Hanwell

Coordinates: 51°30′32″N 0°20′15″W / 51.5089°N 0.3376°W / 51.5089; -0.3376

Hanwell
Hanwell  Hanwell shown within Greater London
OS grid reference	TQ153802
London borough	Ealing
Ceremonial county	Greater London
Region	London
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	LONDON
Postcode district	W7
Dialling code	020
Police	Metropolitan
Fire	London
Ambulance	London
EU Parliament	London
UK Parliament	Ealing North
	Ealing Southall
London Assembly	Ealing and Hillingdon
List of places: UK • England • London

Hanwell is a town situated in the London Borough of Ealing in West London, between Ealing and Southall.

The local motto is: Nec Aspera Terrent (Difficulties Be Damned).^[1]

Contents 1 History 1.1 Etymology 1.2 Short history of the inns and public houses 1.3 History of healthcare in Hanwell 2 Places of interest and recreation 2.1 The local parish church 2.2 St Thomas The Apostle Church 2.3 St Mellitus Church 2.4 The Wharncliffe Viaduct 2.5 Hanwell Flight of Locks 2.6 The Central London District School/Hanwell Community Centre 2.7 Brent Lodge Park and Animal Centre 2.8 Hanwell Clock Tower 2.9 Westminster Cemetery 2.10 Other places of interest 3 Famous Hanwell residents past and present 4 The Hanwell Carnival 5 In popular culture 6 Political representation 7 Transportation 7.1 Trams, trolleybuses and motor buses 7.2 Nearest tube stations 7.3 Nearest railway stations 8 Nearest places 9 References 10 External links

History

Etymology

The name of Hanwell is of such antiquity, that its origin is likely to remain a matter of conjecture for all times. Never the less, various suggestions have been put forward: Near to the old Rectory and close to Hanwell spring, is large stone of about a ton in weight. the Anglo-Saxons had the word 'Han' to denote a boundary stone. This juxtaposition of these two natural features could have given rise to the name Han-well which dates back to before the Domesday Book. The earliest surviving reference is AD 959 when it is recorded as Hanewelle in pledge, when Alfwyn (a Saxon) pawned his land for money to go on a pilgrimage.^[1]

Also, the original boarders of the parish stretched from the bend of the River Brent at Greenford and followed the river all the way down to the River Thames, yet it is only just over 3,000 ft wide on long the east-west line of the Uxbridge Road. Its geography, before the draining of the marshes, formed a natural boundary between the different tribes of the south east of England. This gives some support to another suggestion that Han came from the Saxon han for cockerel. So perhaps Hanne – welle be derived from Han-créd -welle. The other sounds being dropped (see: Elision) to make it easier to say and a touch more euphonic. Han-créd or rather the modern synonym cock-crow was a term used until recently in both town and country to signify the boarder between night and day, and is neither one nor the other. In other word Hanwell may mean well upon the boundary. For more see: River Brent: Hydronymy. Lastly it is worth noting that the only other Hanwell in Britain is also a small parish on the very edge of Oxfordshire where forms the boundary with Warwickshire.^[1]

Short history of the inns and public houses

The Uxbridge Road (then known as the Oxford Road) was turnpiked between Uxbridge and Tyburn in 1714. The revenue from tolls enabled an all-weather metaled road surface of compacted gravel to be laid down. This encouraged an increase in traffic to supply London with its foodstuffs, which in turn allowed the city to start a rapid expansion in population.^[2]

This constant movement of people along the road, in turn brought about the establishment of coaching inns along the road as it crossed the River Brent and passed through the parish of Hanwell. In these inns, travellers could stable their horses, place their carts or goods in safe storage and secure board and lodgings for themselves overnight.

The first inn on crossing the River Brent is The Viaduct which is on the north side. Named after the Wharncliffe Viaduct (ibid), its original name was the Coach and Horses. At the back of the pub, some of the original stable building can be seen, dating to about 1730.^[2] Early in the 20th Century, The Viaduct received a new faïence façade which Nikolaus Pevsner succinctly described as "a jolly tiled Edwardian pub".^[3] Unfortunately, today the profusion of street furniture detracts somewhat from the original impact that these rich mid-browns and mid-cream glazed tiles gave the building.

