Any time a vehicle will not start I always recommend that you go back to the basics. Many people assume that because there is a computer in the vehicle that whenever it won't start it's GOT to be something related to the computer. Actually, that's not right. Usually it's something basic, you just need to know how to work around the computer controls.If an engine has the 3 necessary components, Fuel, compression and ignition, it WILL run. Fuel must be delivered in the right amount, not too much or it will flood, compression must be at the proper level, typically somewhere around 100 PSI, and ignition spark must be hot enough and delivered in the right timing.First, did it run BEFORE you replaced the parts? If so, failing to run now is probably related to something that you did, most likely the cap or rotor. If it DID run before, check to make sure that the plug wires are connected right. Pull the sparkplug in the #1 cylinder, cover the sparkplug hole with your finger or thumb, then slowly turn the engine by hand until you start to feel compression build. Then continue to turn the engine by hand until you see the #1TDC mark line up on the dampener pulley. Now look at the rotor. It should be pointed directly at the #1 plug connection on the distributor. If not, you've found the problem.Post on my message board if you'd like to discuss this further.
Broken rotor button.
Would this cause the car not to start If the EGR VALVE is bad
Assuming you mean distributor cap and rotor, yes, if you mixed up the firing order.
Any of the following: -Idle speed needs adjustment -bad PCV valve -worn out spark plugs or plug wires -worn out distributor & rotor -leak in vacuum lines -bad fast idle thermovalve -Bad oxygen sensor If you have an older car with over 70,000 miles on it, I would start by replacing the PCV valve, spark plugs & wires, distributor and rotor.
No, smoking at start up would probably be defective valve seals.
I would try distibutor cap and rotor.
clean your egr valve if you have already changed the fuel filter in the frame.. it is easier to clean the egr valve than pay the almost $200 dollar new one..my blazer would run fine but when you would stop, the thing wanted to start missing.. then stall...
Worn valve guides? New answer : Worn valve guides WILL cause some what of a rough idle and engine would smoke at all times. If engine smokes at start up only and then quites then your problem would be the VALVE SEALS.
Start and stall out, possibly. Not start at all, not likely.
I would start checking spark plugs and wires, if they are good I would then check the distributor cap and rotor bug. I would start checking spark plugs and wires, if they are good I would then check the distributor cap and rotor bug.
It could be A few things, I would start with the distributor cap and rotor, The rotor can get A pin-hole in it and let it create A shorted firing route.,,, If this is good, Then crank the engine with the dist. cap removed, See if the rotor is turning, If not you have a broken timing chain or cam. ,, If it turns, Test the igition modul. If this does not help, You can contact me through 'My personal message board'. Good luck,.
start with dist cap and rotor
It is normal for caliper brakes to maintain very slight contact between the pads and the rotor. If that isn't what you're referring to, about the only things that would prevent the caliper from releasing the rotor would be either a seized caliper piston or possibly a bad proportioning valve.
Check your PCV valve. This valve helps relieve pressure within the engine. It is usually located somewhere on the valve cover. How it works is when the pressure within the engine builds up, the valve opens to relieve some of the pressure so it does no push against internal parts which can cause gasket failure. If your PCV valve is not opening properly the first thing to go would be the vacuum hoses. Just replace the PCV valve, it is cheap and easy, good place to start.
That would require fixing / replaceing the VALVE SEALS in the heads.
The torque from the main rotor would cause it to spin uncontrollably.
A capacitor fed winding on a single phase motor produces a phase shifted magnetic field that induces a starting torque in the rotor. Once sufficient RPM is achieved a centripetal switch disengages the start capacitor and, depending on design, switches in a run winding/capacitor, and running conditions are maintained from there. This is necessary as, without the extra winding, the induced current/magnetic field in the rotor would only be 180 degrees out of phase with respect to the field, and the rotor would not turn. Once the rotor is turning, a constant "slip" is maintained which keeps the rotor turning.
if you would buy some thing made by the us you would not have to even worry about it.
Warped brake rotor.Warped brake rotor.
It could be your EGR valve.
I have a 2007 Nissan sentra and it did the same thing especially when pressing on accelerator. Had to replace my intake valve timing control solenoid bc of long oil changes.
i would start with the pomp see if it spins or motor is burn, next the check valve, and solenoid valve.
Locked rotor current is the amount of current a motor would draw if you energize the motor and the rotor (the spinning shaft) doesn't spin.
The proportioning valve adjusts the amount of fluid pressure between the front brakes and rear brakes, I would say the answer is yes.
The motor would not start rotating. The motor will just hum and the rotor will be stationary. If you can get the rotor to start turning the motor will still run on its run winding.I have a cement mixer that has a motor with a burnt out start winding. All I have to do is turn the barrel and the motor will start turning over. Without the start winding you have a choice of which way the motor will turn. If I turn the mixer barrel the opposite direction, the barrel will turn that way until I turn the unit off.