Lake Merritt

Lake Merritt
A view looking west toward the Lakeside Apartments District, the Tribune Tower and Downtown Oakland
Location	East of downtown Oakland
Coordinates	37°48′14″N 122°15′33″W / 37.8039°N 122.2591°W / 37.8039; -122.2591Coordinates: 37°48′14″N 122°15′33″W / 37.8039°N 122.2591°W / 37.8039; -122.2591
Lake type	recreation, lagoon, wildlife refuge
Basin countries	United States

Lake Merritt Wild Duck Refuge
U.S. National Register of Historic Places
U.S. National Historic Landmark
Looking Southwest across Lake Merritt. In the distance are the Rene C. Davidson Alameda County Court House and Henry J. Kaiser Convention Center. At the right is the Bellevue-Staten Building.
Built/Founded:	1870
Governing body:	Local
Added to NRHP:	October 15, 1966[1]
Designated NHL:	May 23, 1963[2]
NRHP Reference#:	66000205

Lake Merritt is a large tidal lagoon that lies just east of downtown Oakland, California. It is surrounded by parkland and city neighborhoods. A popular 3.1 mile (5 km)^[3] walking and jogging path runs along its perimeter. It is historically significant as the United States' first official wildlife refuge, designated in 1870.

History

The "lake" is an estuary formed where several creeks empty into San Francisco Bay. It was surrounded by 1,000 acres (4 km²) of wetlands in the time when Ohlone Indians fished, hunted and gathered food along its shores. By 1810, the remaining Indians were removed to Mission San José and the estuary and 44,800 acres (181 km²) of surrounding land was deeded to Sergeant Luis Maria Peralta to become Rancho San Antonio. After gold was discovered in 1848 in present-day Coloma 125 miles (201 km) to the northeast, Anglo squatters led by lawyer Horace Carpentier took control of the East Bay area which was to become downtown Oakland, including the estuary known as "San Antonio Slough."^[4] In 1856, Peralta fought and won a United States Supreme Court case against the squatters but further court cases between his sons and daughters would greatly diminish their holdings. The Peralta brothers had to sell much of the land to Carpentier to pay legal fees and new property taxes. Oakland was incorporated in 1852 with Carpentier as its first mayor and the estuary became the city's sewer.^[5]

While some believe that Lake Merritt is affected by the tides, it is actually a lacustrine area that has lake levels that act completely independent of the coastal tide changes. The lake acted as a sewer, it was regarded as ideal for sewage because of the chemical contents of the lake which have high acidities causing the lake to decompose human feces at very high rates. Sixty miles of brick and wood channeling sent the broken down sewage to the bottom of the lake to then be eaten by bottom feaders. The stench at during the decomposition of the sewage was a problem for Oaklanders on the west shore and residents of Clinton and San Antonio villages on the east.^[5]

Dr. Samuel Merritt, a mayor of Oakland who owned property at the shore's edge, was keen to get the body of water cleaned up so that it could become a source of civic pride. In 1868, he proposed and funded a dam between the estuary and the bay by which the flow of water could be controlled, allowing the water level inland to rise higher and become less saline, turning the tidal lagoon into a lake. Sewage was to be redirected elsewhere by two new city projects, though these weren't completed until 1875. The resulting body of water was called variously "Lake Peralta", "Merritt's Lake" and later Lake Merritt.^[5][6]

The lake at that time still had thick wetlands fringing the shores and it continued to attract large numbers of migratory birds. In order to protect the birds from duck hunters and stop the noise and danger of gunfire so close to the city, Dr. Merritt proposed to turn the lake into a wildlife refuge in 1869. The state legislature voted Lake Merritt Wildlife Refuge into law in 1870, making it the first such refuge in North America. No hunting of any sort was to be allowed and the only fishing was to be by hook and line.^[5][7]

