Richard Blackwell

Richard Blackwell, born Richard Sylvan Selzer, (August 29, 1922) in Brooklyn, New York is a fashion critic, journalist, television personality, artist, and former fashion designer known internationally as Mr. Blackwell. He is the creator of the Ten Worst Dressed Women list, an annual awards presentation he unveils in January of each year. He also publishes the "Fabulous Fashion Independents" list and an annual Academy Awards fashion review, both of which receive somewhat less media attention. His longtime companion, former Beverly Hills hairdresser, Robert Spencer, manages him. He has written two books, Mr. Blackwell: 30 Years of Fashion Fiascos^[1] and an autobiography, From Rags to Bitches.^[2]

Early life

Blackwell was raised in the Bensonhurst section of Brooklyn. He is of Jewish-Italian decent and grew up in the tenements that housed the “working-poor” immigrant families of the early 20th century.^[3] As a child, he claims he was severely beaten by his stepfather (he never knew his biological father), often resorting to sleeping in the alley beneath his fire escape with a broken bottle he used for protection rather than face further abuse. He only completed the third grade of elementary school.^[4] He also alleges that at age 11, he was the victim of rape by an older man while attending a boys’ camp.^[5]

Actor

He began acting in theater in his teens, appearing in the original 1935 Broadway production of Sidney Kingsley’s Dead End. In reality he was a member of an Eastside street gang called “The Little Tough Guys”. After relocating to the West Coast in the 1930s (where he went to school with Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney, among others) he adopted the name “Dick Ellis” and was signed by the studios to play small parts in the motion picture industry.^[6] Howard Hughes changed his name to Richard Blackwell when he signed him to RKO.^[7] He went back to Broadway in 1944 for Catherine Was Great with Mae West but eventually left acting for a short stint as a Hollywood agent. He discovered a talent for design while making his client’s stage costumes.^[8]

Fashion designer

The name, "Mr. Blackwell" came in the late-1950s when he launched his clothing line. As with Valentino, Versace and later Richard Tyler, he and his line became synonymous. He was an important designer and during the 1960s he became the first in history to present his line on a television broadcast; and the first to make his line available for plus-size women.^[9] His designer dresses sold for between $800 to $1,000 and were very successful.^[10] During the nearly two decade existence of the "House of Blackwell”, he was designer to Yvonne DeCarlo, Jayne Mansfield, Dorothy Lamour, Jane Russell and California first lady Nancy Reagan.^[11] At the height of his prominence he openly declared his disdain for Women's Wear Daily and its publisher John Fairchild.^[12] During the 1980s the emerging drift toward casual wear brought an end to The House of Blackwell.^[13]

Fashion critic

In his beginning years as a designer he was ask to do a one time article for American Weekly magazine of the “10 Best and Worst Dressed” people and developed the franchise from it.^[14] Although best known for his “Worst Dressed“ list, he has maintained a successful career as a fashion journalist. He is syndicated in The Globe tabloid and writes features in newspapers and lifestyle magazines.^[15] His "Fabulous Fashion Independents" often features celebrities whom in prior years have been listed in his Ten Worst Dressed, suggesting he may be evenhanded in his critiques, albeit not equally publicized in the media.^[16]

The “List”

