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Provence is full of temptation. Most of the larger towns have a good selection of stores. Although you will find chain stores (and even department stores in the biggest towns), the French are particularly fond of boutiques and specialty stores. It is worth exploring the narrow lanes of the larger towns for local designers and galleries.
Every town has at least one market day. Try to schedule your visit to take in one of the markets recommended in later chapters. Some of them are truly spectacular – in St. Rémy, the market takes over the entire town once a week, drawing vendors from throughout the region. Along the Côte d’Azur, antique markets and flea markets are especially popular. If you are planning to stay in one place for a while and cook for yourself, make sure you stock up at the local hypermarché. The selection of meats, fish, cheeses, fruit, vegetables, baked goods and interesting groceries is stunning; you can buy wine en vrac, and prices are very competitive.
Clothing & shoes – French fashion companies compete with local designers and craftspeople, especially in the bigger towns – Aix en Provence, Avignon, Arles and Nîmes – and just about everywhere along the Côte d’Azur. You may find prices on the high side, but quality is impeccable. Look, especially, for unusual clothing for children, infants and toddlers.
Antiques – Watch for the word brocantes on shop fronts if you enjoy poking around in bric-a-brac. Weekly flea markets are popular and some towns are particularly good hunting grounds. Isle sur la Sorgue has about 300 permanent dealers and Easter and August fairs that attract hundreds more.
Sporting goods – The French are particularly keen cyclists so a good selection of European cycling clothing and gear is easy to find in most of the larger towns and even many smaller ones.
Local specialties – In shops and markets look for local honey, handmade sweets, including calissons d’Aix, olive oil, olive oil-based or vegetale soaps, including Le Vrais Savon de Marseille, lavender- and neroli- (orange blossom-) scented products, hand-blown glass from Biot, carved santons, bright printed fabrics, fruits in eau de vie (strong and unsugared, a really grown-up treat).
Specialty nougat in a Provence confiserie (© Ferne Arfin)
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