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Vaux-le-Vicomte

 
 
Outside Paris: Fontainebleau: History & Sightseeing: Outside Fontainebleau: Vaux-le-Vicomte

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The sprawling Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte has a bittersweet place in Ile-deFrance’s history. The Lord High Treasurer, Nicolas Fouquet, had it built in 1653 to show how successful he was, hiring the “dream team” of the period: architect Louis Le Vau, garden designer André Le Nôtre, and painter Charles Le Brun. It was the building masterpiece of the 17th century, and made many of Fouquet’s contemporaries very jealous. Days after the Sun King, Louis XIV, attended a spectacular party at Vaux-le-Vicomte, complete with fireworks and entertainment by Molière, Fouquet was arrested by d’Artagnan and imprisoned for life (on falsified evidence given by the minister Colbert). The king then had Le Nôtre, Le Brun and Le Vau build him a bigger and more spectacular version of Vaux-le-Vicomte – at Versailles. Vaux-le-Vicomte has changed hands many times over the centuries, but still remains a privately owned château.

Vaux-le-Vicomte (☎ 01 64 14 41 90, www.vaux-le-vicomte.com) is out in the middle of the countryside in Maincy, off the N36 and D215 east of Melun. The château and gardens are open from Easter through November, 11am to 6pm. Entrance is €12, €9.50 for kids under 16, free for kids under six. Be sure to ask for the free discovery guide for children. No baby strollers are allowed inside. There is a small, but very nice bookshop in the château, and a larger gift shop you have to pass through on your way out of the property (souvenirs include Vaux-le-Vicomte jams and copies of prints displayed in the château).

Guests visit the château independently, following a set itinerary to avoid getting lost. Start off with a walk through the old stables, now a museum of horse-drawn carriages brought to life with wax-figure horses and passengers. At the main entrance to the château visitors can pick up audio guides for €1.50 and books in different languages about the château. Similar to the Château de Fontainebleau, Vaux-le-Vicomte is furnished and finely decorated with statues, tapestries and paintings, with mood light ing and Renaissance-style music piped in for added atmosphere. If you’re confused by the “King’s Room,” don’t worry – the king never lived here, but had his own private quarters when he visited. Halfway through the tour you have the option of visiting the dôme for another €2 (no children under 10), where you get a panoramic view over the château’s grounds.

The 70 acres of gardens, although slightly altered from Le Nôtre’s time, still retain many of his clever tricks of perspective. Stroll the different parterres, or sections, and notice how things seem closer than they really are as you walk toward the grottos. On a clear day, standing at the far side (south) of the Grand Miroir Carré, you can see the château reflected in the water, even though it’s just over 1, 300 feet away. If you aren’t up for the 30-minute walk from one end of the garden to the other, you can rent electric golf carts (Club Cars) for up to four people, €13 for 45 minutes (only for licensed drivers at least 18 years old). Gadget-lovers can rent the GPS guide, which not only directs you to all of the good spots, but also provides commentary in English (€20 on top of the Club Car rental).

The château’s restaurant, l’Ecureuil (the Squirrel), is quite reasonable for breakfast (€3-5), lunch (carte €12, kids’ menu €6) or snacks without leaving the château. It’s self-service, with seating on a large terrace in the summer. Outside food isn’t allowed inside the château grounds, but guests can picnic in the parking area (the shady parts are past the chain link fence, in the forest). Try to avoid going into Melun, the large city next door, whose mildly interesting historic center is spoiled by the ugly tower blocks and industrial buildings surrounding it.

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French Literature Companion: Vaux-le-Vicomte
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Magnificent palace near Melun, built for Fouquet in 1656-9. Incorporating the work of the architect Le Vau, the painter Le Brun, and the landscape gardener Le Nôtre, it anticipated the splendours of Versailles, and was the scene of lavish artistic festivals at which Louis XIV was entertained before ordering Fouquet's arrest. La Fontaine, a frequent guest, sang its praises in his Fragment du songe de Vaux.

[Peter France]

Wikipedia: Vaux-le-Vicomte
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General view of the château

The Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte is a baroque French château located in Maincy, near Melun, 55 km southeast of Paris in the Seine-et-Marne département of France. It was built from 1658 to 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, Marquis de Belle Île, Viscount of Melun and Vaux, the superintendent of finances of Louis XIV.

