Chances are you've never been as close to the sky as you'll be at Rocky Mountain National Park, most of which is at least 8,000 feet high. Up here, the air is so thin and cool you'll feel giddy, the sun's UV rays so intense that sun block and sunglasses are a must. It's a land of ponderosa pine, gnarled alpine tundra, heathery slopes, bare granite, dizzying views, and so many elk they'll browse right up to your campground. The Continental Divide slices across the middle of this compact park—you can drive over it on Trail Ridge Road, that stretch of U.S. 34 that cuts across the park east to west—it's 48 miles of truly spectacular mountaintop views, much of it above the timberline. The park also has laid out several short nature trails that kids will enjoy—check park maps for the Moraine Park Nature Trail, the Sprague Lake Nature Trail, and the Bear Lake Trail; the Beaver Boardwalk near the beginning of Trail Ridge Road is a great place to scout out dam-building beavers.
But the best way to plunge into this wilderness is to swing into a Western saddle and take a ride on horseback. Ever since this park was founded in 1915, it's been a popular high-country riding area. While many national parks offer only a standard 1-hour circle ride, at Rocky Mountain you can take guided trail rides from 2 to 8 hours, or even book overnight pack trips; early-morning trail rides that include a cowboy breakfast are always a hit with kids. An ample network of worn dirt trails—some 260 miles of them—wind into the glacier-carved countryside past steep, craggy mountain slopes and small, round reflecting lakes. Children as young as 6 can have a horse to themselves, while younger children ride with a parent.
There are stables all over the area, several of them run by Sombrero Ranch Stableswww.sombrero.com . On the more developed eastern side of the park, there's one at Moraine Park (☎ 970/586-2327), another near the Glacier Basin Campground on Sprague Lake (☎ 970/586-3244), and one just outside the park opposite Lake Estes Dam on U.S. 34 (☎ 970/586-4577). On the west side of the park, there's another just outside park boundaries in the Grand Lakes area (☎ 970/627-3514). Also in Grand Lake, the family-oriented Winding River Resor (see below) offers 1- and 2-hour trail rides, plus pony rides for younger riders.
For more information on Rocky Mountain National Park, visit Britannica.com.
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)Rocky mountain national park, defined by extreme cold and abundant snow, encloses the largest and most accessible expanse of alpine tundra in the lower 48 states. Global warming, which is creating warmer and drier conditions in the Rockies, could degrade the tundra and threaten cold-weather plants and animals.
First the elk were there, then they weren't. Then they were again.
In the old days, herds of North American elk happily roamed this part of the Colorado range, straddling the Continental Divide at altitudes of 8,000 feet (2,400m) and up. But intensive hunting had slashed their population so low by 1913 that the US Forest Service "borrowed" 49 elk from Yellowstone to release here. Meanwhile efforts were made to eliminate the elks' main predators, grizzly bears and gray wolves. The elk population rebounded—and how.
Drive along Rocky Mountain National Park's most spectacular route, the 48-mile (77km) Trail Ridge Road that bisects the park east to west, and you'll be cruising through gnarled alpine tundra, bare granite, and heathery slopes—you'll feel like you're at the top of the world. Nowadays, it's home to anywhere from 1,000 to 3,000 elk (also called wapiti, to distinguish them from the European elk, which is actually a moose—go figure). They drift in and out of the park seasonally in search of grazing land, but if you come here in late May or June you're very likely to see elk cows with their spotted calves, foraging along mountain creeks and gnawing on the bark of the slender aspen trees—look for the stripped patches they leave on tree trunks. In summer the Alpine Visitor Center, up at Fall River Pass, has a viewing platform where you can almost always see an elk or two.
Elk stay above the treeline in summer, but they descend to lower elevations in the fall, when mating season begins. The elk converge in montane meadows—prime spots are the Kawuneeche Valley, Horseshoe Park, Moraine Park, and Upper Beaver Meadows—near dawn and again at dusk. Be sure to stay by the roadside and remain as quiet as possible to watch this phenomenon, because the elk get very agitated. Bull elk do not physically fight over the females, but they put on quite a show, displaying their enormous antlers and powerful necks, and letting loose the most god-awful mating call you've ever heard—a series of low booming tones swooping up to a high-pitched whinny, followed by obscene chuffing and grunting. It's called bugling, and it's the trademark nighttime sound of the Rocky Mountain Park. Observing the elk courtship is such a popular activity, rangers send out alerts to let park visitors know where the biggest gathering is on any given autumn evening.
