04 Yamaha bruin 350 2X4 How do you remove front wheel bearings?
Pull off the hub for the front and pry off the bearing. Then you put the new bearing in the shaft. Put the hub back and done. Told by MUDandDIRT owner
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you need a 3 point puller ..can buy it just about anywhere and will make your life a lot easier then trying to pry it off
Yamaha 350 Big Bear 4x4 that has a tapping sound in the left front wheel area sometimes it squeaks any idea what this may be?
if you go to any parts store they will have ATV oils well select the one that says 4 stroke i have the same bike and i get the best out of it with valvoline.
the front bearings are sealed as part of the entire hub. bad bearing? you will need to swap in a new hub and they are not cheap You need to disconnect the Caliper and Remove …the rotors then replace the whole assembly You can check out this guide with pictures http://tumblr.com/xkt4kk64o
Remove the front wheels. . Remove the center locknut. Discard the old locknut. . Remove the caliper assembly from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the brake lines. Support the… caliper with a piece of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose at any time. Remove the brake disc. . Remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor, if equipped. . Remove the tie rod end cotter pin and nut. . Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle assembly. . Remove the outer lower arm-to-ball joint mounting bolt and nut. . Remove the lower arm from the knuckle assembly. . Remove the knuckle assembly free of the halfshaft, using a plastic mallet. . Remove the knuckle assembly. . Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws. . Remove the inner oil seal from the knuckle, if equipped. . Remove the front wheel hub from the knuckle assembly, using an appropriate hub-puller. . Remove the bearing inner race from the front wheel hub. NOTE If the bearing inner race still remains on the hub assembly, grind a section of the bearing inner race until about 0.02 in. (0.50mm) remains. Remove with a chisel.. Remove the retaining ring from within the knuckle. . Remove the front wheel bearing from the knuckle, using a wheel bearing removal tool to press it out. . Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing. . To install: . Install the new wheel bearing into the knuckle assembly, using the press tools. . Install the wheel bearing retaining ring. . Install the front wheel hub, using a press and the correct bearing driver. . Install a new oil seal using the appropriate seal driver and a hammer. Tap the oil seal in evenly until the special tool contacts the steering knuckle. Coat the lip of the oil seal with grease. . Install the bearing/hub and knuckle assembly in place. Loosely tighten the knuckle to shock absorber bolt. . Install the lower arm ball joint to the knuckle. Tighten the nut to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm) for Sephia and Spectra, to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm) for Rio or to 74-88 ft. lbs. (100-120 Nm) for Optima. . Install the halfshaft to the knuckle assembly. . Install the wheel speed sensor, if equipped with ABS and tighten the bolts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm) . Install the tie rod end to the knuckle and tighten the nut to 22-32 ft. lbs. (29-41 Nm) for Rio, Sephia and Spectra or to 18-25 ft. lbs. (24-34 Nm) for Optima. . Install a new cotter pin. . Install a new wheel hub locknut. Tighten the nut to 155-200 ft. lbs. (214-279 Nm) for 1.8L Sephia and Spectra, to 116-174 ft. lbs. (157-235 Nm) for 2002-2005 Rio, 144-188 (200-260 Nm) for 2006 Rio and 2.0L Spectra or to 148-192 ft. lbs. (200-260 Nm) for Optima. . Check the end-play of the wheel bearing by installing a dial indicator against the wheel hub and tire to move the brake disc back and forth. There should be no more than 0.002 in. (0.05mm) of free-play present. . Stake the locknut into place by bending it into the groove. . Install the brake caliper(s) and tighten the bolts to 33-50 ft. lbs. (45-67 Nm) . Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. . With the vehicle lowered check all of the bolts and retighten as necessary. . Inspect the front end alignment and adjust as is necessary.
there should be a plug/baffle in the back of the exaust take it out you will gain somw horse power. then take the air box lid off. the next step would be to get a k and n air …cleaner and jet kit. after that you will have to get into internal mods.
if gas in leaking out of the over flow tube connected to bottom of carb, the needle and seat needs to be replaced. unless the float has been messed with and is bent.
ighten the lock nut at the center of the hub.
To find the crank timing mark, you must remove the pull rope housing. It is held by 4 bolts. Once it is removed you will see a plastic plug that can be removed with a flat hea…d screwdriver. As for the camshaft mark. it can be found after removing the cam sproket cover. You will see the mark at the top center of the hole. The cam sproket has a line on it that must be aligned with mark at top of cam sproket hole. The line can be difficult to see until you remove cam sproket bolt.
behind the left front tire tucked inside the frame
its 2.5 quarts.
The type of oil being used in a Yamaha 350 series ATV depends onthe temperature where the vehicle is kept. For colder areas 5w-40oil is preferred, but for hotter temperatures …10w-40 is better.
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take off the tire/wheel to take off the rotor undue the pin, back out the nut, set rotor aside, pull out the bearing then knock out the bearing race clean everything well pack… new bearing with high quality heat resistant greas put in new race put in new bearing slide rotor into place carefully seating all parts together as you slowly tighten big nut. spin rotor and tighten nut til spininng stops then back off slightly til spin is easy to start. put pin back in. put back together and drive for 10-20 miles. disassemble and re do tighten sequence.
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left frame rail below engine at front behind lower control arm