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Tobermore |
Coordinates: 54°49′N 6°43′W / 54.81°N 6.71°W
| Tobermore | |
| Irish: an Tobar Mór | |
The village centre |
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| Population | 578 (2001 Census) |
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| Irish grid reference | H8396 |
| District | Magherafelt |
| County | County Londonderry |
| Country | Northern Ireland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | MAGHERAFELT |
| Postcode district | BT45 |
| Dialling code | 028 |
| Police | Northern Ireland |
| Fire | Northern Ireland |
| Ambulance | Northern Ireland |
| EU Parliament | Northern Ireland |
| UK Parliament | Mid Ulster |
| NI Assembly | Mid Ulster |
| List of places: UK • Northern Ireland • County Londonderry | |
Tobermore (locally [ˌtʌbərˈmoːr], named after the townland of Tobermore[1]) is a small village in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. It is located two and a half miles south of Maghera and five miles west of Magherafelt. Tobermore lies within the civil parish of Kilcronaghan and is part of Magherafelt District Council. It was also part of the former barony of Loughinsholin.
Tobermore has won the Best Kept Small Village award four times and the Best Kept Large Village award in 1986.[2] Most recently in September 2011, Tobermore won the Translink Ulster In Bloom village category for the third year in a row.[3][4][5]
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Tobermore is named after the townland of Tobermore which is an anglicisation of the Irish words tobar meaning "well" and mór meaning "big/great", thus Tobermore means "big/great well".[6][7] During the seventeenth century, Tobermore was also known as Tobarmore and Tubbermore, with Tubbermore being the preferred usage of the Masonic Order even to this day.[8]
Tobermore lies on the descending slope of Slieve Gallion. Prominent hills are: Calmore Hill (in Calmore), 268 feet; and Fortwilliam (in Tobermore), 200 feet high.[9]
A large oak tree called the Royal Oak grew near Calmore Castle in Tobermore.[9] Until it was destroyed in a heavy storm, the Royal Oak was said to have being so large that horsemen on horseback could not touch one another with their whips across it. From this vague description, it is conjectured that the Royal Oak was about 10 feet in diameter or 30 feet in circumference.[9] Another oak tree that once grew near Tobermore was so tall and straight that it was known as the Fishing Rod.[9] Tradition is that all of the townlands were once covered with magnificent oak trees.[9]
The Moyola River runs from west to east half a mile to the north of Tobermore village, heading through the townlands of Ballynahone Beg and Ballynahone More. In these two townlands lies Ballynahone Bog, one of the largest lowland raised bogs in Northern Ireland.[10]
The earliest reference to the actual settlement of Tobermore is in the mid-18th century of a house built in 1727 that belonged to a James Moore. At some point in the 18th century, the fair that was held at the Gort of the parish church was relocated to Tobermore, which is described as consisting of only Moore's house and a few mud huts. The development and growth of the village can be traced back to this period.[11]
Fortwilliam rath is situated between the Fortwilliam, Lisnamuck, and Maghera roads in Tobermore. The fort signified in the hill's name was built c700-1000AD.[12]
According to John O'Donovan who worked on the Ordnance Survey maps of the early nineteenth century, the fort and adjoining hill was originally known as Dunaguny, sic for Irish: Dún na Gréine, which he incorrectly translated as meaning "the sunny height".[11][13] This Anglicisation was based on a mistranscription of the old townland name for the area, which was anglicised into a variety of forms; Dounagranan (1609), Donnagraven (1613), Grenan (1622), Dunigrunan (1654), Donnagrannan (1657), and Dunnigrinane (1661) amongst other variations.[11] As Dún na Gréine it would mean "fort of the sun" or "fort of Grian", however the Department of Celtic at Queen's University Belfast state that it perhaps is originally Dún na Grianán, meaning "fort of the eminent place".[11]
The fort's modern name derives from Fort William, Scotland which was named in honour of King Willian III in 1690. This is stated as having encouraged the first proprietor of the area, Mr. Jackson, to adopt the name.[9][11] A contradictory reason mentioned by John O'Donovan is that the O'Hagans of Ballynascreen claimed it was built and named for Sir William O'Hagan, however O'Donovan discounts their claims due to other claims they make that are contrary to reality.[13]