The first “Ten Worst Dressed Women” list premiered in 1960, to the moderate media success, but as the House of Blackwell became more successful, the list took off.^[17] By its third year every television and radio network and virtually all news services worldwide began to cover it. Forty-seven years after first released, Blackwell annually spends a week after its publication on telephone interviews to fashion magazines, radio programs and news networks.^[18] The list is a conglomeration of alliterative techniques from first letter alliteration: Martha Stewart -- "dull, dowdy and devastatingly dreary. …" and consonant: “fabulous fashion independents”, to free verse: Cher – “A million beads/ And one overexposed derriere”, and pun: Queen Elizabeth, “Was she the palace Christmas tree, or just a royal clown?” Often, he simply quips: Martha Stewart – “Dresses like the centerfold for Farmer’s Almanac”, and other times combines forms: Dixie Chicks – “They look like a trio of truck stop fashion tragedies/ trapped in a typhoon”.^[19] The list’s popularity has waned in some segments of contemporary culture, many feeling that it is mean-spirited. However Blackwell has displayed personal missives from many celebrities including Dolly Parton, Mariah Carey and country singer Tanya Tucker expressing their thanks for being selected.^[20]. Other former list alumni like “Hollywood Beat” editor, Marci Weiner – “Why does Marci Weiner always dress like she’s auditioning for a Fellini movie?” – who was initially angered by her inclusion, now considers it an honor.^[21] Still, with its possible decline in universal acceptance, it is nonetheless published each year by the world’s premiere media outlets.^[22] While upon casual observation it could be concluded that the list is rude, it should be noted that historically the fashion maven only selects subjects of the highest celebrity for inclusion, generally pop culture icons who capitalize on their flamboyant appearance, such as rock star Christina Aguilera or the mega-wealthy such as the Royals whom he does include with some regularity.^[23] He also uses subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) association – Britney Spears and Paris Hilton: “Two peas in an over-exposed pod” to bind the subjects of his barbs.^[24] During the tabloid coverage of Prince William’s alleged infatuation with Britney Spears,^[25] Blackwell weaves in a subtle reference to the future monarch with an early Spears’ appearance on the list -- “This belly-baring songbird/ is better heard than seen”, using the British slang term for an attractive woman, “bird” to make the royal association, while also crediting Spears’ talent, and making his foundational point that it is always about fashion.^[26] He has on occasion in recent years included men on his list, notably Howard Stern, Dennis Rodman and Marilyn Manson “… like Alice Cooper doing Rosemary’s Baby.”^[27] It is worth pointing out that the attacks on Blackwell from other media are perhaps equal to or worse than the shots he takes in his lists.^[28]

Imitators

And yet the list has spawned an unexhausted parade of imitators from Late Night with David Letterman’s “Top 10 Reasons” and TMZ’s ‘’In The Zone: Mr. Blackwell vs. TMZ’’^[29] to the UK’s The Sun newspaper’s, Sun Women Online: Celebrity Style Watch^[30] and the less known such as “The Catwalk Queen”.^[31] Not all are lists, but virtually all include jibes and jabs similar to those that Blackwell first used to capture media attention in the early 1960s.

Television

He is a pioneer in television fashion and has been a fixture in the medium throughout his career as a designer and critic. Most recently, he appeared as himself on an episode the ABC daytime soap, Port Charles.^[32] Perhaps most importantly, he has blazed some trails in the industry.

Historic shows

In 1968 he stared in his own KCOP two hour color television special,’’Mr. Blackwell Presents’’, with Anna Maria Alberghetti, Nick Adams and Rose Marie.^[33] It was the first telecast in history in which a designer presented his line on television. He continues to be recognized as a preeminent during his years in the field.</ref>Colorado State University Historic Costume & Textile Museum</ref>

He often participated in audience critique segments on daytime talk and variety shows. He appeared on The Mike Douglas Show on numerous occasions, ^[34] and on The Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson. The 90 minute episode also featured Rob Reiner and Johnny Mathis.^[35] He appeared on a total of four additional Tonight Shows between August 1970 and January 1973 and is included in the series “Best Of The Tonight Show” DVD sets.^[36]

Pop culture

Mr. Blackwell has become permanently established in the popular culture. In the Seinfeld television series episode (No. 87), “The Chaperone” originally aired on 22, September, 1994, the Kramer character becomes a chaperone for a Miss Rhode Island contestant in a national beauty pageant. In an exchange with Kramer (played by Michael Richards), Seinfeld exclaims, “Well, if it isn’t Mr. Blackwell,” as Kramer slides into the room. Kramer responds, “Oh, come on! … You’re pooh-poohing!” to which Seinfeld responds, “Yes, I pooh-pooh.” ^[37] He was played by Harry Shearer on the 20 May 1995 episode of SCTV’s, ‘’The Show Formerly Known as The Martin Short Show’’.^[38] In 2006, CBS picked up an AP story about US figure skater Johnny Weir’s costume at the Olympics in Turin under the Headline: “Figure Skating Gets Ugly: Mr. Blackwell You’re Wanted At The Olympics”.^[39]

