
Set upon a massive rock just off the Normandy coast, the great Gothic abbey church of Mont-St-Michel is often called the Marvel of the West. Approaching across the coastal flatlands, I get chills when I see its Gothic splendor triumphantly piercing the sky, usually cloaked in dramatic fog. Legend claims it is protected by the archangel Michael, but the abbey is guarded by earthly elements as well—powerful tides churn around the tiny island, and massive rampart walls circle the abbey itself. Think of the engineering required to build on this sheer outcrop—it's a marvel it has stood this long, yet it does, a magnificent pile rising to a spire with a gilded statue of St. Michael.
In the Middle Ages, this was a popular pilgrimage site, founded in the 8th century by St. Aubert, the bishop of Avranches, upon the divine orders of St. Michael (the bishop procrastinated at first, but he came around once the angel burned a hole in his skull, so the story goes). Nowadays the island is connected to shore by a causeway, but medieval pilgrims could get here only at low tide, walking across treacherous tidal sands. (The kids eyed that causeway with respect, wondering if the next high tide would wash over it and strand us on the island.) In the 10th century the oratory was upgraded to a Benedictine monastery, and the monks continued to build and renovate over the next 6 centuries, as various parts burned down or toppled over. Bristling with spires as it climbs the steep slopes, the abbey looks more like a fortress than a holy retreat—a fact that served it well in the Hundred Years' War (1337–1453), when it almost miraculously resisted capture by the English. The rampant walls also made it easy to convert to a prison, after the monks were disbanded, in the days of the French Revolution. It's been a national monument since the late 19th century, and recently some new monks have settled in as well.
Warn the kids that there'll be a lot of climbing: It's a steep walk to the abbey up Grande Rue, lined with half-timbered 15th- and 16th-century houses, and inside the abbey walls are more staircases. Secreted within the abbey are some lovely Gothic interiors, most notably the Salle des Chevaliers (Hall of the Knights) and graceful cloisters with pink granite columns. Crowning the summit is the splendid abbey church, begun in the 11th century—note the round Romanesque arches in the nave and transept, whereas the pointy arches of Flamboyant Gothic were in fashion when the choir was rebuilt in the 15th century. In the summer, you can even visit the church at night—not a bad idea if you want to avoid those modern pilgrim hordes on day-tripping coach tours.
For more information on Mont-Saint-Michel, visit Britannica.com.
Approaching across the coastal flatlands, you see its Gothic splendor erupt toward the sky, usually cloaked in dramatic fog. Set upon a massive rock just off the Normandy coast, the great Gothic abbey church of Mont-St-Michel rises dramatically from its rampart walls to an ethereal spire topped with a gilded statue of the archangel Michael, the abbey's guardian spirit. Just think of the engineering required to build this immense church on this tide-scoured outcrop—it's a marvel it has stood this long.
In the Middle Ages, this was a popular pilgrimage site, founded in the 8th century by St. Aubert; medieval pilgrims could get here only at low tide, walking across treacherous tidal sands, a challenge that increased the spiritual value of the journey. Enhanced over the next few centuries, however, as the abbey's monks grew richer and more powerful, the abbey came to look more like a fortress than a holy retreat—a fact that served it well in the Hundred Years' War (1337–1451), when it almost miraculously resisted capture by the English. The rampart walls also made it easy to convert to a prison after the monks were disbanded, in the days of the French Revolution. Since the late 19th century, it's been a national monument, not a church, although recently some new monks have settled in as well.
It's a steep walk to the abbey up Grande Rue, lined with half-timbered 15th- and 16th-century houses. Inside the Abbey of Mont-St-Michel (☎ 33/2/33-89-80-00; www.mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr) , there are more staircases to climb. But it's worth it to investigate these stunning Gothic interiors, most notably the Salle des Chevaliers (Hall of the Knights) and graceful cloisters with rosy pink granite columns. Crowning the summit is the splendid abbey church, a rare example of one structure that displays the whole spectrum of Gothic architectural styles—note the round Romanesque arches in the 11th-century nave and transept, transitioning to the pointy flamboyant Gothic arches of the 15th-century choir area. I highly recommend staying overnight on the mount, especially if you come here in summer, so you can visit the church at night—not a bad idea for avoiding hordes of day-trippers.