Next was the Duke of Wellington, which lay approximately 400m closer to London on the southern side of the road, roughly opposite the old Hanwell Police Station. However, this had been demolished by the 1920s and was not rebuilt.

Further east still and back across on the north side of the Uxbridge Road at the junction of Hanwell Broadway is the Duke of York. This became an important staging point for stagecoaches on their way between Oxford and London. Established in the 18th century, it has been subsequently rebuilt in the Tudorbethan style.

The next pub occupies the site of what was probably the very first inn to be established on the Oxford Road as it ran through Hanwell and is known today as the Kings Arms. It lies on the south side of the road. It was original called the Spencer Arms, after Edward Spencer, who was Lord of the Manor of Boston during the Civil War. In the 18th century, the Manor Courts hearings were transferred here from Greenford, then later transferred to the Viaduct Inn.^[4] However, the present building dates back to 1930 when it was rebuilt by brewers Mann, Crossman and Paulin in the Arts & Crafts style. Though unexciting on the outside, its interior is still today, a fine example of this type of architecture and CAMRA has even placed it in its National Inventory of Pub Interiors of Outstanding Historic Interest. The lower half of the exterior walls decorated with green faïence whose faces are brick sized. These tiles also extend to cover the stallriser of the shop to the immediate right. This is because originally, this shop was built to serve as the Off-licence premises.

Gradually, retail stores and shops started to fill the gaps between these inns to take advantage of the passing trade brought by this important route into and out of the city.

During the Victorian period, the village to the north of the Uxbridge Road began to slowly expand to the south of the the road. Toward the southern end of Green Lane (the old toll-free drovers route into the city) is The Fox public house. Built in 1848 it is a largely unspoilt and original mid-Victorian pub. It has received a 'local listing' from Ealing Council as a building of local interest. It is constructed out of local golden yellow brick with more expensive red bricks used for detailing on corners and chimneys. Rich brown glazed tiles are used for the ground floor exterior walls with coloured stained glass in the fan lights. The upper story has Mock Tudor detailing, including dentils on the two outward-facing gables. Most of the interior is also original, although the dividing walls between bars and off-licence sales have been taken out to create one large bar area. The present day eating area retains its original wooden wall panelling. On the east of the building itself is a very sheltered beer garden, so food and drink can be enjoyed inside or out. The Fox was the meeting place for the local fox hunt up until the 1920s. The hunt would then set off across Hanwell Heath, much of which still existed at that time. Today however, it is more usual to stand at the bar in the early evening and watch foxes strolling by quite unfazed by the punters supping their pints of real ale at the tables and benches out-front.^[5][6][7]

History of healthcare in Hanwell

Lying to the west of the River Brent and so actually in the precinct of Norwood, the Middlesex County Lunatic Asylum was commonly referred to as the Hanwell Asylum because it was closer to the centre of Hanwell than either Norwood or Southall. The asylum was opened in 1831 to house pauper lunatics. In 1937 it was renamed St. Bernard's Hospital by which it is still known today. Built on some of its former grounds to the east is Ealing Hospital. Most of the original asylum still remains, with over half having been turned into flats and the rest remaining as a psychiatric hospital. The most interesting parts are the chapel and an entrance arch, visible from the Uxbridge Road. Within the grounds of Hanwell Asylum, on the west side of the main block, was a small isolation hospital.

The hospital was remarkable as one of its physicians, John Conolly, 1794-1866, was progressive in the treatment of patients and avoided the use of restraints. A memorial garden dedicated to him is at the junction of Station Road with Connolly Road. The hospital did have a museum housed in its chapel, but this collection has now been broken up and relocated. It included many items ranging from patient registers, reports and a large assortment of medical equipment, including a padded cell, consisting of a wooden framework with padded door, walls and floor, but no ceiling.

Within the boundary of Hanwell proper, there were three more asylums. These were all private. The first one recorded, was Popes House, which admitted its first patient (it is thought) in 1804.

Later, Elm Grove House in Church Road was turned into an asylum by Susan Wood. Her husband was the brother of Mrs Ellis, the wife of William Ellis, the first superintendent of Hanwell Asylum.^[8] The East India Company took over Elm Grove in 1870 and renamed it the Royal India Asylum. It closed in 1892.^[9]

Another local asylum was Lawn House, the home and privately-run asylum of Dr John Conolly, which he opened after retiring as superintendent of Hanwell Asylum. After his death in 1866, it was taken over by his son-in-law Henry Maudsley who ran it until 1874.