Personal life

Blackwell lives in the Hancock Park enclave of Los Angeles with his partner-manager Robert Spencer. In 1963 they rented their home to The Beatles for the English band’s first visit to the city, however it was leaked to the media and the group made other arrangements.^[40] He is also an artist known for his avant-garde and has published several editions of his work, including his ‘’Mother America’’ series.^[41] In 2001, Blackwell was diagnosed with Bell’s Palsy which causes limited to severe paralysis of facial muscles and effects the use of the extremities and can effect eyesight as well. Although treatable, Bell's palsy is incurable; however, it often clears up on its own. Blackwell was unable to unveil the 2000 list at a live news conference for the first time in its 40-year history and remained out of the public eye for six months. He came back for the 2001 “Worst Dressed” and returned to a full, normal social life.^[42]

Filmography

‘’A partial list of film and television appearances in America’’

Juvenile Court Film (1938) – as “Ears” (Dick Selzer)
Little Tough Guy (1938) – as “Bud” (un-credited)
Promises! Promises Film (1963) Wardrobe designer for Jayne Mansfield
The Mike Douglas Show (1967) Daytime talk/variety – Guest appearance
Mr. Blackwell Presents (1968) TV special (Host, designer and producer)
The Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson Late night talk: (1970 – 1973) – Five guest appearances
The Virginia Graham Show (1971) Daytime talk – Guest appearance
The Mike Douglas Show (1972) Daytime talk/variety – Guest appearance
The Mike Douglas Show (1975) Daytime talk/variety – Guest appearance
The Brady Brides TV series (1981) ‘’A Pretty Boy Is Like A Melody’’ – as himself
Matt Houston TV series (1982) ‘’Deadly Fashion’’ as “Valentine St. Clair”
Matlock (1990, two pt. episode) – as the Art dealer
Civil Wars (TV series) (1992) ‘’The Triumph of DeVille’’ -- as himself
Blossom TV series (1991) ‘’Blossom: A Rockumentary’’ – as himself
Hollywood Women Mini-series (1994) – as himself (Interviewed); Segment 4: ‘’Fear and Violence’’
Howard Stern TV series (1995, two episodes) – Guest appearances
Port Charles TV series, (1997, 1999) – as himself (13 episodes)
Intimate Portrait Lifetime TV documentary (1998) Marilyn Monroe -- Interview
Elvis Is Alive! I Swear I Saw Him Eating Ding Dongs Outside The Piggly Wiggly’s Film (1998) – as himself
Foreign Correspondents TV anthology (1999) -- as “Second landlord”

Broadway

‘’Dead End’’ (1935) Billed as Richard Seltzer
‘’Catherine Was Great’’ (1944) with Mae West; billed as Dick Ellis

Ten Worst Dressed Women List

For 2006

1. Britney Spears and Paris Hilton (tie) ("Two peas in an overexposed pod! Style-free and fashion deprived... ladies and gentlemen, the 'SCREAMGIRLS' have arrived!")
2. Camilla Parker-Bowles ("The Duchess of Dowdy strikes again! In feathered hats that were once the rage, she resembles a parakeet from the Jurassic age. A royal wreck.")
3. Lindsay Lohan ("Tragically trapped in fashion's fast lane…looks like Lindsay's ready to remake “Baby Jane.” From adorable to deplorable.")
4. Christina Aguilera ("La Diva Christina is a dazzling singer, But she puts good taste through the wardrobe wringer! All crass, no class!.")
5. Mariah Carey ("Mariah the fashion pariah has finally found her stylistic niche … let's crown her the Queen of Catastrophic Kitsch".)
6. Paula Abdul ("Wrapped in floral fiascos that grow moldier by the hour . . . She's a lumpy stem on a bumpy flower. A fallen fashion idol.")
7. Sharon Stone ("It's clear Sharon's misplaced her fashion gift - she looks like an over-the-hill Cruella De Ville - after a seismic shift!")
8. Tori Spelling ("All chills and no thrills - guess Tori's “Down and Out in Beverly Hills!” She's definitely under fashion duress - positive proof that More is really Less!")
9. Sandra Oh ("Oh, Sandra! Drowning in beads, bangles and prehistoric bows, she's layered lunacy - from toes to nose!")
10. Meryl Streep ("From Streep you could weep, her beauty of a career cannot be denied, but that beast of a wardrobe is pure mother of the bride.")