The narrow land bridge that once connected Mont-St-Michel to the mainland, exposed only at low tide, was beefed up in 1879 into a permanent causeway, accessible at all hours, despite the fact that this bay has the highest tides in Europe. But the causeway blocked off the natural tidal processes, and as nearby coastal land was also reclaimed for agriculture, the bay gradually began to silt up. Around the bay you'll see work being done on an ambitious hydraulic dam project, to be completed by 2015 if all goes well—it will ensure that magical, mystical Mont-St-Michel remains a true island forever.
When you think of the engineering required to build this immense church on this tide-scoured outcrop, it's a marvel it has stood this long. Short-sighted renovations that built the causeway and altered natural tidal patterns has exacerbated the silting up of the bay. Can the government reverse this?
Approaching across the coastal flatlands, you see its Gothic splendor erupt toward the sky, usually cloaked in dramatic fog. Set upon a massive rock just off the Normandy coast, the great Gothic abbey church of Mont-St-Michel rises dramatically from its rampart walls to an ethereal spire topped with a gilded statue of the archangel Michael, the abbey's guardian spirit.
Yet in the last couple of centuries, St. Michael seems to have let down his guard. The narrow land bridge that once connected Mont-St-Michel to the mainland, exposed only at low tide, was beefed up in 1879 into a permanent causeway, accessible at all hours. Meanwhile, the local folks kept on tinkering with the natural tidal processes—polderizing shallow parts of the bay to create pastureland, making a canal out of the Couesnon River—until the bay gradually silted up. Finally, in June 2006, the French government took action, initiating a hydraulic dam project to make Mont-St-Michel a true island again, by 2012 if all goes well.
In the Middle Ages, this was a popular pilgrimage site, founded in the 8th century by St. Aubert; medieval pilgrims could get here only at low tide, walking across treacherous tidal sands, a challenge that increased the spiritual value of the journey. Enhanced over the next few centuries, however, as the abbey's monks grew richer and more powerful, the abbey came to look more like a fortress than a holy retreat—a fact that served it well in the Hundred Years' War (1337–1451), when it almost miraculously resisted capture by the English. The rampart walls also made it easy to convert to a prison after the monks were disbanded, in the days of the French Revolution. Since the late 19th century it's been a national monument, not a church, although recently some new monks have settled in as well.
It's a steep walk to the abbey up Grande Rue, lined with half-timbered 15th- and 16th-century houses. Inside the abbey walls are more staircases to climb. But it's worth it to investigate the abbey's stunning Gothic interiors, most notably the Salle des Chevaliers (Hall of the Knights) and graceful cloisters with rosy pink granite columns. Crowning the summit is the splendid abbey church—note the round Romanesque arches in the 11th-century nave and transept, transitioning to the pointy Flamboyant Gothic arches of the 15th-century choir area. In the summer, if you're staying on the mount, you can visit the church at night—not a bad idea for avoiding hordes of day-trippers.
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Le Mont Saint-Michel |
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| Le Mont Saint-Michel | |
| Administration | |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Lower Normandy |
| Department | Manche |
| Arrondissement | Avranches |
| Canton | Pontorson |
| Intercommunality | Communauté de communes de Pontorson - Le Mont-Saint-Michel |
| Mayor | Éric Vannier (2008–2014) |
| Statistics | |
| Elevation | 5–80 m (16–260 ft) |
| Land area1 | 0.97 km2 (0.37 sq mi) |
| Population2 | 42 (2008) |
| - Density | 43 /km2 (110 /sq mi) |
| INSEE/Postal code | 50353/ 50116 |
| 1 French Land Register data, which excludes lakes, ponds, glaciers > 1 km² (0.386 sq mi or 247 acres) and river estuaries. | |
| 2 Population without double counting: residents of multiple communes (e.g., students and military personnel) only counted once. | |
Coordinates: 48°38′10″N 1°30′41″W / 48.636°N 1.5114°W
Mont Saint-Michel (pronounced: [mɔ̃ sɛ̃ mi.ʃɛl]; English: Saint Michael's Mount) is a rocky tidal island and a commune in Normandy, France. It is located approximately one kilometre (just over half a mile) off the country's north-western coast, at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avranches. The population of the island is 41, as of 2006. The island has been a strategic point holding fortifications since ancient times, and since the 8th century AD it became the seat of the Saint-Michel monastery, from which it draws the name. The Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay are part of the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.[1] More than 3,000,000 people visit it each year.[2]
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In prehistoric times the bay was land. As sea levels rose, erosion shaped the coastal landscape over millions of years. Several blocks of granite or granulite emerged in the bay, having resisted the wear and tear of the ocean better than the surrounding rocks. These included Lillemer, the Mont-Dol, Tombelaine (the island just to the north), and Mont Tombe, later called Mont-Saint-Michel.