The ornate Camron-Stanford house was built in 1876 near the lake's western shore. Tax records suggest that Samuel Merritt built the Italianate Victorian as part of his plan to promote and develop downtown Oakland and the new lake. In 1877, the house's title was transferred to Mrs. Alice Camron, a purchase she was able to make due to an inheritance. She, her husband Will and their two daughters were the first residents of the home. Further fine homes were built on the lakeshore by others following Dr. Merritt's lead, though none but Camron-Stanford remain today.^[8]

Protection for the wetlands was nonexistent and residences kept being built on reclaimed land around the shore of the lake. Cleanliness continued to be a problem because of incomplete sewage projects and the lake kept silting up since the natural tidal flow had been interrupted by Merritt's dam. Dredging of the lake began in 1891, with the removed silt being piled along the eastern shore to make a foundation for a road which became Lakeshore Avenue.^[5]

From 1893 to 1915, Lake Merritt saw major changes. Inspired by the new City Beautiful movement which got its start at the World's Columbian Exposition (Chicago World's Fair), the lake became a city-owned park. An elaborate Mission Revival pergola was constructed at the northeastern tip of the lake. Adam's Point was cleared of houses, planted with lawns and imported trees and became Lakeside Park. Eastshore Park was created where East 18th Street brought Trestle Glen's watershed to the lake. Oakland Civic Auditorium was built at the south edge of the lake.^[5]

1923 saw Cleveland Cascade spring into life, conceived and assisted by noted landscape architect, Howard Gilkey. This was a three-tiered water feature incorporating multiple waterfalls tumbling sequentially into twenty large collection basins and a pool at the bottom, flanked by twin stairs descending from Cleveland Heights to Lakeshore Avenue. Colored lights in rainbow sequence lit the waterfall at night.^[9]

1925: The "Necklace of Lights" is turned on.

1929 is the year the luxurious Bellevue-Staten apartments were completed at 492 Staten Avenue in Adam's Point near Lakeside Park. The 15-story blend of Art Deco and Spanish Colonial styles is one of the most prominent sights viewable from nearly every point of Lake Merritt.^[10]

Lake Merritt's natural wetlands are long gone—converted to parks, pathways and roads. Some of the wetland vegetation has been restored to five "Bird Islands" constructed of dredged silt between 1925 and 1956; islands which shelter hundreds of nesting and roosting water fowl. The islands have a fresh water irrigation system to bring drinking water to the birds. A boom and a rope/buoy barrier protects the islands from recreational boaters.^[11]

Children's Fairyland was built in 1950 in Lakeside Park.

Under the name Lake Merritt Wild Duck Refuge, the site became a National Historic Landmark on May 23, 1963.^[2][12],^[13]

Starting in 1961, Oakland's "Downtown Property Owner's Association," ^[14] and the "Central Business District Association" repeatedly advocated for extending Alice Street directly through Snow Park, which was then the grounds of the Snow Museum, past the Schilling Gardens and the Bechtel Building at 244 Lakeside Drive, and down to the Lake's edge on 20th Street. They purportedly sought to alleviate motorist traffic congestion that might be caused by the closure of Broadway during construction of the nearby BART line. The plan met stiff opposition from Oakland's City Council in October 1964, which, as reported by the Staff of the Oakland Tribune at the time, told downtown property interests to "quit wasting its time."^[15]

Necklace of lights

The "necklace of lights" around Lake Merrit.

A "necklace of lights" encircles Lake Merritt. Featuring 126 lampposts and 3,400 "pearly bulbs", the necklace was first lit in 1925. In 1941, the lights were dimmed to comply with World War II blackout conditions. After a decade-long campaign, the lights were again illuminated in 1985.

During Oakland's annual gay pride celebration, the city replaces the white bulbs with multicolored bulbs.^[16]

Birds of Lake Merritt

A view looking east toward man-made islands of the Lake Merritt Bird Sanctuary. The Bellevue-Staten apartment building is in view, and the Oakland/Piedmont Hills are in the background.

The lake features a healthy year-round population of birds. It sees seasonal fluctuations in the types of birds that call the lake home.

