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Adventure Guide: Vaux-le-Vicomte
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The sprawling Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte has a bittersweet place in Ile-deFrance’s history. The Lord High Treasurer, Nicolas Fouquet, had it built in 1653 to show how successful he was, hiring the “dream team” of the period: architect Louis Le Vau, garden designer André Le Nôtre, and painter Charles Le Brun. It was the building masterpiece of the 17th century, and made many of Fouquet’s contemporaries very jealous. Days after the Sun King, Louis XIV, attended a spectacular party at Vaux-le-Vicomte, complete with fireworks and entertainment by Molière, Fouquet was arrested by d’Artagnan and imprisoned for life (on falsified evidence given by the minister Colbert). The king then had Le Nôtre, Le Brun and Le Vau build him a bigger and more spectacular version of Vaux-le-Vicomte – at Versailles. Vaux-le-Vicomte has changed hands many times over the centuries, but still remains a privately owned château.

Vaux-le-Vicomte (☎ 01 64 14 41 90, www.vaux-le-vicomte.com) is out in the middle of the countryside in Maincy, off the N36 and D215 east of Melun. The château and gardens are open from Easter through November, 11am to 6pm. Entrance is €12, €9.50 for kids under 16, free for kids under six. Be sure to ask for the free discovery guide for children. No baby strollers are allowed inside. There is a small, but very nice bookshop in the château, and a larger gift shop you have to pass through on your way out of the property (souvenirs include Vaux-le-Vicomte jams and copies of prints displayed in the château).

Guests visit the château independently, following a set itinerary to avoid getting lost. Start off with a walk through the old stables, now a museum of horse-drawn carriages brought to life with wax-figure horses and passengers. At the main entrance to the château visitors can pick up audio guides for €1.50 and books in different languages about the château. Similar to the Château de Fontainebleau, Vaux-le-Vicomte is furnished and finely decorated with statues, tapestries and paintings, with mood light ing and Renaissance-style music piped in for added atmosphere. If you’re confused by the “King’s Room,” don’t worry – the king never lived here, but had his own private quarters when he visited. Halfway through the tour you have the option of visiting the dôme for another €2 (no children under 10), where you get a panoramic view over the château’s grounds.

The 70 acres of gardens, although slightly altered from Le Nôtre’s time, still retain many of his clever tricks of perspective. Stroll the different parterres, or sections, and notice how things seem closer than they really are as you walk toward the grottos. On a clear day, standing at the far side (south) of the Grand Miroir Carré, you can see the château reflected in the water, even though it’s just over 1, 300 feet away. If you aren’t up for the 30-minute walk from one end of the garden to the other, you can rent electric golf carts (Club Cars) for up to four people, €13 for 45 minutes (only for licensed drivers at least 18 years old). Gadget-lovers can rent the GPS guide, which not only directs you to all of the good spots, but also provides commentary in English (€20 on top of the Club Car rental).

The château’s restaurant, l’Ecureuil (the Squirrel), is quite reasonable for breakfast (€3-5), lunch (carte €12, kids’ menu €6) or snacks without leaving the château. It’s self-service, with seating on a large terrace in the summer. Outside food isn’t allowed inside the château grounds, but guests can picnic in the parking area (the shady parts are past the chain link fence, in the forest). Try to avoid going into Melun, the large city next door, whose mildly interesting historic center is spoiled by the ugly tower blocks and industrial buildings surrounding it.

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Magnificent palace near Melun, built for Fouquet in 1656-9. Incorporating the work of the architect Le Vau, the painter Le Brun, and the landscape gardener Le Nôtre, it anticipated the splendours of Versailles, and was the scene of lavish artistic festivals at which Louis XIV was entertained before ordering Fouquet's arrest. La Fontaine, a frequent guest, sang its praises in his Fragment du songe de Vaux.

[Peter France]

 
Wikipedia: Vaux-le-Vicomte
General view of the château
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General view of the château

The Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte is a Classical French chateau located in Maincy, near Melun, 55 km southeast of Paris in the Seine-et-Marne département of France. It was built from 1658 to 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, Marquis de Belle-Isle (Belle-Ile-en-Mer), Viscount of Melun and Vaux, the superintendent of finances of Louis XIV.

History

Once a small château located between the royal residences of Vincennes and Château de Fontainebleau, the estate of Vaux-le-Vicomte was purchased by Nicolas Fouquet in 1641. at that time he was an ambitious twenty-six year-old member of the Parlement of Paris,

Fifteen years later, Fouquet was King Louis XIV's superintendent of finances (finance minister) and construction began on what was then the finest château and garden in France. This achievement was brought about through the collaboration of the three men of genius whom Fouquet had chosen for the task: the architect Louis Le Vau, the painter-decorator Charles Le Brun and the landscape architect André Le Nôtre.

The château and its patron became for a short time a great center of fine feasts, literature and arts. The poet La Fontaine and the playwright Molière were among the artists close to Fouquet. In the inauguration of Fouquet's Vaux-le-Vicomte, a Molière play was performed, along with a dinner event, organized by François Vatel, and showing an impressive firework show.

The château was lavish, refined, and dazzling to behold, but rich in hidden drama. Indeed, the King had Fouquet arrested shortly after a famous fête that took place on August 17, 1661, with Molière's play 'Les Fâcheux'. The celebration had been too impressive and the superintendent's home too luxurious, and Jean-Baptiste Colbert had pushed the king to believe that his minister's magnificence was funded by the misappropriation of public funds. Fouquet was arrested by Colbert, who would replace him as superintendent of finances. Later Voltaire was to sum up the famous fête thus: "On 17 August, at six in the evening Fouquet was the King of France: at two in the morning he was nobody." La Fontaine wrote describing the fête, and shortly afterwards penned his Elégie aux nymphes de Vaux.