Mont Saint-Michel was previously connected to the mainland via a tidal causeway, i.e. a trackway covered at high tide and revealed at low tide. This connection has been altered over the centuries. The coastal flats have been polderised to create pasture, thus the distance between the shore and the south coast of Mont-Saint-Michel has decreased, and the Couesnon River has been canalised, reducing the flow of water and thereby encouraging a silting-up of the bay. In 1879, the tidal causeway was converted into a raised or dry causeway. This prevented the tide from scouring the silt around the mount.
On 16 June 2006, the French prime minister and regional authorities announced a €164 million project (Projet Mont-Saint-Michel)[3] to build a hydraulic dam using the waters of the river Couesnon and of tides to help remove the accumulated silt deposited by the rising tides, and to make Mont-Saint-Michel an island again. It was projected to be completed by 2015.[4]
The construction of the dam began in 2009 and is now complete. The project also included the destruction of the causeway and its visitors car-park. It will be replaced by a light bridge, allowing the waters to flow freely around the island, which will improve the efficiency of the now operational dam, and a replacement car-park on the mainland. Visitors will use small shuttles to cross the future bridge which will still be open to pedestrians and unmotorised vehicles.
Mont-Saint-Michel was used in the 6th and 7th centuries as an Armorican stronghold of Romano-Breton culture and power, until it was ransacked by the Franks, thus ending the trans-channel culture that had stood since the departure of the Romans in AD 460.
Before the construction of the first monastic establishment in the 8th century, the island was called "monte tombe". According to legend, the Archangel Michael appeared to St. Aubert, bishop of Avranches, in 708 and instructed him to build a church on the rocky islet. Aubert repeatedly ignored the angel's instruction, until Michael burned a hole in the bishop's skull with his finger.[5]
The mount gained strategic significance in 933 when William "Long Sword", William I, Duke of Normandy, annexed the Cotentin Peninsula, definitively placing the mount in Normandy. It is depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry which commemorates the 1066 Norman conquest of England. Harold, Earl of Wessex is pictured on the tapestry rescuing two Norman knights from the quicksand in the tidal flats during a battle with Conan II, Duke of Brittany. Norman Ducal patronage financed the spectacular Norman architecture of the abbey in subsequent centuries.
| Mont-Saint-Michel and its Bay * | |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Type | Cultural |
| Criteria | i, iii, vi |
| Reference | 80 |
| Region ** | Europe |
| Inscription history | |
| Inscription | 1979 (3rd Session) |
| * Name as inscribed on World Heritage List ** Region as classified by UNESCO |
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In 1067, the monastery of Mont-Saint-Michel gave its support to duke William of Normandy in his claim to the throne of England. It was rewarded with properties and grounds on the English side of the Channel, including a small island off the southwestern coast of Cornwall which was modeled after the Mount and became a Norman priory named St Michael's Mount of Penzance.
During the Hundred Years' War, the English made repeated assaults on the island, but were unable to seize it due to the abbey's improved fortifications. Les Michelettes – two wrought-iron bombards left by the English in their failed 1423–24 siege of Mont-Saint-Michel – are still displayed near the outer defense wall.
When Louis XI of France founded the Order of Saint Michael in 1469, he intended that the abbey church of Mont Saint-Michel be the chapel for the Order, but because of its great distance from Paris, his intention could never be realized.