Year round

All year round, the lake is home to moderate Canada Goose, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Egret, Cormorant, American Coot, and Western Gull populations. There are also small Mallard Duck and Pelican (both American and Brown) populations.

Rainy season

From November through March, the lake plays host to a very large population of Greater Scaup and Lesser Scaup, which spend most of their time floating on the water, mostly just sleeping. Smaller numbers of Canvasback, Bufflehead, and other migratory diving ducks are also present during the cold season.

Dry season

From June until the end of September, the lake's Canada Goose population increases significantly; Canada Geese become nearly ubiquitous around the perimeter of the lake. In late summer and early fall, a moderate Pelican population also arrives.

Cleanup and restoration of Lake Merritt

View of Lake Merrit with aeration fountain

Because storm drains in downtown Oakland and surrounding areas drain directly into the lake, nutrient pollution has become the single largest problem affecting Lake Merritt. Increased levels of chemicals like nitrogen and phosphorus cause algae bloom, which depletes the water of oxygen.^[17] For a while, the fountains that infuse oxygen by spraying water were shut off due to electrical problems. The fountains are now back on line, but they have been circulating the litter that can constantly be found floating on the lake surface. Local volunteer groups, such as St. Paul's Episcopal School, have started cleaning the trash, and school children, along with their science teachers clean up the lake using nets.^{[citation needed]}

Despite nutrient pollution, more toxic agents have drained into the lake from time to time. In 1998, about 20 gallons of diesel fuel leaked into the Lake following a "freakish accident" in the basement of the Caltrans building in the 100 block of Grand Avenue.^[18]

Improvements

Measure DD, a $198 million Oakland City park bond measure, passed with 80% voter approval in 2002. The measure will improve the lake area by adding park space and altering the infrastructure that surrounds it. One prime example of a needed improvement is on Lake Merritt's south shore. The current configuration of 12th Street is six lanes in each direction, as an expressway merging and splitting from 14th Street and International on either side, which many consider a detriment to pedestrian and bicycle access to landmarks on the other side, such as Laney College, Oakland Museum of California, Kaiser Convention Center (closed) and Lake Merritt Channel. The dam is backed by a concrete wall supporting 12th Street westbound, a sidewalk, and unusable tunnels, interrupting the trail. Part of the Measure DD project involves returning 12th Street back to a major street, with three lanes in each direction to calm traffic, and realignment to add park space (the dam being demolished for this), and adding eleven more necklaces of lights to the gap. Lakeshore Avenue on the east is slated to be narrowed to two lanes and striped for bicycle lanes, and an existing three-way triangular intersection (20th, Harrison, and Lakeside) in Uptown Oakland in front of Kaiser Center is slated to be converted to two-way cross traffic. The Lake Merritt Channel will also be daylighted where it crosses under the east split of 12th Street through a culvert; the reconfigured 12th Street will have a bridge crossing over the channel.

The renovation of Lake Merritt, paid for with money from Measure DD, has been stalled by an environmental review lawsuit, which was filed last year by a group of concerned residents, "Friends of the Lake," as well as cost overruns for the project.^[19] On October 17, 2007, an Alameda County Superior Court judge dismissed a lawsuit intended to prevent cutting trees around Oakland's Lake Merritt, making way for city workers to begin removing the trees in the spring

References

An outdoor milonga (tango dance party) at the restored gazebo near Children's Fairyland in Lakeside Park

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Lake Merritt

• National Historic Landmarks Program
• Oakland Public Works - 12th Street Reconstruction
• Lake Merritt Project Stalls; 12th Street Bid Rejected, San Francisco Chronicle, March 15, 2007
• Lake Merritt Interactive Map: Oakland Convention and Visitors Bureau
• Lakeside Park/Lake Merritt
• History of Lake Merritt's Wildlife Sanctuary
• Birds of Lake Merritt
• The Lake Merritt Institute
• Interview with "The Lakekeeper"
• The Cleveland Cascade - once-stunning water feature on the shore of Lake Merritt, being restored by Lake Merritt Institute.

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