The gardens.
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The gardens.

After Nicolas Fouquet was arrested and imprisoned for life, and his wife exiled, Vaux-le-Vicomte was placed under sequestration. The King seized, confiscated, and occasionally purchased, 120 tapestries, the statues, and all the orange trees. He then sent the team of artists (Le Vau, Le Nôtre and Le Brun) to design what would be a much larger project than Vaux-le-vicomte: Versailles, which would be changed sequentially by the greatest architects, like Jules Hardouin Mansart and Ange-Jacques Gabriel, increasing its size, until the French Revolution.

Madame Fouquet recovered her property ten years later and retired there with her eldest son. After her husband's death in 1680, her son died too. In 1705 she decided to put Vaux-le-Vicomte up for sale.

The Maréchal de Villars became the new owner although he had never even set eyes on the place. In 1764 the Maréchal's son sold the estate to the Duke of Praslin, whose descendants were to maintain the property for over a century. The château was the scene of a vicious murder in the 1840s, when the current duc de Choiseul-Praslin killed his wife in her bedroom there. After a thirty-year period of neglect, it was put up for sale.

In 1875, Alfred Sommier acquired Vaux-le-Vicomte at a public auction. The château was empty, some of the outbuildings had fallen into ruin, and the famous gardens were totally overgrown. The huge task of restoration and refurbishment began under the direction of the renowned architect Gabriel-Hippolyte Destailleur. When Sommier died in 1908, the château and the gardens had recovered their original appearance. His son, Edme Sommier, and his daughter-in-law completed the task. Today, his descendants continue to work on the preservation of Vaux-le-Vicomte. The château remains a private property— owned by the comte de Vogüé— but, named by the state a monument historique, it welcomes visitors.

Features

Rhythmic massing of the entrance front.
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Rhythmic massing of the entrance front.

Vaux-le-Vicomte was in many ways the most influential work built in Europe in the mid-17th century, the finest house in France built after the Château de Maisons. Here, together with the architect Louis Le Vau, the landscape architect André le Nôtre, and the painter-decorator Charles Le Brun worked together on a large-scale project for the first time. Their collaboration marked the beginning of a new order: the magnificent manner that is associated with the "Louis XIV style" involving a system of collective work, which could be applied to the structure, its interiors and works of art and the creation of an entire landscape. Vaux-le-Vicomte is one of Europe's finest construction of its kind.

Like many châteaux in the north of France, Vaux is surrounded on three sides by a rectangular moat, with the axial arrival avenue continued across a bridge to the open forecourt. The structure is symmetrical and tightly integrated, with a slightly projecting central block and end pavillions, with two returned wings that project forward. Traditional tall slate roofs emphasize each structural element with a pyramidal cap.

At the rear, the structure is dominated by the projection of its central oval salon which rises the full height of the house, under an oval dome.

17th-century engraving of the parterres as first laid out
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17th-century engraving of the parterres as first laid out

The château rises on an elevated platform in the middle of the woods and marks the border between unequal spaces, treated in a different way. This effect is more distinctive today, with matured woodlands, than it was in the seventeenth century; the site had been farmland, and the plantations were new.

Le Nôtre's garden was the dominant structure of the great complex, with a balanced composition of water basins and canals contained in stone curbs, fountains, gravel walks, and patterned parterres that remains more coherent than the vast display Le Nôtre was to create at Versailles.

The site, unlike Versailles, was naturally well-watered, with two small rivers that met in the park; the canalized bed of one forms the Grand Canal.


Popular Culture

  • Vaux le Vicomte was used for location filming for the 1979 James Bond movie Moonraker. It served as Hugo Drax's residence in California.

July 7, 2007. Eva Longoria (The 'Desperate Housewives' actress) and Tony Parker (basketball star) were married in the Parisian Eglise Saint-Germain l'Auxerrois church, located near the famous Louvre Museum. It is this same church that once served the French royal families. After the religious ceremony, the newly weds and their guests were chartered by several red buses to travel the 20 miles to the Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte. (Located in Maincy, France just south of Paris) Eva and Tony booked the 17 century castle for two days. (one hour to rent the Chateau is about $45,000.) The guests enjoyed dinner then partied the night away. Notably, OK magazine paid $2 million for the exclusive pictures.

September 3. 2006. Catherine Wall and Darren Aschaffenburg of New Orleans, Louisiana were married in the garden of Bassin de la Couronne (The Fountain of the Crown) part of the astonishing gardens of the famous Château de Vaux le Vicomte. After the ceremony over 2000 candles then illuminated the entire gardens. The 200 guests enjoyed a most extravagant dinner inside the Château’s Grand Salon. The Grand Salon is long considered one of the most stunning and dramatic rooms of the majestic Château. The band Les Cigales performed through out the night and the evening was concluded with a magnificent firework display over the gardens. The wedding was attended by both the Comte and Comtess de Vogüé, the family to which the Château belongs

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Copyrights:

Adventure Guide. Paris & Ile de France. Copyright © 2004 by Heather Stimmler-Hall. All rights reserved.  Read more
French Literature Companion. The New Oxford Companion to Literature in French. Copyright © 1995, 2005 by Oxford University Press. All rights reserved.  Read more
Wikipedia. This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Vaux-le-Vicomte" Read more

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