Down Green Lane and on the west side was the old Hanwell Cottage Hospital, which was named The Queen Victoria and War Memorial Hospital. This was built in 1900 and paid for by public subscription and run on voluntary contributions until the creation of the NHS in 1948. In 1979 it was replaced by Ealing District General Hospital, on the other side of the River Brent. The southern Portland stone and brick pier of the cottage hospital's entrance, bearing the inscription HANWELL was preserved as a permanent reminder of Hanwell's first hospital. The two original Edwardian street lamps outside the entrance were also preserved, but then mysteriously disappeared, causing enquiries to be made.

Places of interest and recreation

The local parish church

The earliest parish church recorded is that of St Mary. The present church structure was built in 1841. As such, it stands as one of George Gilbert Scott's very early churches, executed in the style of Gothic Revival, and consists of masoned white limestone and gault brickwork, with flint-rubble and mortar panels. Scott himself later condemned his work of this period as "a mass of horrors". However, the famous painter William Frederick Yeames, who at one time was its churchwarden, is thought to have done the wall paintings in the chancel.^[10]

Perhaps the most famous rector was Dr. George H. Glasse; he has a memorial place in his memory in St. Mary's Churchyard (Grade II). Still surviving is the home he had built for him nearby in 1809. It is executed in the style of cottage orné and named The Hermitage (Grade II). Nikolaus Pevsner described it thus: “a peach of an early c19 Gothic thatched cottage with two pointed windows, a quatrefoil, and an ogee arched door, all on a minute scale. Inside, an octagonal hall and reception room”.^[3]

In latter years another well-known rector was Fred Secombe (brother of Harry Secombe). Since leaving and moving back to Wales, he has become a prolific author.

No archaeological evidence has been found so far, to show that any church existed here earlier than shown in written records. However, due to its commanding topographical position, which enables the distinctive broach spire to be seen from many miles away, it has been suggested that this may have been a pagan place of worship long before Christianity reached this part of the world. There is however, no evidence to support this theory. An early supporter of this hypothesis was Sir Montagu Sharpe KC DL, a local historian and a member of the Society of Antiquaries.^[11] (In nearby Northolt, the parish church, which is also on high ground, has had much evidence found around it of past occupation by the beaker people.)

St Thomas The Apostle Church

St Thomas the Apostle Church was designed by architect Edward Maufe in preparation for his work on Guildford Cathedral and includes a sculpture by Eric Gill.^[12]

St Mellitus Church

Until the early years of the 20th century all of Hanwell had been one parish, St Mary’s. The inadequacy of one church to serve a growing population is indicated by the rebuilding of St Mary’s church in 1842 to cater for the increased number of church goers and then by the building in 1877 of St Mark’s as an additional church serving the south of the parish. By the turn of the century this was no longer sufficient and it was decided to create an additional parish, St Mellitus, the first in the Anglican Communion to bear that name.

The church building is an imposing Gothic style building of the Edwardian period situated on a busy cross roads in the heart of Hanwell. It was designed by the office of Sir Arthur Blomfield in 1909, built by Messrs J Dorey & Co of Brentford and consecrated by the Bishop of London, Rt Rev Arthur Winnington-Ingram in March 1910. It is a landmark building with a distinctive gable end housing three recently restored bells.

The parish was formed in 1908 and lay between the railway and Elthorne Park, thus including St Mark's as a chapel of ease. While St Mark’s would continue in this fashion as a subsidiary church for the parish, it was clear that a new, bigger parish church was needed and so Sir Arthur Blomfield was commissioned to design it. With a capacity of 800 people it was designated St Mellitus, the name probably derived from the legend, propagated by Sir Montagu Sharpe, the Middlesex historian, that Mellitus, Bishop of the East Saxons, was instrumental in the conversion of the Anglo-Saxons of Hanwell. Funds for the new church were raised from the sale of Holy Trinity in Gough Square in the city of London.

In 1980, with the retirement of the then vicar of St Mark’s, the two parishes were merged, now known as St Mellitus with St Mark’s.

