| Ibn Sina Peak / Lenin Peak | |
|---|---|
 Ibn Sina (Lenin) Peak from Irkeshtam–Sary Tash trail (Kyrgyzstan) |
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| Elevation | 7,134 metres (23,406 ft) |
| Location | Tajikistan Kyrgyzstan |
| Range | Trans-Alay Range (Pamirs) |
| Prominence | 2,790 metres (9,154 ft) |
| Coordinates | 39°20′33″N 72°52′39″E / 39.3425°N 72.8775°ECoordinates: 39°20′33″N 72°52′39″E / 39.3425°N 72.8775°E |
| First ascent | 1928 by Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider |
| Easiest route | rock snow ice climb |
| Listing | Ultra |
Ibn Sina Peak, Lenin Peak (Kyrgyz: Ленин Чокусу, Russian: Пик Ленина; Tajik: қуллаи Ленин, renamed қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино in July 2006[1]), rises to 7,134 m in Gorno-Badakhshan (GBAO) on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and is the second-highest point of both countries. Ibn Sina is the highest mountain in the Trans-Alay Range of Central Asia, and in the Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan it is exceeded only by Ismail Samani Peak (7,495 m). It was thought to be the highest point in the Pamirs in Tajikistan until 1933, when Ismail Samani Peak (known as Stalin Peak at the time) was climbed and found to be more than 300 metres higher (7,495 m). Two mountains in the Pamirs in China, Kongur Tagh (7,649 m) and Muztagh Ata (7,546 m), are higher than the Tajik summits.
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Names
The peak was discovered in 1871 and originally named Mount Kaufmann after Konstantin Kaufman, the first Governor-General of Turkestan. In 1928 the mountain was renamed after the Russian revolutionary and first leader of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Lenin. In Tajikistan side the peak was renamed again in July 2006,[1] and today it is officially called in Tajik Qullai Abuali ibni Sino (қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино) after Abu Ali ibn Sina, or in English Ibn Sina Peak (alternatively, Avicenna Peak). In Kyrgyzstan side peak is still officially called Lenin Chokusu (Ленин Чокусу), or or in English Lenin Peak.
Some sources give Achiktash as the Kyrgyz name for this 7,134 m mountain on the border with Tajikistan,[2][3] but it seems that Achiktash, or more properly Achik-Tash, is the name of a plateau and a base camp at an altitude of 3,600 m on a popular northern climbing route to Lenin Peak, which starts in the southern Kyrgyz city of Osh, a day's drive north of the border.[4][5]
Climbing history and routes
The peak was first climbed in 1928 by Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider, members of a German expedition.
There are 16 established routes, nine on the southern side and seven on the northern slopes. The peak is quite popular with climbers due to its easy access and some uncomplicated routes. However, the peak is not without its share of disasters. In 1974, an entire team of eight climbers died high on the mountain in a storm. An avalanche triggered by an earthquake killed 43 climbers in 1990.[6]
References
- ^ a b Government Resolution No. 297, July 4, 2006, Dushanbe (Tajik); for Russian text see.
- ^ Central Asian ultra-prominence peaks on peaklist.org
- ^ Achiktash: a tourist attraction
- ^ Achik-Tash camp in Kyrgyzstan on the way to Lenin Peak (Russian)
- ^ View of Lenin Peak from Achik-Tash
- ^ Avalanche Kills 40 Climbers in Soviet Central Asia
External links
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