Fortwilliam rath is presently described as a well-preserved semi-defensive high status monument, built to withstand passing raids, being relatively large at 30 meters in diameter. It is also declared a monument of regional importance giving it statutory protective status.[12] The fort is situated close to the Moyola River, close enough that it may have witnessed the arrival of a band of Vikings who travelled from the river to raid and burn Rathluric (now known as Maghera) in 831.[citation needed]
In 1736, an application was made to the Presbyterian Synod of Ulster to create a congregation in Tobermore. This initial request was denied as it would have depleted the congregation in neighbouring Maghera. In 1737 a renewed application was made with "such a strong case" put forward it was accepted by the Synod. It was requested that some of the people who would fall under the new congregation be at least eight miles from Maghera.[14]
The boundaries between the congregations of Maghera and Tobermore were to be the Moyola River, from Newforge Bridge to Corrin Bridge.[14][15] In 1743 however, nineteen families from Ballynahone, which straddles the Moyola River, were transferred from Maghera into the Tobermore congregation.[14] The fourth minister of the Tobermore congregation, the Reverend William Brown, saw the need for the formation of a new congregation in Draperstown and facilitated its development in 1835 despite meaning losing around 70 families from his Tobermore congregation.[15]
In May 1780, a "riotous mob" assembled from the neighbouring mountains, insulting the local Volunteers company, leading to an engagement.[16] Later that year, in November, a meeting was convened of the Tobermore Volunteer company, commanded by John Stevenson, at which the Rev. James Whiteside preached.[16]
Fortwilliam House, a listed building situated on Fortwilliam Hill, is named after the ancient rath located to the rear of it, Fortwilliam. It was built in 1795 by John Stevenson Esq of "The Stevensons the Linen People", who was then the only resident landlord in the district. Fortwilliam House was described by John MacCloskey in 1821 as having a commanding position and being amongst the most pleasing of buildings and the most prominent in the district.[17][18]
During the early nineteenth century, the inhabitants of Tobermore are recorded as having displayed a very unruly disposition towards the payment of their rents towards their landlord Mr. Miller of Moneymore. It is stated that the inhabitants resisted the "pounding of their cattle, executed by him, with pitchforks and sundry other primitive implements of warfare". When they found that resistance was useless they employed Mr. Costello, one of the orators of the Corn Exchange to litigate their cause at the Magherafelt sessions, but here they were also unsuccessful.[19]
A chancery lawsuit going on between Ball and Co. of Dublin and Sir George Hill operated as an obstruction to the improvement of the village as it stood upon the estate disputed with non payment of rents. The main reason for the non payment was that the tenants didn't believe they had sufficient security in their rent receipts to prevent repetition for the same year's rent. During the same period it is noted that there were no illicit distillation of alcohol and no outrages for many years in the village except for a few assaults in the street on those who came to collect the rent. After the repayment of rents resumed it was remarked that "they were so long free of rent, none of them became in the end, the least degree richer", this may have been because as it was also remarked "their rent money which if saved every year would have secured some of them a comfortable competence found its way to the whiskey shops of the village and neighbourhood".[19]
Tobermore Orange and Temperance Hall was built in 1888 by Andrew Johnston of Aghagaskin, Magherafelt.[20] It is used for band practices and also by several organisations: Orange Order lodges 131 and 684; Royal Black Preceptory lodge 390; the Tobermore Walker Club of the Apprentice Boys of Derry; and Tobermore Masonic Lodge.[20]
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The major issue in Ireland at the end of the nineteenth century and the start of the twentieth century was Irish Home Rule. In 1893 Viscount Templeton formed the first Unionist Clubs to coordinate opposition against Home Rule.[21][22] Hiram Parkes Wilkinson the son of Sir Hiram Shaw Wilkinson would found the Tobermore Unionist Club.[23]
The Rev. J. Walker Brown in 1912 released an anti-Home Rule pamphlet titled The Siege of Tobermore, where he details how best to defend Tobermore should "the enemy" march upon the village in a manner similar to that of the Siege of Derry.[24]
Tobermore also receives a mention in the third verse of the anti-Home Rule ballad titled The Union Cruiser.[25][26]