The château was in many ways the most influential work built in Europe in the mid-17th century and the most elaborate and grand house built in France after the Château de Maisons. At Vaux-le-Vicomte, the architect Louis Le Vau, the landscape architect André le Nôtre, and the painter-decorator Charles Le Brun worked together on a large-scale project for the first time. Their collaboration marked the beginning of a new order: the magnificent manner that is associated with the "Louis XIV style" involving a system of collective work, which could be applied to the structure, its interiors and works of art and the creation of an entire landscape. The garden's use of a baroque axis that extends to infinity is an example of this style.[1]

Contents

History

Rhythmic massing of the entrance front.

Once a small château located between the royal residences of Vincennes and Fontainebleau, the estate of Vaux-le-Vicomte was purchased by Nicolas Fouquet in 1641. At that time he was an ambitious twenty-six year-old member of the Parlement of Paris. Fouquet was an avid patron of the arts and attracted many artists with the gifts and encouragements he poured on them.

When Fouquet became King Louis XIV's superintendent of finances (Minister of the Economy, Finance and Industry (France)) in 1657, he commissioned Le Vau, Le Brun and Le Nôtre to renovate his estate and garden to match his grand ambition. Fouquet’s artistic and cultivated personality subsequently brought out the best in the three.[2]

To secure the necessary grounds for the elaborate plans for Vaux-le-Vicomte’s garden and castle, Fouquet purchased and demolished three villages. The displaced villagers were then employed in the upkeep and maintenance of the gardens. It was said to have employed eighteen thousand workers and cost as much as sixteen million livres.[3]

The château and its patron became for a short time a focus for fine feasts, literature and arts. The poet La Fontaine and the playwright Molière were among the artists close to Fouquet. At the inauguration of Vaux-le-Vicomte, a Molière play was performed, along with a dinner event organized by François Vatel, and an impressive firework show.[4]

Fête and arrest

The château was lavish, refined, and dazzling to behold, but these characteristics proved tragic for its owner: the king had Fouquet arrested shortly after a famous fête that took place on 17 August 1661 where Molière's play 'Les Fâcheux' debuted.[5] The celebration had been too impressive and the superintendent's home too luxurious. Fouquet's intentions were to flatter the King: part of Vaux-le-Vicomte was actually constructed specifically for the king, but Fouquet's plan backfired. Jean-Baptiste Colbert led the king to believe that his minister's magnificence was funded by the misappropriation of public funds. Colbert, who then replaced Fouquet as superintendent of finances, arrested him. [6] Later, Voltaire was to sum up the famous fête thus: "On 17 August, at six in the evening Fouquet was the King of France: at two in the morning he was nobody." La Fontaine wrote describing the fête, and shortly afterwards penned his Elégie aux nymphes de Vaux.

After Fouquet

The gardens.

After Fouquet was arrested and imprisoned for life, and his wife exiled, Vaux-le-Vicomte was placed under sequestration. The king seized, confiscated or purchased 120 tapestries, the statues, and all the orange trees from Vaux-le-Vicomte. He then sent the team of artists (Le Vau, Le Nôtre and Le Brun) to design what would be a much larger project than Vaux-le-Vicomte, the palace and gardens of Versailles.

Madame Fouquet recovered her property ten years later and retired there with her eldest son. In 1705, after the death of her husband and son, she decided to put Vaux-le-Vicomte up for sale.[7]

For sale

The Maréchal de Villars became the new owner although he had never even set eyes on the place. In 1764, the Maréchal's son sold the estate to the Duke of Praslin, whose descendants would maintain the property for over a century. It is sometimes mistakenly reported that the château was the scene of a murder in 1847, when Charles Laure Hugues Théobald, killed his wife in her bedroom, but this did not happen at Vaux-le-Vicomte but at the Paris residence of the Duke.[8]

In 1875, after thirty years of neglect, the estate was sold to Alfred Sommier in a public auction. The château was empty, some of the outbuildings had fallen into ruin, and the famous gardens were totally overgrown. The huge task of restoration and refurbishment began under the direction of the renowned architect Gabriel-Hippolyte Destailleur. When Sommier died in 1908, the château and the gardens had recovered their original appearance. His son, Edme Sommier, and his daughter-in-law completed the task. Today, his descendants continue to work on the preservation of Vaux-le-Vicomte. The château remains a private property — owned by the comte de Vogüé — but, designated by the state as a monument historique, it welcomes visitors.[9]

Features

Entrance showing moat

Like many châteaux in the north of France, Vaux-le-Vicomte is surrounded on three sides by a rectangular moat, with the axial arrival avenue continued across a bridge to the open forecourt. The structure is symmetrical and tightly integrated, with a slightly projecting central block and end pavilions, and two returned wings that project forward. Traditional tall slate roofs emphasize each structural element with a pyramidal cap.

