You need an oscilloscope. I use a vantage, it costs like $3K.
now the crank sensor only cost like $40, but have to remove the harmonic balancer to change it. Now their is the delimna mechanics always face.
Prs al the butens an it wul wark. =^.^=
Autozone tests sensors for free. Also, check the cam magnet and make sure it's not damaged. added.. CAM sensor is pretty easy to replace; it's just under the water pump pulley. I replaced that myself. CRankshaft sensor will also trigger code 17 and 18 (same as CAM sensor), which the book says is CAM sensor; there is no CRANK sensor code. I had that happen on my 92 PA ultra, and it would stall consistently on the same stretch of road after 45 minutes. Since replacing the CAM sensor didn't fix it, I had the garage replace the CRANK sensor after it died completely. Works fine now. Crank sensor is not as easy; they will have to remove the main drive pulley on the end of the crankshaft to get to it.
Have you checked for spark after you replaced the pack? if not i would check the crank sensor. ANSWER I would check to see if you have fuel pressure before I would check the crank sensor which I think would throw a code. Spray a little throttle body cleaner into the engine and then crank it. Does it start? IF so you have a fuel problem and it is NOT SPARK. Just turn the key on and go back to see if you hear the fuel pump running. I just wonder why you are looking for spark unless you did some tests for it.
there is a evap tank solenoid mounted on top of fuel tank. at certain times the ecm pressure tests the fuel tank and hoses to make sure you are not losing fuel vapors to atmosphere if you fill your car with fuel with engine running it can set this code. also
replace the valvcovers you need to pull the motor you can buy a crank kit for this jeep,if it is knocking this means that a bearing is bad on the crank this needs to be replaced,both the crank and all the bearings
It has more than one. The one behind the converter is a downstream sensor and it tests the exhaust after it has passed through the converter. There is also at least one in front of the converter.
Sounds like a loose wire somewhere. Check the battery connections then other ends of the wires.
There are a few tests that could pinpoint your trouble. My guess is that your crankshaft position sensor is on the fritz (which will cause the vehicle's ignition system to not produce any spark when it is malfunctioning). If you have the v-6 engine, the crankshaft position sensor will be on the back of the block with a 2-wire harness plugged into it. This wire harness will run to the front of the engine and plug in to the ignition module. Don't forget to check the integrity of the entire length of wire running between the crank sensor and the ignition module. This is a common problem area on your type of vehicle. Good luck, and get ready to get greasy, and swear a lot.
The camshaft position sensor is an integral part of the distributor. If codes and tests indicate that it is faulty, the distributor must be replaced. Last I looked a cheap one was $1,500.
Harley Davidson rates it at 90 HP at the crank. Most Dyno Tests show that stock bikes will make between 72 and 80HP at the rear wheel depending on the Dyno
AnswerCould be an o2 sensor like it was on mine i had a similar problem on my 98 and it was a siphon problem with my fuel pump. replaced fuel pump and solved my problem. its not as cheap as an o2 sensor though.It is not unusual for this style of fuel injection to crank over longer than other engines before starting. The reason is the computer has to synchronize it's timing with the crankshaft position and camshaft position sensors. But if it is taking progressively more time to crank before starting a failure is probably immanent. Simple things to do first, basic tune up, and have the condition of the systems checked by doing a compression and fuel pump pressure test. Doing these simple tests first may get you started in the right direction.
What tests? There were no tests.