During World War I, 121 inhabitants of Tobermore, out of a population of around 350, enlisted with the Ulster Division, with the Mid Ulster Mail reporting that "This loyal little village has a war record that is perhaps unique".[27] Of those who enlisted, 24 were killed and 33 were wounded.[28]
The names of those who volunteered are preserved on a Roll of Honour painted by local man, Samuel Nelson, and was unveiled by Denis Henry, MP for South Londonderry. This Roll of Honour resides in Tobermore Orange & Temperance Hall.[27]
In Tobermore's Presbyterian graveyard lies the headstone of Bobbie Wisner, who died of natural causes at home in 1915. As he had trained and drilled with his adult comrades in the 36th Ulster Division, and was held in such high-esteem, he was buried with full military honours.[15]
In 1946, Tobermore held a World War II Victory Fete. The Constitution newspaper states: "It was the first venture of its kind held in South Derry, and it was also among the very first organised 'Victory Day' celebrations to take place in the Province. Not only that, but Tobermore's 'Victory Salute' to that great achievement which crowned the Allied arms so magnificently little over a year ago, was availed of to give practical expression to the pride which the people of South Derry generally take..."[27] The Constitution also states: "In the preparatory arrangements nothing was left undone to ensure that it would prove a resounding success and certainly Tobermore's Victory Fete will long be regarded as one of the most memorable ventures in the district."[27]
The Victory Fete was attended by Sir Ronald Ross, MP for the City and County of Londonderry, the band of the 1st Battalion Royal Ulster Rifles and the local units of the Maghera and Tobermore Army Cadet Force.[27]
Prior to the modern Troubles, during the period of the Belfast Troubles (1920–1922), there was an attempt on Wednesday, 2 April 1921, to blow up the bridge over the Moyola River outside Tobermore.[29]
During the modern Troubles, Tobermore came under an area known by some as the Murder triangle. All of the people killed in the Tobermore area were Protestant:[30]
On 7 September 1968, divisions of the Ulster Protestant Volunteers, paraded through Tobermore.[31] It consisted of eight bands and around 450 people, most of whom wore Ulster Constitution Defence Committee sashes.[31] Ian Paisley and Free Presbyterian ministers featured prominently in the parade.[31]
In October 1972, an Ulster Vanguard political rally was held in Tobermore, where Ulster Unionist Party deputy leader, John Taylor, made a speech on the use of violence stating: "We should make it clear that force means death and fighting, and whoever gets in our way, whether republicans or those sent by the British government, there would be killings".[32]
There were four bomb hoaxes in Tobermore during 2010 the most recent on 29 July 2010 and 19 August 2010, both found in the centre of the village causing a lot of traffic disruption and resulting in people being evacuated from their homes.[33][34]
On 29 July 2006, Ronald Mackie, a visitor from Scotland, was kicked and beaten before being run over and killed after a row flared during a disco held at Tobermore United Football Club. Four men were charged and two; John Richard Stewart, from Maghera, and Paul Johnston, from Castledawson, were later convicted of manslaughter.[35][36]
On 16 August 2008, over twelve hours of torrential rain caused the Moyola River to burst its banks and saw the flooding of the main Tobermore-Maghera road, the neighbouring football club buildings and pitch of Tobermore United F.C. and Tobermore Golf Driving Range.[37][38][dead link]
Dr. Adam Clarke (1762–1832) - A British Methodist theologian and celebrated Biblical scholar born in the townland of Moybeg north of Tobermore village.[8]
Alexander Carson (1776–1844) - Prominent Irish Baptist, pastor of Tobermore Baptist Church and author of the classic Baptism, Its Mode and Subjects. In dedication to Alexander Carson, his church in Tobermore, founded in 1814, was named the Carson Memorial, and a housing estate opposite it named Carson Court.
Harry Gregg MBE (born 25 October 1932) - Former Manchester United and Northern Ireland goalkeeper. Harry Gregg was born in Tobermore though grew up in Coleraine.
Sir Hiram Shaw Wilkinson, JP, DL (1840–1926) - A leading British judge and diplomat, who served throughout the Far East. In 1905 he moved with his family to the townland of Moneyshanere, outside Tobermore. He died in September 1926 in the village.[39]
Hiram Parkes Wilkinson, BCL, KC (1866–1935) - The son of Sir Hiram Shaw Wilkinson, who also served as a leading British judge and diplomat in the Far East. Hiram Parkes Wilkinson founded the Tobermore Unionist Club,[23] which later became a branch of the Ulster Volunteers,[28] which itself became part of the 36th Ulster Division in WWI. Parkes Wilkinson died in Shanghai in 1935.
