 1800, with various closures over the years to improve security and air circulation. Visitors descend a narrow spiral staircase into a gallery featuring temporary photo exhibitions, then go through a long tunnel before reaching the actual catacombs, a one-way maze of artfully stacked bones and skulls. There are plaques marking the names of the cemeteries from which each group of bones was unearthed.
CATAPHILES Humans are a curious bunch, and they’ve been sneaking around in these tunnels since they were first created. The Résistance famously used the Catacombes to operate right underneath the Germans’ noses. Today there are the diehard addicts – called cataphiles – who regularly descend into the tunnels through the latest “unknown” entry, play elaborate hide and seek games, decorate the walls, pull pranks on each other, or give tours to the uninitiated. This is obviously completely illegal and potentially dangerous, with the police and tunnel inspectors constantly trying to seal up the various entrances |
The 118,000 square feet of Catacombes open to the public make up only a small fraction of the city’s tunnels. Those not used for the métro and sewer systems have been blocked off, accessible only to city workers in case of ruptured pipes. To get a good look at what lies under the surface risk-free, check out the Urban Adventure web site (www.urbanadventure.org; do a search for “Paris”). This is the best site in English for photos and commentary on the various abandoned train stations and métro tunnels, and the catacomb network of graffiti-covered rooms, galleries, and meeting places where the cataphiles hang out.
The tunnels are obviously chilly, although the ceilings don’t drip with condensation as much as they used to since renovations in the late 1990s. Avoid wearing nice shoes that might get mucked up by the chalky white gravel on the ground. Les Catacombes de Paris, 1 Place Denfert-Rochereau, 14th, M° Denfert-Rochereau, ☎ 01 43 22 47 63. Open Tuesday, 11am to 5pm; Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 5pm (entry until 4pm). Tickets €5, €2.50 for students ages 14 to 26, free for kids under 14. Get there early in the day to avoid lines.
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