As more property along the park boundary gets developed, however, there's less open space for these wide-ranging animals, and their customary migratory routes are sometimes blocked off. But if it weren't for this park, they wouldn't be here at all.
| Rocky Mountain National Park | |
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IUCN category II (national park)
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Dream Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park |
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| Location | Larimer / Grand / Boulder counties, Colorado, USA |
| Nearest city | Estes Park and Grand Lake, Colorado |
| Coordinates | 40°20′00″N 105°42′32″W / 40.3333333°N 105.70889°WCoordinates: 40°20′00″N 105°42′32″W / 40.3333333°N 105.70889°W |
| Area | 265,761 acres (107,550 ha)[1] |
| Established | January 26, 1915 |
| Visitors | 3,176,941 (in 2011)[2] |
| Governing body | National Park Service |
Rocky Mountain National Park is a national park located in the north-central region of the U.S. state of Colorado. It features majestic mountain views, a variety of wildlife, varied climates and environments—from wooded forests to mountain tundra—and easy access to back-country trails and campsites. The park is located northwest of Boulder, Colorado, in the Rockies, and includes the Continental Divide and the headwaters of the Colorado River.
The park has five visitor centers. The park headquarters, Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, is a National Historic Landmark, designed by the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture at Taliesin West.[3]
The park may be accessed by three roads: U.S. Highway 34, 36, and State Highway 7. Highway 7 enters the park for less than a mile, where it provides access to the Lily Lake Visitor Center which is closed indefinitely. Farther south, spurs from route 7 lead to campgrounds and trail heads around Longs Peak and Wild Basin. Highway 36 enters the park on the east side, where it terminates after a few miles at Highway 34. Highway 34, known as Trail Ridge Road through the park, runs from the town of Estes Park on the east to Grand Lake on the southwest. The road reaches an elevation of 12,183 feet (3,713 m), and is closed by snow in winter.
The California Zephyr serves Granby (near the west entrance of the park) by rail from Denver, crossing the Continental Divide through the Moffat Tunnel well south of the park. The park's website suggests Granby as an appropriate rail terminus for visitors,[4] although it lies a good sixteen miles from the park without public transportation connections.
The park is surrounded by Roosevelt National Forest on the north and east, Routt National Forest on the northwest, and Arapaho National Forest on the southwest.
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Rocky Mountain National Park encompasses 265,761 acres (415.25 sq mi; 1,075.50 km2) of land in Colorado's northern Front Range.
The park is split by the Continental Divide, which gives the eastern and western portions of the park a different character. The east side of the park tends to be drier, with heavily glaciated peaks and cirques. The west side of the park is wetter and more lush, with deep forests dominating.[citation needed]
The park contains 359 miles (578 km) of trails, 150 lakes, and 450 miles (720 km) of streams. The park contains over 60 named peaks higher than 12,000 feet (3,700 m), and over one fourth of the park resides above tree line. The highest point of the park is Longs Peak, which rises to 14,259 feet (4,346 m; surveys before 2002 show 14,255 feet (4,345 m) [1]) above sea level. Longs Peak is the only fourteen thousand foot peak in the park.[citation needed]
Several small glaciers and permanent snowfields are found in the high mountain cirques, including Andrews Glacier, Sprague Glacier, Tyndall Glacier, Taylor Glacier, Rowe Glacier, Mills Glacier, and Moomaw Glacier.
The lowest elevations in the park are montane forests and grassland. The ponderosa pine, which prefers drier areas, dominates, though at higher elevations douglas fir trees are found. Above 9,000 feet (2,700 m) the montane forests give way to the subalpine forest. Engelmann Spruce and Subalpine Fir trees are common in this zone. These forests tend to have more moisture than the montane and tend to be denser. Above tree line, at approximately 11,500 feet (3,500 m), trees disappear and the vast alpine tundra takes over. Due to harsh winds and weather, the plants in the tundra are short with very limited growing seasons. Streams have created lush riparian wetlands across the park.
July and August are the warmest months in the park, where temperatures can reach the 80s although it is not uncommon to drop to below freezing at night. Thunderstorms sometimes appear in the afternoons, and visitors should plan on staying below tree line when they occur. Heavy winter snows can begin around mid-October, and last into April. While the snow can melt away from the lowest elevations of the park, deep snow is found above 9,000 feet (2,700 m) in the winter, causing the closure of Trail Ridge and Fall River roads during the winter and spring. Most of the trails are under snow this time of the year, and snowshoeing and skiing become popular. Springs tend to be wet, alternating between rain and possibly heavy snows. These snows can occur as late as July. The west side of the park typically receives more precipitation than the drier east side.[citation needed]
The park is dominated by Longs Peak, which is visible from many vantage points, and has an elevation of 14,259 feet (4,346 m). Each year thousands of people attempt to scale it. The easiest route is the Keyhole Route, impassable to regular hikers in all but the hottest summer months due to snow and ice. This eight-mile (13 km) one-way climb has an elevation gain of 4,850 ft (1,480 m). The vast east face, including the area known as The Diamond, is home to many classic big wall rock climbing routes.