At the rear, the structure is dominated by the projection of its central oval salon, which rises the full height of the house, under an oval dome.

Gardens

17th-century engraving of the parterres as first laid out

The château rises on an elevated platform in the middle of the woods and marks the border between unequal spaces, each treated in a different way. This effect is more distinctive today, as the woodlands are mature, than it was in the seventeenth century when the site had been farmland, and the plantations were new.

Le Nôtre's garden was the dominant structure of the great complex, stretching nearly a mile and a half (3 km),[10] with a balanced composition of water basins and canals contained in stone curbs, fountains, gravel walks, and patterned parterres that remains more coherent than the vast display Le Nôtre was to create at Versailles.[11]

The site was naturally well-watered, with two small rivers that met in the park; the canalized bed of one forms the Grand Canal, which leads to a square basin.

Le Nôtre created a magnificent scene to be viewed from the house, using the laws of perspective. Le Notre used the natural terrain to his advantage. He placed the canal at the lowest part of the complex, thus hiding it from the main perspectival point of view.[12] Past the canal, the garden ascends a large open lawn and ends with the Hercules column added in the 19th century. Shrubberies provided a picture frame to the garden that also served as a stage for royal fêtes.[13]

Anamorphosis abscondita in the garden

Le Nôtre employed an optical illusion called anamorphosis abscondita in his garden design in order to establish decelerated perspective. This technique is a projection of forms beyond themselves. The most apparent change in this manor is of the reflecting pools. They are lengthened so as to appear closer to the viewer. From a certain point afar, the distortion created in the landscape elements is corrected and the eye perceives the elements to be closer than they actually are. This point for Vaux-le-Vicomte is at the rear of the château. Standing atop the grand staircase one begins to experience the garden with a magnificent perspectival view.[14]

From the top of the grand staircase, this gives the impression that the entire garden is revealed in one single glance. Initially, the view consists of symmetrical rows of shrubbery, avenues, fountains, statues, flowers and other pieces developed to imitate nature – these elements exemplify the Baroque desire to mold nature to fit its wishes, thus using nature to imitate nature. The centerpiece is a large reflecting pool flanked by grottos holding statues in their many niches. The grand sloping lawn is not visible until one begins to explore the garden, when the viewer is made aware of the optical elements involved and discovers that the garden is much larger than it looks. Next, a circular pool, previously seen as ovular due to foreshortening, is passed and a canal that bisects the site is revealed, as well as a lower level path. As the viewer continues on, the second pool shows itself to be square and the grottos and their niched statues become clearer. But, when one walks towards the grottos, the relationship between the pool and the grottos appears awry. The grottos are actually on a much lower level than the rest of the garden and separated by a wide canal that is over half a mile (almost 1 km) long. According to Allen Weiss, in Mirrors of Infinity, this optical effect is a result of the use of the tenth theorem of Euclid’s Optics which asserts that “the most distant parts of planes situated below the eye appear to be the most elevated.” In Fouquet’s time, interested parties could cross the canal in a boat, but walking around the canal provides a view of the woods that mark what is no longer the garden and shows the distortion of the grottos previously seen as sculptural. Once the canal and grottos have been passed, the large sloping lawn is reached and the garden is viewed from the initial viewpoint’s vanishing point, thus completing the circuit as intended by Le Nôtre. The many discoveries made as one travels through the dynamic garden contrast the static view of the garden from the château.[15]

References

External links

Coordinates: 48°33′53″N 2°42′50″E / 48.564851°N 2.714°E / 48.564851; 2.714


 
 

 

Copyrights:

Paris & Ile de France Adventure Guide. Paris & Ile de France. Copyright © 2004 by Heather Stimmler-Hall. All rights reserved.  Read more
French Literature Companion. The New Oxford Companion to Literature in French. Copyright © 1995, 2005 by Oxford University Press. All rights reserved.  Read more
Wikipedia. This article is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution/Share-Alike License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Vaux-le-Vicomte" Read more