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Just six miles east of Chantilly is the remarkable town of Senlis, surrounded by Gallo-Roman ramparts built during the third century. It was once a powerful city in the French kingdom, hosting many important historical events such as the election of the first Capetian king, Hugues (Hugh) Capet in 987 AD, but later lost its royal-residence status to Fontainebleau, after which its château eventually fell into ruin.
Senlis and its religious community continued along quietly, constructing several of the town’s most impressive monuments such as the 10th-century Eglise St-Frambourg, the 11th-century Abbaye St-Vincent, and 12th-century Cathédral Notre-Dame, with a 255-foot-tall Gothic steeple. To the south of the old town is another set of ramparts built along the Nonette River during the 12th and 13th centuries, which designate the current city limits. In the 15th century the town was at the center of civil strife, enduring a siege by the Armagnacs in 1418 and the capture of Joan of Arc after her victorious battle in 1429. Senlis was declared a historic town in 1965 to save it from modern development. Today it’s a quiet, almost provincial town that seems to exist in a time warp. There are four museums, but the real draw is the town itself, which is so quaintly picturesque that it might be a movie set if it weren’t for the local teenagers zipping around the narrow streets on their scooters.
It’s best to explore the town’s maze of cobblestoned roads and passageways on foot, although a horse-drawn carriage ride is a great way to get an overview of the major sights. Senlis en Calèches (☎ 03 44 53 10 26, www.senlis-en-caleche.com) has four 40-minute open carriage tours per day (except Tuesday and Friday morning), April through December, leaving from the Place du Cathédral. Call in advance to reserve a spot during high season.
Your first stop should be at the Senlis Tourism Office (Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, ☎ 03 44 53 06 40), across from the Cathédral Notre-Dame, for a detailed map of the town and information on any walking tours taking place that day (usually in French).
The Cathédral Notre-Dame is the town’s most impressive sight, and one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture. Many people come to admire the cathedral’s western portal, which features the first stone representation of the Virgin’s Ascension to Heaven. Just outside this portal is the Musée de l’Hôtel de Vermandois, a museum dedicated to the history of Senlis set inside a 12th-century private residence. The Palais Episcopal (former bishop’s residence) is built into the ramparts on the south side of the cathedral, and houses the town’s Musée d’Art, with examples of Gallo-Roman ex-votos (votive offerings), medieval sculptures, and paintings from the 17th through the 20th centuries.
MUSEUMS OF SENLIS The town’s four museums are actually run as one, with the same opening hours: Monday, Thursday and Friday, 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm; Wednesday, 2 to 6pm; weekends and holidays, 11am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm. A single ticket (€4, €2 for students) is good for entrance to all four. |
The Château Royal was built by Louis VI in 1130. Although it’s in ruins today, visitors can see many beautiful sections of the chapel and tower in the Château Park (entry €1). Part of the Priory St-Maurice, originally built in the 13th century, still stands on the far end of the château, its 18th-century extension is now home to a unique hunting museum, the Museé de la Vénerie. Next door is the town’s fourth museum, the Musée des Spahis, dedicated to the history of the French Army’s North African Cavalry.
To get a good look at the old Gallo-Roman ramparts, follow the Rue de Villevert and turn left onto the Rue du Chat Haret to the Jardin du Roy (King’s Garden). Originally over three miles in circumference, 16 of the 28 original towers still stand along the 12-foot-thick walls, many incorporating the buildings constructed during the 17th and 18th centuries.
Stroll at your own pace through the old streets of the town, with its ivy-covered façades, half-timbered houses, and decoratively restored gables. The four most interesting streets in terms of old architecture are the Rue de la Treille, Rue de la Chancellerie, Rue St-Frambourg, and Rue St-Péravi. The Place Gérard de Nerval and the Rue de Beauvais have the best examples of private mansions built during the 17th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the15th-century Hôtel de Ville, on the Rue du Chatel, still in use today.
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