- For seams in metal see Seam welding
Seam types in sewing are used to categorize according to their structure. Each is classified by the abbreviated seam type. This standardization system can be helpful when communicating construction specifications, particularly when communicating without a common language. There are four different classes of seams.
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Superimposed Seam (SS)
The superimposed seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of together. This is the one of the most recognized methods of seaming. The most basic superimposed seam is the SSa. One ply of fabric stacked upon another with thread stitching through all plies of fabric. SSa is used on many garment side seams.
Variations
- plain seam: the common way of joining fabrics
- French seams: for fine fabrics and lingerie
- double machine seam: strong, flat and decorative
Lapped Seam (LS)
This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are common when working with leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts.
Bound Seams (BS)
The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garment. A common example of this would be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam.
Flat Seam (FS)
A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which is commonly used on garments that fit closely to the body such as underwear. The purpose is to create a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garment life.
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