Without knowing the car's maintenance and repair history or any of the operating conditions to which it has been exposed, a full and complete diagnosis is not possible. That said, the first things that need to be looked are always the obvious ones: Spark plugs--- are they fouled? Fuel filter--- is it plugged? Vacuum hoses--- are they loose, cracked, disconnected? Has the engine been overheated? Did the problem happen "all at once"; or, did it develop over time? Are there any other problems with the car? Is the battery staying "up"? When you step on the accelerator, you are putting the engine under a load; and, since it IS under a load, it requires more fuel and tighter sealing of the valves than it does at idle due to the increase in demand upon it. In addition, the spark plugs need to be able to furnish spark under the added cylinder pressure. If any of these things is interfered with, a "miss" can occur. Addressing the above items: Spark from an older plug may not be as stout as that provided by one that is new; and, if a plug has worn to the point at which its gap is too wide, the added cylinder pressures will prevent it from firing and igniting the fuel/air mix. This conceivably would not occur at idle. If the fuel filter has not been replaced in a while, then the flow through it could be restricted, causing the engine to "starve" each time your engine's computer demanded more fuel through the injectors in response to change in throttle position. If the flow through the filter is insufficient to allow proper build-up of the pressure required for the injectors to do their job, the engine will "cut-out on tip-in", leaving a "lean miss". If the wiring at the throttle-body is frayed, disconnected, loose, or corroded, or is missing the rubber seals which prevent moisture from entering, you may be encountering a condition having to do with the computer not reading the true position of the throttle(closed, open partially, wide open). When you step on the gas, the computer is supposed to see it, and give a "goose" to the injectors as a response---- kinda like the old carbureted accelerator pump used to do in times past. If that signal isn't making it to the PCM, then when you open up the inside of the engine to outside air by opening the throttle, there's no extra gas to the mix, and the car will "miss", "stumble", and possibly "die". If the engine has been overheated, a miss could be made prominent by opening the throttle due to a compression leak between cylinders--- let's hope it's not that involved. If a vacuum leak, due to missing, cracked, unplugged, or misrouted vacuum hoses is present, then the engine's computer will not necessarily be able to compensate for it--- it won't be detected. Result? No demand, No real problem; Under load, No performance. It's always best to remember that most of the problems encountered with engines and systems are basic, simple, and can be seen when an observant eye is directed toward them. Believe it or not, the "nuts-and-bolts" still rule, even when computers are involved. And last but not least on the list, consider the electrical system: Is the battery staying charged? If a problem is occurring in the charging system, battery voltage could be low; and, if the battery is not staying charged, that could point to a shorted diode in the alternator, which will allow ac voltage upon the circuitry where the computer is attempting to read dc potentials. The result can be system snafu. Like I said at first, a complete diagnosis is not possible without putting the car through the customary rigors of a test-drive and history examination and customer conference, added to an inspection; but, directing you toward the things a good mechanic would look for first may just lead you to that "aha!" that you seek! rotsa ruck, jb
The Buick Park Avenue Started In 1991
Use your right foot and apply pressure to the brake pedal.
Depends on the engine the Park Avenue had in it.
show a diagram of a buick park avenue crankshaft sensor
Yes, with another 1997 Buick Park Avenue.
what is the down side of the 1997 buick park avenue
Yes i have 22x8.5 on a 97 Buick park avenue
I am locked out of my Buick park avenue and have a slim Jim but don't know how to use it
I need to know how do i replace a haeter core on a 1994 buick park avenue?
how do i tighten the steering column on a 89 buick park avenue electra
what is the wiring position for the ignition module on a 1990 Buick Park Avenue?
$28000 for a new buick
Buick Century Buick Electra Buick Lacrosse Buick LeSabre Buick Lucerne Buick Park Avenue Buick Regal Buick Riviera Buick Roadmaster Buick Skylark
Just drive it until it falls off, since it's its 1990 Buick. jk, i really dont know.
It says Buick Ultra... = Supercharged
The Buick Park Avenue nameplate was first used in 1977 on a model of Buick Electra, but did not exist as a standalone model until 1991, when it replaced the Electra.
= How do you reset change oil soon light on 1993 buick park avenue? =
the cars are basically identical but the park avenue is better built with other wanted fetures most standered including leather seats buick park avenues throught 1997 thourgh 2005 the park avenue is about 12" longer than the lesabre i would u buy a park avenue any day over the leasbre both are great cars but for the money the buick park avenue is the way to go .
i need wiring diagram for 92 buick lesabre
How do you uninstall a starter for a 1997 Buick Park Avenue
The blue book value of a 2000 buick park avenue is any where from 5,208 to 5,833 this highly varies the higher you go in the years as well but I only went with 2000 only