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This stretch of coastline about halfway between Puerto Plata and Montecristi isn’t particularly easy to get to, but those who persevere are rewarded by some of the best beaches, snorkeling, and diving on the north coast.
Playa Isabela
This beach is just down the dirt road to the right of Rancho del Sol, the one tolerable hotel in El Castillo, and is used mostly by locals who live in the area. Tourists tend to prefer the much lovelier beaches farther west in Punta Rucia, but if you’re staying in El Castillo, Playa Isabela is more convenient.
Playa Ensenata
About a half-hour walk along the dirt track leading east of Punta Rucia, this mile-long beach with incredibly white sand and calm, shallow blue water is one of the most beautiful on the north coast. It’s also very popular on weekends with families, who play merengue and bachata at incredibly high decibels. To escape the blaring music, you’ll need to head for the far western end of the beach (where you’ll only be subjected to the vibration that might drift downwind in your direction).
Playa Punta Rucia
Just as beautiful as neighboring Playa Ensenata, Playa Punta Rucia also gets crowded – mostly with the flocks of tourists bused in by tour operators from Puerto Plata. You can always seek solitude on the far east end of the beach, where you might encounter only a few daytrippers also wandering away from the crowds. On the west end there’s a restaurant/bar that caters to package tourists, and a small lagoon, good for birdwatching, which lies down a dirt path. And if you press on as far west as you can go, you will eventually come to a peaceful mangrove swamp.
Cayo Arena (Sand Island)
Cayo Arena, an exquisite little sand bar just off the coast of Punta Rucia, is reached by boat and is often populated with hundreds of daytrippers ferried over by tour operators from Puerto Plata. There’s good swimming and a healthy coral reef for snorkeling. To visit independently, make arrangements a day in advance with one of the boat captains on the beach, who charge around US $75 per person. The all-you-can drink rum-punch concession provides little relief from the sun, so bring a protective wide-brimmed hat.
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