smoking jacket

A smoking jacket is an overgarment^[1] designed for the purposes of smoking tobacco, usually in the form of pipes and cigars, or for domestic leisure.

Design

The classic smoking jacket is a waist-length jacket made from velvet or silk, or both. It has a shawl collar and turn-up cuffs and toggle or button fastenings.

In the 1850s, the Gentlemen's Magazine of London defined the smoking jacket as a "kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives or large buttons."^[2]

History

In the 17th century, goods began flowing into Europe from the Americas, bringing in spices, tobacco, coffee, and silks. It became fashionable to be depicted in one's portrait wearing a silk robe de chambre, or dressing gown. One of the earliest mentions of this garment comes from Samuel Pepys, who desired to be depicted in his portrait in a silk gown but could not afford one, and so rented one:

"Thence home and eat one mouthful, and so to Hale's and there sat till almost quite dark upon working my gowne, which I hired to be drawn [in] it—an Indian gown, and I do see all the reason to expect a most excellent picture of it."—Diary, 30 March 1666^[3]

The short smoking jacket soon evolved from these silk garments. When the Crimean War during the 1850s popularized Turkish tobacco in England, smoking gained in popularity. After dinner, a gentleman might put on a smoking jacket and retreat to a den or smoking room. The jacket was intended to absorb the smoke from his cigar or pipe and protect his clothing from falling ash.^[2]

The smoking jacket remained a popular accessory into the 20th century. An editorial in the Washington Post in 1902 gave the opinion that the smoking jacket was "synonymous with comfort."^[4], while a Pennsylvania newspaper opined in 1908 that it would be "putting it mildly to say that a new House Coat or Smoking Jacket will give any man reason for elation."^[5]

In the 1950s, famous wearers included Cary Grant, Fred Astaire (who was buried in a smoking jacket), Frank Sinatra, and Dean Martin.^[2]

The modern smoking jacket

Smoking jackets have declined in popularity since the 1950s, though a minority of wearers still exists, Playboy mogul Hugh Hefner being a notable example. Cigar Aficionado stated that it was time the smoking jacket be brought back, perhaps as an "alternative type of formalwear."^[3] Smoking jackets have also been recently popularised by the television meerkat Aleksandr Orlov, who wears a smoking jacket and cravat at all times, even referencing the smoking jacket coming open as a "wardrobe malfunction."

References

See also

• Smoking cap
• Smoking room
• Dressing gown

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