Mercado Central

Seafood, seafood, seafood—the long, skinny country of Chile is practically nothing but coastline; you'd expect the local cuisine to center around seafood. And that's what this covered market in Chile's capital is all about. A distinctly fishy aroma prevails as you wander around fishmongers' stalls piled high with the fruits of the sea, accompanied by a crowd of seafood restaurants where the prices are moderate and the servings huge.

Built in 1872, the market's pale yellow arcaded exterior is a graceful example of neoclassical colonial architecture, but inside is an Art Nouveau–style cast-iron interior that looks more like a train station than a covered market, with a soaring steel roof imported from England. For years this was Santiago's main wholesale food market, but in recent years the fishmongers have been squeezing out the produce vendors (they now sell fruits and vegetables across the river at the colorful La Vega market), and now the restaurants are beginning to overrun the retail operations.

Touristy it may be, but it's quite a vibrant scene—stroll around and watch the vendors deftly gutting and filleting their fish at lighting speed, while waiters shill vociferously to lure prospective diners into their restaurants. Look especially for massive Chilean sea bass, salmon, and king crabs; salt-crusted oysters, still alive, are piled in buckets, alongside heaps of mussels, razor clams, and sea urchins on beds of shaved ice.

Come at lunchtime, when you can follow up your shopping with a stop at a restaurant for a freshly made ceviche or perhaps the local caldillo de congrio (conger eel soup). Ignore the aggressive advances of the waiters at the larger, more commercial restaurants and head to the back corners of the market to get better value for your money (Tio Lucha and Donde Blanca are two good choices); the fish should be plenty fresh, so opt for the simplest preparations. The market is open daily, but closes around 4pm—by which time what's left of that morning's catch is past its prime anyway.