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Changthang, simply meaning Northern Plateau in Tibetan, is a high altitude plateau in western and northern Tibet extending into South Eastern Ladakh,[1] with vast highlands and giant lakes. From Eastern Ladakh Changthang stretches approximately 1600 km east into Tibet, as far as the state of Qinghai. All of it is geographically part of Tibetan plateau. It is the home of the Changpa nomads.
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Climate
The climate of Changthang is harsh and unpredictable. The summers are warm but short and thunder storms can occur at any time of year, often with hail. The winters are cold and Arctic like, despite the latitude, due to the high elevation.[2]
People
The people of the Changthang are nomadic pastoralists, they are known as 'Changpa,for'northerners,' or 'Drukpa' for 'nomads' in Tibetan. As of 1989 there were half a million nomads living in Changthang. Unlike many other nomadic groups the Changpa are not under pressure from settled farmers as the vast majority of land they inhabit is too inhospitable for farming. [2]
The economy of the region is based around the livestock of the Changpa, and the most important resource is the plants the animals graze on. The movement of the Changpa over one year limits the impact that their animals have on the grazing lands, the grasses of which are dead for 8-9 months of the year, and provide poor fodder during that time. Unlike many other nomadic pastoralists the Changpa do not move from one climatic region to another; this allows them to move shorter distances in many cases, in the range of about 10-40 miles.[3] Migratory routes are established and followed year after year, staying in the same encampments each year [4]. Often to camps that have stone walls for corals and for sheltering the tents. Wealthier nomads may have buildings for storage and living in for the part of the year they spend at that encampment.
In addition to changing pastures, there are numerous other techniques developed by the Changpa to even out the periods of surpluses and shortages. Dairy products are converted into less perishable forms (like butter and cheese) during the summer when the livestock are producing high levels of milk. Animals are slaughtered early in the winter, after fattening up in the summer and while the weather is conducive to storage.[5]
Trade has played an important role for the Changpa as they are not able to produce all the goods they consume. Salt, meat, live animals, wool, and unprocessed cashmere are traded for basics such as grain, cooking pots, and other metal implements, as well as more modern goods.
Ladakhi Changthang
Only a small part of Changthang crosses the border into Ladakh, in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It is, however, on a historically important route for travellers journeying from Ladakh to Lhasa, and now has many different characteristics due to being part of India.
As in the rest of Ladakh, Changthang has been experiencing many socio-economical developments since the late Twentieth Century. Ladakh is one of the regions most exposed to international mass tourism in India. Centuries old cultural and social fabrics are now changing rapidly, influenced by consumerist and modern lifestyles. This is becoming the source both concern and hope for the populace of the region. Another major influence in the region is Tibetan settlement due to migration caused by the Chinese take over. It was first established in 1963 with total residents of almost 3000 but today has more than 7000 settlers. For administrative purpose, the Ladakh settlement is divided into two, Sonamling and Changthang.
The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary is a house for many rare Flora and Faunas of Ladakh, and is very well cared in this wildlife sanctuary. This Wildlife Sanctuary is located at a high altitude in Ladakh district of Jammu Kashmir.
Changthang wildlife sanctuary is surrounded by two large and world famous water lakes that are Tsomoriri and Pangong Tso.
Tso-Moriri is one of the huge mountain lakes in the south east part of ladakh. Karzok village is situated on the South West bank of this lake and it’s the world’s highest inhabited village.
The flora and faunas of Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary has natural grasslands and a wide variety of more than two hundred species of wild plants that grow in higher pasture of this area and most of which is edible by animals.
Hamlets
Changthang hamlets were established when many Tibetan nomads, mostly from the western Tibet, fled and settle down in the adjoining places of Ladakh in the wake of Chinese aggression to Tibet. There are more than 3500 Tibetan refugees residing in Changthang region who depend primarily on livestock, with agriculture being their secondary occupation. These nomads were organized into Tibetan Refugee settlement in year 1977 by the Central Tibetan Administration, Dharamsala with help from Government of India and State Government at 9 different places such as Nyoma, Kagshung, Goyul, Hanley, Sumdho, Samedh, Karnag, Chushul and Churmur. These settlements are scattered across the high altitude plateau with average elevation of 4700 meters. The temperature in the region varies from -5° Celsius to -35° Celsius in winter and maximum of 30° Celsius in summer. Large areas of Changthang are semi-arid, with very little vegetation growth in the whole region. Agriculture lands and pastures are confined only along the riverbanks.[citation needed] Average snowfall though less than 10 mm can be fatal to the livestock of nomad during the month of December, January and February. Sometimes, goats and sheep cannot get access to the grass for grazing for period up to 15 days. This constitutes the most critical period for the nomads.
The education in ladakh is entirely looked after by the SOS Tibetan Children Village, one of the non-profit institutions providing education to the Tibetan children. There is facility for crèche to 10th standard. Most of students are day school but there are also boarding facility for those students who are very poor and those students from nomadic camps. Almost all children get chance to go to school and the general education level of the children is fairly good. The settlements have one modern allopathic hospital and one Tibetan medical and Astro clinic. It also has a bird sanctuary.
Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary
The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary (or the Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary) is a high altitude wildlife sanctuary located in the Ladakhi adjunct of the Changthang plateau in Leh District, Jammu and Kashmir. It is important as one of the few places in India with a population of the Kiang or Tibetan Wild Ass, as well as the rare Black-necked Crane.
Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary is Part of the Hindu Kush Himalaya, the natural enchantress. This high altitude wildlife sanctuary encompasses two of the world-famous high altitude water lakes, Tsomoriri and Pangong Tso.
The altitude of the sanctuary varies from 14000 to 19000 feet, and the topography is formed of deep gorges and vast plateaus. There are around 11 lakes and 10 marshes in the Changthang Cold Desert Sanctuary, and the majestic River Indus dances through the sanctuary, dividing it into two parts.
Other geographic features
Tsomoriri: It’s counted among the highest lakes in the world. Tsomoriri is spread in an area of 120 sq. km, with maximum depth of 40 m and situated at an altitude of 4000-5000 m. In November 2002, the lake was designated as a Ramsar site.
Pangong Tso: Situated at a height of around 4,250 m, Pangong Tso covers an area of 134 km (from India to China). Water is salty and in spite of that during winter, water freezes.
References
- ^ Rizvi, Janet (1999). Trans-Himalayan Caravans. Oxford University Press. pp. 301. ISBN 019 564855 2.
- ^ a b Goldstein, Melvyn; Cynthia Beal (1990). Nomads of Western Tibet. Cerkeley, CA, USA: University of California Press. pp. 44. ISBN 0-520-07211-1.
- ^ Goldstein, Melvyn; Beal, Cynthia (1990). Nomads of Western Tibet. Cerkeley, CA, USA: University of California Press. pp. 58. ISBN 0-520-07211-1.
- ^ Goldstein, Melvyn; Beal, Cynthia (1990). Nomads of Western Tibet. Cerkeley, CA, USA: University of California Press. pp. 60. ISBN 0-520-07211-1.
- ^ Goldstein, Melvyn; Beal, Cynthia (1990). Nomads of Western Tibet. Berkeley, CA, USA: University of California Press. pp. 83. ISBN 0-520-07211-1.
- Namgail, T., Bhatnagar, Y.V., Mishra, C., Bagchi, S. (2007). Pastoral nomads of the Indian Changthang: production system, land use and socio-economic changes. Human Ecology, 35: 497-504.
Footnotes
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