Desmond Watters - A funeral director who starred in the 2004 Northern Irish movie, Mickybo and Me.[40] Having one of the only original 1970's hearses in the United Kingdom, the movie's production company contacted him for a loan of the hearse.[40] While filming, the director asked Watters for tips on how parts of the scene should be conducted, and later gave him the role of the funeral director in the movie.[40]
Every seven years the 12th of July Orange Order parade for the region is held in Tobermore, the most recent being 2005.[41] On 2005, The Twelfth in Tobermore saw the participation of the Birmingham Sons of William LOL 1003 from Birmingham, Alabama.[41] The Canadian Orange Order lodge Tobermore Crown and Bible Defenders LOL 2391, Toronto, is named after its Northern Irish counterpart, and is said to have on the top of their standard a painting of the Tobermore Church of Ireland (located at the top of Main Street). As with many other settlements in Northern Ireland, Tobermore has what is known as the Eleventh night, the night before the 12 July Orange Order celebrations. The traditional activities of the Eleventh Night include the playing of Lambeg drums, the parading of the town by the local blood and thunder band and the lighting of a bonfire.[citation needed]
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Tobermore also contains two flute bands; Tobermore Loyal F.B. and Blackhill F.B., both of which partake in the Unionist Marching Season. Previous bands include Tobermore Flute Band which was founded shortly after 1855 and was in existence until 1914 when it disbanded due to World War I.[20] It reformed after the war in 1918 and played until 1934. In 1934 the Duke of York Accordian Band was formed.[20] In 1981 an 85 year old ticket for "A Grand Ball" in connection with Tobermore Flute Band was sent to the Mid-Ulster Mail for publication.[20] This ball was held on Friday evening, 23 October 1896.[20]
Millrow Flute Band was a former Tobermore blood and thunder band, founded in the early 1970s, disbanding in 2000.[42] It was during the 70s that the blood and thunder style became popular with loyalist bands. Millrow used the style to quickly became one of the biggest and most famous loyalist bands of the 1970s/80s.[42] In 1973, Millrow F.B. released an LP and also featured on a CD titled Ulster's Greatest Bands Meet, featuring three other flute bands, where Millrow contributed more tunes to the CD than any of the other three bands did on their own.[43]
In 2011 there were nine parades or processions in Tobermore, ranging from the local flute band Tobermore Loyal, the Tobermore branch of the Walker Club of the Apprentice Boys of Derry, the Royal British Legion, the Boy's Brigade, as well as the local Orange Order lodge.[44]
Tobermore has its own Masonic Order lodge with the lodge name of Eureka and lodge number 309. At the time of its founding, Tobermore was commonly referred to as Tubbermore and lodge 309 is still referred to by the Masonic Order as being situated in Tubbermore.[45]
In 1747, a warrant was issued for the creation of a Dublin Masonic Lodge, lodge number 169. On 5 September 1765, this warrant was cancelled, however by 7 March 1811, the 169 lodge had resurfaced in Magherafelt. On 1 December 1825, the 169 lodge was removed from Magherafelt to Tobermore, where by 1838 it had moved onto Moneymore. The 169 lodge since 1895 has been situated in Belfast. [46]
Tobermore lies within the Tobermore electoral ward of Magherafelt District Council's Sperrin electoral region.[47] Tobermore ward being the only ward in Sperrin with a Protestant majority[48] is regarded as the main base of support for the sole Unionist councillor elected for Sperrin since its inception (except in 1977 when two Unionist councillors where elected[49]). Between 1985 and 2005, the sole Unionist councillor elected for Sperrin came from Tobermore; 1985-1989 W. Richardson (Ulster Unionist Party);[50] 1989-2005 R. Montgomery (UUP, Independent).[51]
Tobermore has belonged to the following constituencies: UK Parliament constituencies
(abolished and divided into Foyle and East Londonderry)
Northern Ireland Parliament constituencies
Northern Ireland Assembly constituencies
Northern Ireland local government
Tobermore is classified as a small village or hamlet.[52][53] In the 2001 Census there were 578 people living in Tobermore. In 2004 the population was declared as being around 1,250 people.[54]
On Census day (29 April 2001):
The Tobermore electoral ward covers a wide area around the village of Tobermore, which spans right up to the borders of the neighbouring settlements of Desertmartin, Draperstown, and Maghera. The population of the Tobermore ward increased by 15% from the 1991 Census figure of 1,802 to the 2001 Census figure of 2,076.[55] The Northern Ireland Neighbourhood Information Service (NINIS) in 2008 estimated the population of the ward as being 2,517 people, an increase of 21.2% on the 2001 figure.[56]
