Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967) is an Italian alpinist. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without oxygen but he is not following the goal of climbing all the 8000s. Moro is looking for unclimbed peaks of 7000m or more, or for first winter climbs of Pakistan 8000s (so far never summited in winter), or other rare achievements.
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Early life
Born in Bergamo (Italy) from a middle-class family, he grew up in the borough of Valtesse, and was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and also created a lively and international environment around him [1]. He started climbing the Presolana and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13, however he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the university.
Mountain climbing career
Simone Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne, near his home city, and in the Dolomites. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi [2]. In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua, achieving the first winter summit of that peak. During his career he has attempted and sometime summited a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu in 1993; Shisha Pangma and Lhotse in 1994, Kangchenjunga in 1995; Fitz Roy, Dhaulagiri and Shisha Pangma in 1996; Lhoste in 1997; Annapurna in the winter 1997; Everest again in 1998; Pik Lenin (7134), Pik Korjenevska (7105), Pik Kommunism (7495), Pik Khan Tengri (7010) and Everest in 2000; Marble Wall in winter 2001; Everest-Lhoste in 2001; Cho Oyu and Everest in 2002; Mount Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Broad Peak e Elbrus 2003, Baruntse along a new route and Anapurna in 2004; Batura and Batokshi Peak in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest descending from the top in 4 hours[citation needed].
Moro in 1996 climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. Also in 1996 he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev were lost under an avalanche. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine style and in 43 hours.
In January 2009 Simone Moro summited Makalu, the first winter ascent.
During an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores. Moro was recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi and the David Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.
Bibliography
- Simone Moro, Cometa sull'Annapurna, Corbaccio Editore
- Simone Moro, "8000 metri di vita" (ITA/ENG Version), Grafica & Arte Editore
References
- Interview, L’Eco di Bergamo, January 23, 2003
- Interview, Simone Moro dalle falesie agli 8000, PlanetMountain
External links
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