The Wharncliffe Viaduct

Carrying the Great Western Railway across the River Brent, the Wharncliffe Viaduct was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel

Hanwell Flight of Locks

The Hanwell flight of six locks raises the Grand Union Canal by just over 53 feet (16.2 m) and has been designated a Scheduled Ancient Monument by English Heritage.^[13] At the top of the flight of locks towards Norwood Green is the Three Bridges designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. It is still often referred to locally as simply Windmill Bridge and is very close to the spot where the eponymous windmill once stood; attracting the attention of a local Brentford artist named Joseph Mallard William Turner. These are actually within the boundary of Southall but are named after the local village of Hanwell, which is much closer than either of the villages of Norwood or Southall.

The Central London District School/Hanwell Community Centre

The Central London District School was built in 1856 to house and educate the poor of London. By far its most famous resident was Charlie Chaplin who lived at the school from June 1896 until January 1898.^[14]

The school was closed in 1933 but parts of it remain standing, and it is in use as the Hanwell Community Centre. The Community Centre was used as a location in the film Billy Elliot. It has been declared a Grade II listed building by English Heritage^[15] but its future is uncertain.

Brent Lodge Park and Animal Centre

This park was acquired by the council as a recreation grounds in 1931 from Sir Montagu Sharpe (1856-1942), who had lived in Brent Lodge since 1884. The lodge itself, was by then dilapidated, so was demolished. The original stable block remains and is Grade II listed. For many years the park served as a 9 hole golf course requiring no more than a small driver and a putt which could be hired together with a ball from a kiosk. Small boys would supplement their pocket money by retrieving lost balls from the river.^[16]

Another attraction a was a large wired enclosure, within which unwanted pet rabbits (and tortoises, guinea pigs etc.,) were given a new home. This inevitably led to it getting the nickname 'Bunny Park' which it is still how some locals refer to it today. Later, the animal collection became more exotic as it began to receive and house imported animals that remained unclaimed after their period of compulsory quarantine had expired. Better enclosure were built and it has now become a small zoo and is a recognized member of the British and Irish Association of Zoos and Aquariums (BIAZA).^[17]

The park has a modern and well-equipped children's playground. Clearly visible on Google Earth are the 2,000 yew trees which have been planted to create the Millennium Maze. The entrance to the park is at the south-west side of St Mary's Church at the end of Church Road.

Hanwell Clock Tower

The art deco clock tower on Hanwell Broadway was unveiled on 7 May 1937 in celebration of the coronation of King George VI. The mayor at the time, Frederick Woodward, said "I consider Hanwell one of the finest gateways to the city of London, and I cannot think of a more fitting place for the clock".^[18]

Westminster Cemetery

In 1987 the Westminster Cemetery in Hanwell was one of three cemeteries that Shirley Porter's Westminster City Council controversially sold to land developers for 15p.^[19]

Other places of interest

• Elthorne Park including a Sarsen stone displayed at the entrance.

Famous Hanwell residents past and present

• Anna Brownell Jameson writer and feminist.
• Al Bowlly, singer, is buried in Westminster Cemetery.
• Charlie Chaplin, actor (attended Hanwell Central School but never resided in Hanwell),
• Daniel Hack Tuke: Distinguished mental doctor and related to the line of Tuke's which founded the York Retreat.
• Deep Purple rock band, rehearsed for their 1970 album In Rock in the Hanwell Community Centre. Promotional photographs for the album were taken in the grounds.^[20]
• Derwent Coleridge distinguished scholar, author was rector at Hanwell.
• Edward Augustus Bond (1815 – 1898) was born in Hanwell. He was a Librarian and Palaeographer who co-founded the Palaeographical Society.
• John Conolly, superintendent at the Hanwell Asylum 1839-1844. He then ran a private asylum at Lawn House, Hanwell.
• Freddie Frinton, comedian, is buried in Westminster Cemetery.
• Fred Secombe (b.1918) One-time Vicar of St. Marys church, Hanwell. Born in Swansea, he is the elder brother of the late Sir Harry Secombe. Since retiring he has become an author of seven books, in a style which has had him referred to as 'the ecclesiastical James Herriott.'
• Jimi Hendrix owned a house in Hanwell, but never lived in it.
• Jim Marshall had a small shop in Hanwell where he started manufacturing and selling his world-famous amplifiers. In an interview for Musicians Hotline, Jim Marshall said "So many players came to my
  

