Zitácuaro

Zitácuaro (formally: Heroica Zitácuaro) is a city in the Mexican state of Michoacán. The city serves as the administrative centre for the surrounding municipality of the same name, which lies at the extreme eastern side of Michoacán and borders on the adjacent state of México. The city reported a population of 78,821 in the 2005 census, while the municipality had a population of 136,491. The city is the fifth-largest in the state, as is the municipality. The municipality has an area of 498 km² (192.3 sq mi).

History

An indigenous settlement was founded on the site of modern-day Zitácuaro, possibly as early as the 12th century by Otomis and Mazahuas (an Otomi ceremonial centre still stands in San Felipe de los Alzati, 9 km to the north of the municipal seat). In the mid-14th century, Tarascans led by Yquingari conquered the region.

At the time of the Spanish conquest, the area stood on the border between the lands of the Tarascan league and those of the Aztec empire. The locals are reported to have fought alongside the Aztecs, with whom they were allied, in the failed defence of Tenochtitlan. Following this defeat, Franciscan friars established a parish church with the name of San Juan Tzitácuaro, and a monastery was founded in the early 18th century.

Fountain on the zócalo and municipal palace

Following Mexico's Declaration of Independence in September 1810, the area around Zitácuaro joined the insurgent cause under the leadership of Benedicto López, a local criollo farmer. In response to López's cutting off of the royal road between Mexico City and Valladolid, the viceroy sent a regiment of loyalist troops to put down the rebellion. This regiment was repulsed on 20 February 1811 and defeated on 22 May, and its captain, Juan Bautista de la Torre, was taken prisoner and killed by indigenous militia-men. Later that summer, Benedicto López surrendered control of the city to Ignacio López Rayón, who set up in Zitácuaro on 21 August 1811 the Suprema Junta Nacional Americana (the "Supreme American National Council"), recognised as the first attempt by the insurgents to establish an independent government. This outraged the royalist forces in Mexico City, which attacked the city and, on 12 January 1812, regained control, sacked it, and summarily razed it to the ground.

The 1812 incident was the first burning of Zitácuaro. The second took place on 1 April 1855, at the hands of troops loyal to Gen. Antonio López de Santa Anna during the Revolution of Ayutla, in response to the city's expressed support for Gen. Juan Álvarez. The city was burnt to the ground on a third occasion on 15 April 1865 by French Imperial troops in reprisal for the Republicans' victory at Tacámbaro some days earlier.

In recognition of the turbulent events of the previous half-century and the city's heroism, on 20 April 1868 President Benito Juárez issued a decree whereby San Juan Zitácuaro would henceforth be known by the name of "Heroica Zitácuaro".

Geography

Zitácuaro stands at 19°26′N, 100°22′W, in the northeast corner of Michoacán, some 150 km east of state capital Morelia, at an elevation of 1940 metres above sea level. The municipality covers a total of 498 km² and is drained by the Río Zitácuaro, the Río San Andrés, and the Río San Juan Viejo. The surrounding terrain is mostly the pine-covered mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental; to the north of Zitácuaro are the famed Mexican wintering grounds of the monarch butterfly.

In 1995 the municipality reported a total population of 130,500 inhabitants, accounting for 3.1% of the state's total population. Of these, some 3,740 people spoke an indigenous language (primarily Otomi, Mazahua, and Tarascan). Approximately 75,000 lived in the municipal seat.

Zitácuaro is an important intermediate point on Federal Highway 15, which runs from Mexico City to Morelia (following the route of the colonial royal road). Another road branches off in the city en route for Huetamo, Ciudad Altamirano, and the Pacific Ocean coast. A railways leads northwards to Maravatío (nowadays used only for freight).

Other towns and villages in the municipality: Aputzio de Juárez, Crescencio Morales, Curungueo, San Felipe de los Alzati, and Zirahuato.

Mural inside the Palacio municipal (City Hall)

Sights

Zitácuaro is overlooked by the Cerrito de la Independencia, a hill located within the city limits crowned with a monument to Mexican Independence. The municipal palace walls are decorated with striking murals that narrate the city's history. In addition to the Otomi ruins at San Felipe de los Alzati, there are pre-Hispanic archaeological sites at Ziráhuato and Zacapendo.

Tourism

The Cacique and the Pelón

The two most important summits of the mountainous landscape that surround the municipality of Zitácuaro are the hills named the Cacique and the Pelón. Its names are derived from a colonial legend that tell us that an overseer named Alonso de Peñaranda y Bracomentes tried to know the secret about the place where the Chief Cuanícuti leader of the Purépechas that founded Zitácuaro keep their treasures taking advantage of the hate that his wife Cumanda had for him. Cumanda and the Spanish were giving him poisons trying to kill the Chief. But Cuanícuti knew about the intentions of the agent to whom indians nicknamed the Pelón due to his baldness. Cuanícuti making believed to the Pelón and Cumanda that he was drugged took them inside a cave. The aborigens were ordered to explode the cave when the three were inside. In this way the egotistical Spanish, the “Pelón” and the traitor Cumanda only found the three dead with the brave Cuanícuti. With the death of the three, the secret of the treasure cave was lost forever.

The cacique hill takes its name in honor of Cuanícuti that means “hunter”. The ancient hill of the butterflies was called “el Pelón”. With these names the rivalry of these two figures was perpetuated forever.

The summits of the Cacique Hill of Zitácuaro and the Pelón of the State of Mexico are frequently climbed by lovers of mountain climbing. They encamp several days enjoying the beautiful landscape that is perceived from these heights.

References

• Link to tables of population data from Census of 2005 INEGI: Instituto Nacional de Estadística, Geografía e Informática

• Michoacán Enciclopedia de los Municipios de México

External links

Zitácuaro, seen from the Cerrito de la Independencia

• Ayuntamiento de Zitácuaro Official website
• Zitácuaro municipality
• Tourism in the Zitácuaro region

Coordinates: 19°24′N, 100°22′W

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