Not all leave Longs Peak alive and safe. There is a stone gazebo at the Keyhole formation with a plaque memorializing Agnes Vaille, a well-known climber in the 1920s. In January 1925, Vaille fell 100 ft (30 m) while descending the North Face. Vaille survived the fall with minor injuries, but was unable to walk. Her climbing partner, professional mountaineering guide Walter Kiener, went for help; but when rescuers arrived, Vaille had died of fatigue and hypothermia.
Bear Lake, in the heart of the park, is a popular destination and trailhead. The lake lies below Hallett Peak and the Continental Divide. Several trails start from the lake, ranging from easy strolls to strenuous hikes. Bear Lake Road is open year round, though it may close temporarily due to bad weather.
Trail Ridge Road connects the town of Estes Park in the east with Grand Lake in the west. The road reaches an altitude of 12,183 feet (3,713 m), with long stretches above tree line. It passes the Alpine Visitors' Center, a popular destination, and crosses the Continental Divide at Milner Pass. Numerous short interpretive trails and pullouts along the road serve to educate the visitor on the history, geography, and ecology of the park.
The southern area of the park is Wild Basin, a wild and remote region. Several trails cross the area and backpacking it is popular.
The Mummy Range is a short mountain range in the north of the park. The Mummies tend to be gentler and more forested than the other peaks in the park, though some slopes are rugged and heavily glaciated, particularly around Ypsilon Mountain and Mummy Mountain.
The snow-capped Never Summer Mountains are found in the west side of the park. Here the south-trending Continental Divide takes a brief sharp northward loop, which creates an interesting reverse scenario, where the Pacific Basin is on the east side of the divide and the Atlantic Basin on the west. The mountains themselves, the result of volcanic activity, are craggy and, more often than not, covered in deep snow. This area saw the most extensive mining in the park, and trails lead past old mines and ghost towns.
Paradise Park is hidden in the peaks above Grand Lake. This rugged and wild area has no trails penetrating it.
The Front Range was created by the Laramide Orogeny, the last of three major mountain-building events, which occurred between 70 and 40 million years ago. Tectonic activity during the Cenozoic Era changed the Ancestral Rocky Mountains via block uplift, eventually forming the Rocky Mountains as they exist today. The geologic make-up of Rocky Mountain National Park was also affected by deformation and erosion during the Cenozoic Era. Many sedimentary rocks from the Paleozoic and Mesozoic eras exist in the basins surrounding the park.
Evidence has shown that Native Americans have visited the area of the park for the last 10,000 years. Their influence in the region was limited, however, and their visits often transitory. The Ute Tribe visited the west side of the park, particularly around Grand Lake. The Arapaho visited and hunted in the Estes Park region.[citation needed]
The Long Expedition, led by Stephen H. Long, for whom Longs Peak was named,[5] visited the area in 1820, though they never entered the mountains.
Joel Estes and his son stumbled across the meadows that eventually became Estes Park in 1859 while on a hunting expedition. He moved his family there in 1860 and raised cattle. He stayed only until 1866, forced out by long, harsh winters. In the next years, settlers and homesteaders staked their claims in the Estes Park region. Tourists, particularly those interested in climbing the high peaks of the region, appeared after this time.
In 1880 a small mining rush began in the Never Summer Mountains. The mining town of Lulu City was established with great fanfare and promotion by the media, particularly by Fort Collins newspapers. The ore mined, however, was low grade; by 1883 the rush went bust, and most of the residents moved on. A satellite town, Dutchtown, was abandoned by 1884.
Enos Mills, then a 14 year old boy, moved to Estes Park in 1884. He explored the mountains of the area and wrote many books and articles describing the region. He later supported the creation of Rocky Mountain National Park, and he split his time between the mountains he loved and the cities of the eastern United States, where he lobbied for the legislation to create the park. The legislation was drafted by James Grafton Rogers, a Denver lawyer and avid outdoorsman. Mills' original proposal for park boundaries went from Wyoming all the way down to the Mount Evans area, including areas such as the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Much of the land was favored for mining, logging, and other operations, however, so the proposed park was reduced to an area approximating the current park borders. The bill passed Congress and was signed by President Woodrow Wilson on January 26, 1915. A formal dedication ceremony was held on September 4, 1915 in Horseshoe Park. The park has expanded over the years, with the largest parcel — the Never Summer Range — added in 1929.
The 1920s saw a boom in building lodges and roads in the park, culminating with the construction of Trail Ridge Road between 1929 and 1933. The Civilian Conservation Corps handled several building projects during the Great Depression and remnants of their camps can be found in the park today.[citation needed]
On June 24, 2010, a wildfire burned over 1,500 acres (6.1 km2) of the park in Larimer County near Estes Park. Estes Park Fire Department believed that lightning may have started the fire.
Rocky Mountain National Park was also a place for downhill skiing. Hidden Valley (Ski Estes Park) operated between 1955 - 1991 along U.S. 34, five miles (8 km) west of Estes Park. The area had been skied by locals long before it opened as a ski area.[6]
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