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Without knowing the car's maintenance and repair history or any of the operating conditions to which it has been exposed, a full and complete diagnosis is not possible. That said, the first things that need to be looked are always the obvious ones: Spark plugs--- are they fouled? Fuel filter--- is it plugged? Vacuum hoses--- are they loose, cracked, disconnected? Has the engine been overheated? Did the problem happen "all at once"; or, did it develop over time? Are there any other problems with the car? Is the battery staying "up"? When you step on the accelerator, you are putting the engine under a load; and, since it IS under a load, it requires more fuel and tighter sealing of the valves than it does at idle due to the increase in demand upon it. In addition, the spark plugs need to be able to furnish spark under the added cylinder pressure. If any of these things is interfered with, a "miss" can occur. Addressing the above items: Spark from an older plug may not be as stout as that provided by one that is new; and, if a plug has worn to the point at which its gap is too wide, the added cylinder pressures will prevent it from firing and igniting the fuel/air mix. This conceivably would not occur at idle. If the fuel filter has not been replaced in a while, then the flow through it could be restricted, causing the engine to "starve" each time your engine's computer demanded more fuel through the injectors in response to change in throttle position. If the flow through the filter is insufficient to allow proper build-up of the pressure required for the injectors to do their job, the engine will "cut-out on tip-in", leaving a "lean miss". If the wiring at the throttle-body is frayed, disconnected, loose, or corroded, or is missing the rubber seals which prevent moisture from entering, you may be encountering a condition having to do with the computer not reading the true position of the throttle(closed, open partially, wide open). When you step on the gas, the computer is supposed to see it, and give a "goose" to the injectors as a response---- kinda like the old carbureted accelerator pump used to do in times past. If that signal isn't making it to the PCM, then when you open up the inside of the engine to outside air by opening the throttle, there's no extra gas to the mix, and the car will "miss", "stumble", and possibly "die". If the engine has been overheated, a miss could be made prominent by opening the throttle due to a compression leak between cylinders--- let's hope it's not that involved. If a vacuum leak, due to missing, cracked, unplugged, or misrouted vacuum hoses is present, then the engine's computer will not necessarily be able to compensate for it--- it won't be detected. Result? No demand, No real problem; Under load, No performance. It's always best to remember that most of the problems encountered with engines and systems are basic, simple, and can be seen when an observant eye is directed toward them. Believe it or not, the "nuts-and-bolts" still rule, even when computers are involved. And last but not least on the list, consider the electrical system: Is the battery staying charged? If a problem is occurring in the charging system, battery voltage could be low; and, if the battery is not staying charged, that could point to a shorted diode in the alternator, which will allow ac voltage upon the circuitry where the computer is attempting to read dc potentials. The result can be system snafu. Like I said at first, a complete diagnosis is not possible without putting the car through the customary rigors of a test-drive and history examination and customer conference, added to an inspection; but, directing you toward the things a good mechanic would look for first may just lead you to that "aha!" that you seek! rotsa ruck, jb

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โˆ™ 2006-03-20 21:02:20
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Q: 1990 buick park avenue runs great while in park and in drive until you apply the gas then it misses really bad?
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