  

  Jonas with his brolly
  Hanwell shop, it was almost like a rock and roll labor exchange because a lot of groups were formed there".^[21]
• Jonas Hanway, writer, philanthropist and the first man to carry an umbrella in London is buried in the crypt of St Mary's Church.
• Henry Corby, businessman and politician, born in 1806 at Hanwell, died 25 October 1881 at Belleville, Ontario, Canada.
• Henry Maudsley (1835–1918) was a pioneering English psychiatrist. From 1866-1874 he ran John Conolly's private asylum at Lawn House, Hanwell.
• Henry Scott TukeRA: Son of Daniel, he became a famous painter. They both lived at Golden Manor.^[1]
• True Runescape warrior Goge was from these regions
• Peter Crouch, footballer, was a former pupil of Drayton Manor High School.
• Sally Rose, Engineer
• Philip Jackson, actor.
• Rick Wakeman, keyboardist for the band, Yes. Although Wakeman never lived in Hanwell, he attended Drayton Manor Grammar School, on Drayton Bridge Road, leaving in 1966.
• Sir Montagu Sharpe: Lived at Brent Lodge.^[22] An historian and one time president of the London and Middlesex Archaeological Society. On local history he wrote the books: Bygone Hanwell; The Great Ford of the lower Thames; Middlesex in Roman and Saxon Times and Middlesex in the Domesday Book.
• Steve Benbow (29 November 1931 – 17 November 2006) was a British folk guitar player, singer and music director.
• The Magic Numbers, indie-pop band.

• The Who rock band rehearsed in Hanwell Community Centre prior to their 1969 US Tour.
• William Frederick Yeames RA: Famous for having painted And When Did You Last See Your Father? the artist lived in Campbell Road (there is a Blue Plaque on his house to commemorate this). He was also a one time churchwarden of St Mary's church.^[23]
• Ulmus × viminalis, a variety of elm tree, was first described from a specimen growing in Hanwell (in 1677).

The Hanwell Carnival

The Hanwell Carnival, which had existed up until World War II was resurrected in 1961 with the help of circus showman Billy Smart, Jr.^[24] It is now a popular annual event with a procession of floats which travels from Brentside High School to Elthorne Park where a show arena hosts various events and local charities and organisations have stalls. There is also a music stage, a craft fair, a dog show and a funfair.

In popular culture

Hanwell has been the filming location for a number of films and television programmes:

• There for Me, British feature film: From 7th-14 July 2007 the Hanwell's First Choice Cafe on the corner of Hanwell Broadway was converted into the Broadway Café for this film. It stars Paul Bettany (born nearby, in Harlesden) and was written by his close friend Dan Fredenburgh, together with Doraly Rosen; Dan and Doraly play the lead roles. Other cast members are Olivia Williams and Rita Tushingham. It is about two people who find they have to make tough and emotionally difficult choices about their lives.^[25]

• Bridget Jones's Diary (film) (2001): Used Hanwell Cemetery as one of its many London locations.^[26]

• Staggered (1994): Starred Martin Clunes as a man late for his own wedding. St Mary's was used for most of the church shots.^[27]

• Shine on Harvey Moon (1993) for ITV television: This was a period drama series set in the 1940s. The funeral sequences were also filmed at St Mary's.^[27]

• Peep Show: The Dolphin pub (series three, episode four) and the exterior and interior of St Mary's church for Sophie and Mark's wedding (series four, episode six).

• Carry On Constable (1960): Used many locations around Ealing, with Hanwell Library serving for the exterior shots of their Police Station , St. Mary's was also used for exterior shots.

• Carry On Teacher (1959): The Maudlin Street School exterior scenes were shot at Drayton School , Drayton Grove, West Ealing.^[28]

Political representation

Hanwell is divided between two parliamentary constituencies: Ealing North (which covers Hanwell north of the railway line to Paddington), represented since 1997 by Labour MP Stephen Pound, and Ealing Southall (south of the railway line), represented since 2007 by Labour MP Virendra Sharma.

Hanwell is made up of two electoral wards for local council elections: Hobbayne and Elthorne, which both elect councillors to Ealing Council. In each of these two wards, there are two Conservative councillors and one Labour councillor. Ealing Council is currently run by a Conservative administration.

