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A climbing technique is any type of body postures, movements and holds used in climbing.
Examples
Heel Hook
Using the back of the heel to apply pressure to a hold, for balance or leverage; this technique requires pulling with the heel of a foot by flexing the hamstring. This technique is notable since in most forms of climbing one uses the toes to push.
Toe Hook
A toe hook is securing the upper side of the toes on a hold. It helps pull the body inwards--towards the wall. The toe hook is often used on overhanging rock where it helps to keep the body from swinging away from the wall.
Campusing
Campusing, a word derived from the power training done on a set of campus boards, is climbing using only the arms.
Extremity Jams
Jamming involves taking advantage of a body part in a crack for the friction it produces to support a share of body weight.
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This section requires expansion with: descriptions of the various jams. |
- Hand Jams
- Whole hand
- Thumb-up hand jam - jamming the hand in a small crack with the thumb in an upward position, enabling greater reach between holds.
- Thumb-down hand jam - as with the thumb-up hand jam, but with the thumb placed downwards, a less manoeverable but more secure hold.
- Fist jam - jamming the hand into a crack with a clenched fist position, the expanded muscles securing the hand.
- Partial hand
- Finger Lock - Inserting fingers from tips to third knuckle and performing a twisting technique to lock the fingers into the crack. There are different ways to lock the fingers depending on crack and finger size.
- Thumb-up or thumb-down finger jam - as with the thumb hand jams above, but using the fingers instead of the hand as a whole.
- Ring jam - used when the crack narrows in the middle but flares out again by placing one finger round the narrow part and the thumb below, thus creating a "ring" hold.
- Thumb lock - for smaller cracks, use by locking the thumb into a crack.
- Pinkie jam - jamming the pinkie (little) finger into the crack.
- Whole hand
- Jams using a foot
- Foot jam (also known as the Heel to Toe Jam) - jamming the foot into a larger crack by twisting the foot into place, the contact with the crack being on the heel and toes.
- Toe jam in a crack - when the foot is too large, the toe jam is used by locking the toes into a crack and lowering the heel
Chest Jam
Jamming the torso into a wide crack, for resting.
Arm Bar, Elbow Bar
Jamming an arm into a crack and locking it into place.
No-Hands Rest
Method for resting without using the hands, such as standing on footholds, or using a knee bar (jamming a knee into a large crack).
Holding a Grip Tendu or Arqué
Different ways of holding a grip. Tendu is French for open hand, which means the fingers are in a position that is close to the position they are when the hand is opened--hence the name. The relative angle between the phalanges is gradual. The load applied is coming from muscular tension in the forearm muscles. Arqué is French for crimping and in this position typically the first knuckles are hyper-extended and the second has a sharp angle--about 90 degrees. In this position, muscular effort is combined with soft tissues tensions in order to apply the load. This position, when used often, has been known to overstress the tendons in the fingers and lead to injuries.
Crimp or Crimping
Grabbing onto a hold with the fingertips alone.
Chimneying
Climbing between opposing rock faces, with the back and hands against one face, and the feet against the other face, or alternating between both.
Egyptian or Drop Knee or Lolotte
Method for reducing tension in arms when holding a side grip. One knee ends up in a lower position with the body twisted towards the other leg. It can give a longer reach as the body and shoulder twists towards a hold.
Mantling or Mantleshelfing
Boosting upwards with only one's arms and ending with arms fully extended downwards. The motion is akin to getting out of a swimming pool without using the ladder.
Bridging or Stemming
Climbing a corner with the legs spread wide apart, one against each face, with the feet relying on friction or very small holds.
Egyptian Bridging
Same as bridging, but with one leg in front and one behind the body.
Laybacking
Climbing a vertical edge by side-pulling the edge with both hands and relying on friction or very small holds for the feet.
Smearing
Relying solely upon the friction of a flat surface, usually with the feet, to keep from falling. This is possible primarily due to the sticky rubber soles ubiquitously used in modern climbing shoes.
Gaston
Pulling sideways and outwards, akin to opening a pair of sliding doors. The term comes from a story about the climber Gaston Rebuffat, who apparently climbed several difficult cracks in Europe using this hand position. Normally cracks are climbed by jamming hands or fingers—or any part of the body that fits—in the crack to hold oneself.
Dyno
Using the momentum of a movement or jump to reach a hold beyond your reach. Ideally, gravity brings the movement to a stop at the "deadpoint", just as the hands reach the hold. It can involve the climber leaving all contact with the wall. The term is short for Dynamic Maneuver.
See also
External links
- Climbing Techniques footwork, jamming, dynos and more.
- climbing.tropic.org.uk has lots of info on climbing techniques
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