Martigues

Marseille & Aix En Provence: Worth a Side-Trip: Martigues

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Four hundred years ago, three villages, l’Isle, Jonquière and Ferrières, united to form Martigues. Today, this apparently small town, divided by canals and laced together with bridges, is actually one of the largest in the Bouches du Rhône region, with a population of about 45,000. Luckily, the explosion of growth, fostered by the development of major oil refineries in the suburbs, has left the center relatively untouched and totally charming.

Known as the “Venice of Provence” (not be be confused with l’Isle sur la Sorgue, the “Venice of the Vaucluse”), it straddles one end of the Canal de Caronte, which links the Etang de Berre with the Mediterrandean about 38 km/23.6 miles from Marseille.

Sunset casts a painterly light over the canals of Martigues, near Marseille. © Ferne Arfin

Fishermen used to occupy the narrow streets around the Canal St. Sebastian, still known as the fisherman’s quarter. Their pastel-colored, 17th-century houses now provide weekend homes for film stars and wealthy Marseille residents.

There are several cramped and atmospheric old districts, their lanes filled with shops and cafés. Each of the three original villages has an ancient church – the most impressive being the Cathedral de la Madeleine, in the center, with its wrought iron, Provençal bell tower.

Today, the center of Martigues (the island that was once the village of l’Isle) is a popular pleasure boat harbor. Its pedestrian quays are good places to look for lively of cafés and restaurants.

A floating stage is set up in the Canal St. Sebastian for the Festival of Martigues. © Ferne Arfin

Throughout the summer, Martigues hosts performances and music festivals in its multi-stage, festival center, and on a temporary stage floated in the Canal St. Sebastian. Ferrières, the section north of the l’Isle, also has some pretty beaches on the Etang Berre. The island is probably the most picturesque part of Martigues but the best shops are scattered in the old district of Jonquières, the southern section.

Getting Here: 38 km/23.6 miles west of Marseille on the A55. Bus and local train service is available from Marseille.

More Information: Tourist Office, Rond Point de l’Hôtel de Ville, Avenue Louis Sammut,13500 Martigues, ☎ 33 04 42 42 31 10, fax 33 04 42 42 31 11, ot.martigues@visitprovence.com, www.visitprovence.com (choose Martigues from the drop-down menu).

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