Political status of Ealing Council:

• Conservatives: 43 seats
• Labour: 23 seats
• Liberal Democrats: 3 seats

Hanwell is in the London Assembly constituency of Ealing and Hillingdon which has one assembly member: Richard Barnes (Conservative), who was re-elected in May 2008.

Hanwell is part of the London region for the European Parliament elections. The London region elects eight MPs to the European Parliament.

Transportation

Trams, trolleybuses and motor buses

In 1901 the first electric trams began to run along the Uxbridge Road, causing the population of the village to expand faster than with the arrival of the trains half a century before. First however, the tram company had to strengthen Hanwell Bridge, as well as widen it on its north side. A balustrade, which survives to this day, lines each side. Another stipulation placed upon the company was that the standards to support the catenary also had to be able to double as street lampposts. The cars cost £1,000 each yet the ordinary fare from Shepherd's Bush to Uxbridge was only 8^d. As the trams system utilised a single live overhead conductor only for each direction, this meant the residents of Hanwell not only had to put up with the general whine and mechanical clatter of the trams themselves but also their cast-iron shoes scraping along the running rails to provide a current return path. Should a stone get trapped between shoe and rail (and they often did) it would cause an ear-penetrating screech thus creating more annoyance.

A route from Brentford to Hanwell was introduced on 26 May 1906.^[29]

A tram depot (later converted into a trolleybus depot and then into a bus garage) was located on the Uxbridge Road. It was closed down in 1993 and the land has been converted into a retail park.

Routemaster buses were built at the AEC factory in Windmill Lane and much of the fuel injection equipment and electrical systems were manufactured by CAV Ltd who had a factory in Acton Vale.^[29][30] The large Routemaster tyres were moulded and cured, just to the south on the Great West Road in Brentford by the Firestone Tire and Rubber Company whose factory was opened there in 1928.^[31]

Trolley buses were introduced in 1936 and ran until the early 1960s.^[32]

Plans to reintroduce trams again in the form of the West London Tram scheme have been suggested, but were abandoned by Transport for London in 2007 in the face of local opposition.

Transport for London: Bus services to and from Hanwell. Accessed 2007-06-05

Nearest tube stations

• Boston Manor tube station
• Ealing Broadway tube station
• Perivale tube station

Nearest railway stations

• Hanwell railway station, built circa 1875-77, has been declared a Grade II listed building by English Heritage, but the buildings are now in "a dilapidated condition".^[33]
• The Crossrail train scheme is planned to include a stop at Hanwell railway station.
• Castle Bar Park and Drayton Green railway stations also serve the town.

Nearest places

NW: Greenford	North: Perivale	NE: Pitshanger Village
West: Southall	Hanwell	East: West Ealing
SW: Norwood Green & Osterley	South: Brentford	SE: Gunnersbury

References

External links

• Hanwell: Introduction, A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 3: Shepperton, Staines, Stanwell, Sunbury, Teddington, Heston and Isleworth, Twickenham, Cowley, Cranford, West Drayton, Greenford, Hanwell, Harefield and Harlington (1962), pp. 220–24. Date accessed: 24 June 2006.
• Hanwell History
• Central London District Schools
• Ealing Borough Council (2007). Hanwell Clock Tower Area Conservation Character Appraisal. Accessed 2007-06-26
• Hanwell.org.uk Website aims to provide useful information to the local residents. Accessed 2009-01-26
• Hanwell Steering Group
• Lawns Residents Association, Hanwell Residents association representing the Lawns area of Hanwell. Accessed 2007-09-21
• Hanwell Midtown Residents Action Group. Accessed 2007-09-21
• Hanwell Community Centre website Accessed 2008-09-16

Local Cemeteries

• Hanwell Cemetery

Local sport clubs:

• Hanwell Town Football Club

Other

• [1] Rotary Club of Hanwell & Northfields

Local Councillors

• Contact details for Hobbayne councillors Colm Costello (Con), Phil Greenhead (Lab) & Rosa Popham (Con). Accessed 2008-09-16
• Contact details for Elthorne councillors Julia Clemments-Elliot (Lab), Amit Kapoor (Con) & Jonathan Oxley (Con). Accessed 2009-01-26

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