"No poo"[1] (no shampoo) is a collective term for methods of washing hair without commercial shampoo.[2]
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The first synthetic shampoos were introduced in the 1930s,[3] with daily shampooing becoming the norm in the US by the 1970s and 1980s.[1] Proponents of "no poo"-practices believe that shampoo removes the natural oils (sebum) produced by the scalp—causing the scalp to produce more oil to compensate.[1][2] They also believe that regular shampooing causes a "vicious cycle" to develop as it becomes necessary to shampoo regularly to compensate for the excess oils (that were stripped by shampooing).[1]
According to some dermatologists, a gradual reduction in shampoo use will cause the sebaceous glands to produce at a slower rate, resulting in less oil on the scalp and hair.[2] The time taken to break the cycle after adopting "no poo"-practices varies, however a "two- to six-week period" is typical.[1]
Shampoo typically contains chemical additives such as sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. There are health concerns about these chemicals, which can irritate the skin of sensitive persons (or of anyone if not thoroughly rinsed).[4] Such chemical additives are also believed by some consumers to dry out their hair.[5]
Some shampoos also include silicone derivatives (such as dimethicone), which is claimed to coat the hair[citation needed]. While it is claimed that silicone derivatives protect the hair and make it more manageable[citation needed] (dimethicone is a common ingredient in smoothing serums and detangling conditioners), the film that proponents assert coats the hair is also claimed to prevent moisture from entering the hair, eventually drying it out[citation needed].
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One study has shown that the early sebum flow after the skin is cleaned comes mainly from a reservoir in the pilosebaceous follicle, and not from any feedback stimulation of the sebaceous gland to overcompensate for the loss of the sebum after washing.[6] However, some shampoos in the study did cause an increase in measured sebum levels, lending credence to the reactive sebum production idea.
The purest form of "no poo" adoption is to use only water to wash hair, however there are other approaches possible by people wishing to avoid oil-stripping substances and chemicals that they consider unnecessary for the maintenance of their hair. Methods for washing hair without shampoo include washing with dissolved baking soda followed by an acidic rinse such as diluted vinegar.[2][1] Also honey and various oils (such as coconut oil) can be used.
Following a 2007 radio interview that Australian Richard Glover held with Matthew Parris (a Times columnist "who hadn't shampooed for more than a decade"), Glover "decided to challenge his audience to go without shampoo for six weeks". Of the over 500 participants in the challenge, 86% reported that "their hair was either better or the same" following the challenge. [7]
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