According to the NINIS area profile for the Tobermore electoral ward based on the 2001 Census:[55]
The main employment sectors in the electoral ward of Tobermore are: manufacturing (30%); construction (14%); retail (14%); health related (10%); public administration (6%) and full-time agriculture (4%).[57]
Unemployment levels in the Tobermore ward have increased over the past two years to 3.5%, however remain below that of Magherafelt District Council (4.1%), Mid-Ulster Westminister parliamentary constituency (4.5%) and the Northern Ireland average (4.9%).[57] Despite a decline in the employment domain over the past 10 years placing it within the 50% worst of all wards in Northern Ireland, Tobermore ward has the lowest level of unemployment and the highest level of self-employment in Northern Ireland.[57]
The Tobermore ward area contains 59 farms, of which 7 farms are situated in less favoured areas. The average farm size is 80 hectares, which is larger than those found in the neighbouring wards of Draperstown and Lower Glenshane, which are more mountainous.[57]
Tobermore ward has a high owner-occupier rate of 79%, which is above the Northern Ireland average of 69%. Reflecting the rurality of the area, 65% of homes are detached buildings.[57]
Prior to the stablishment of national primary schools, education lay mainly in the hands of the church. In Tobermore the Church of Ireland parish of Kilcronaghan has records of its school masters going as far back as Mr. Alex Trotter in 1686. The Parish School was originally built in the townland of Granny on the leading road between Tobermore and Draperstown.[27] Despite being a Church of Ireland Parish School, it was open to children of all denominations. In 1836, there were 70 children recorded on the roll with 28 being described as Church of Ireland, 20 Presbyterian, 2 Roman Catholic, and 20 "other denominations". Secular education such as arithmetic was taught as well as English. The local Presbyterian Church would also found its own school held in the Session House at the rear of the Presbyterian meeting house. Private session classes for adults would also be held twice a week in the Presbyterian Session House.[27]
Tobermore's first public school was established in 1817 in a room which was formerly a public house. It received an income from the London Hibernian Society as well as books published by them such as Thompson and Gough's Arithmetic and Murray's English Grammer. This school is now the present-day Tobermore Primary School. In 1826, Killytoney National School was established. It was built on the old leading road between Tobermore and Desertmartin., and has been connected to the National Board since 1833.[27] During this time, there were also another seven schools in Kilcronaghan Parish; four female schools, one of which in the townland of Brackagh Rowley (sic) was an Irish speaking school; an Irish male school; and two national schools. By 1967, Kilcronaghan Parish School had closed and was almagated with Black Hill School and Sixtowns School to become the present-day Kilross Primary School. [27]
There are two schools in the Tobermore area:
For secondary education, students from the Tobermore electoral ward mainly attend schools in Magherafelt and to a lesser degree Draperstown.[57] Tobermore ward also has the highest education performance of any ward within Magherafelt District Council, with 88.8% of students achieving 5 or more GCSEs at grades of C+ or higher in 2008. This is compared to averages of: 71.8% for Magherafelt District Council; 70.1% for Mid-Ulster parliamentary constituency; and 66.9% for Northern Ireland.[57]
Tobermore United Football Club is the local football club. They finished the 2010-11 IFA Championship 2 league season as runners-up, gaining promotion to the IFA Championship 1 league. Tobermore United are most famous for being the only club George Best played competitively for in his home country.
The Tobermore No. 11 Northern Ireland Supporters Club was founded in the latter half of 2005. Its title contains No.11 as a dedication to George Best for it was the number that he wore when he played his one-off match for Tobermore United.
The village contains only one local dart team, the Diamond Bar Dart Team. In the 2004/2005 season they won the South Derry Darts 2nd Division League and South Derry 2nd Division League Cup.
The Tobermore Golf Driving Range, was opened in 1995, and is a two tier structure containing 34 bays.
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