The wealth and influence of the abbey extended to many daughter foundations, including St Michael's Mount in Cornwall. However, its popularity and prestige as a centre of pilgrimage waned with the Reformation, and by the time of the French Revolution there were scarcely any monks in residence. The abbey was closed and converted into a prison, initially to hold clerical opponents of the republican régime. High-profile political prisoners followed, but by 1836, influential figures – including Victor Hugo – had launched a campaign to restore what was seen as a national architectural treasure. The prison was finally closed in 1863, and the mount was declared a historic monument in 1874. The Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay were added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979, and it was listed with criteria such as cultural, historical, and architectural significance, as well as human-created and natural beauty.[6]
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The Coat of Arms of Mont Saint-Michel are emblazoned with rippled green and blue bars, and two diagonal silver salmon facing opposite directions.[citation needed] |
William de Volpiano, the Italian architect who had built the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy, was chosen as building contractor by Richard II of Normandy in the 11th century. He designed the Romanesque church of the abbey, daringly placing the transept crossing at the top of the mount. Many underground crypts and chapels had to be built to compensate for this weight; these formed the basis for the supportive upward structure that can be seen today. Today Mont-Saint-Michel is seen as a Romanesque style church.
Robert de Thorigny, a great supporter of Henry II of England (who was also Duke of Normandy), reinforced the structure of the buildings and built the main façade of the church in the 12th century. In 1204 the Breton Guy de Thouars, allied to the King of France, undertook the siege of the Mount. After having set fire to the village and having massacred the population, he was obliged to beat a retreat under the powerful walls of the abbey. Unfortunately, the fire which he himself lit extended to the buildings, and the roofs fell prey to the flames. Horrified by the cruelty and the exactions of his Breton ally, Philip Augustus offered Abbot Jourdain a grant for the construction of a new Gothic-style architectural set which included the addition of the refectory and cloister.
Charles VI is credited with adding major fortifications to the abbey-mount, building towers, successive courtyards and strengthening the ramparts.
The tides in the area change quickly, and have been described by Victor Hugo as "à la vitesse d'un cheval au galop" or "as swiftly as a galloping horse".
The tides can vary greatly, at roughly 14 metres (46 ft) between high and low water marks. Popularly nicknamed "St. Michael in peril of the sea" by medieval pilgrims making their way across the flats, the mount can still pose dangers for visitors who avoid the causeway and attempt the hazardous walk across the sands from the neighbouring coast.
Polderisation and occasional flooding created salt marsh meadows that were found to be ideally suited to grazing sheep. The well-flavoured meat that results from the diet of the sheep in the pré salé (salt meadow) makes agneau de pré-salé (salt meadow lamb), a local specialty that may be found on the menus of restaurants that depend on income from the many visitors to the mount.
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The islet belongs to the French commune of Mont-Saint-Michel, in the département of Manche, in Basse-Normandie. Population (1999): 50. The nearest major town, with an SNCF train station, is Pontorson. Mont-Saint-Michel belongs to the Organization of World Heritage Cities.
Mont-Saint-Michel has also been the subject of traditional, but nowadays good-humoured, rivalry between Normans and Bretons. Bretons claim that since the Couesnon River marks the traditional boundary between Normandy and Brittany, it is only because the river has altered its course over the centuries that the mount is on the Norman side of the border. This legend amuses the area's inhabitants, who state that the border is not located on the Couesnon river itself but on the mainland at 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) in the west, at the foot of the solid mass of Saint-Brelade.
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Statue of Archangel Michael atop the spire
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Historically, Mont Saint-Michel was the Norman counterpart of St Michael's Mount in Cornwall, UK when it was given to the Benedictines, religious order of Mont Saint-Michel, by Edward the Confessor in the 11th century.
The iconic island has long been plagued by a threat of being completely cut off from the mainland. Engineers have worked for many years to find a solution. In 2012 a grand-scale project to restore the Mont-St-Michel's maritime setting is well underway. On April 28, 2012 a new visitor center and a shuttle across to the site will be in place.
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