hey dude this is tatum.. try ur switch for your ignition .. some system involving ignition to solenoid ciruit system which involves starter engagment when key is inserted to ignition switch Outside chance that the flexplate maybe damaged or the starter is not "Shimmed" correctly and not allowing the starter toothed wheel to disengage. In some cases the starter may need to be "Shimmed" to move it away from the flexplate so that the gear does not get jammed. In any case, if you find the problem please let us know 8-) TommyTrouble
Try the ignition switch.or the ignition module located usually near distributer
Check the leads to the starter and also if the battery has a full charge (should be around 12.4 volts). There may be a short in the wiring, fried starter solenoid or a wiring issue.
You have a connection problem either at the battery cables or at the starter solenoid. It is possible that the starter solenoid is weak. Start with the battery first and work toward the starter. If the cables are at all so-so replace them. Let me know if this helps you. Mark
I'd check the battery cables, both at the battery and where they connect to the solenoid and starter. Make sure to check the ground cable too. It should have a solid ground to the engine before the starter will work properly. it very well might be the teeth on your flywheel.. You have to pull flywheel cover where starter goes agnist the block and transmission and look to see if the teeth are ground down a lil bit..
You may have a loose or corroded ground connection. Not just the battery ground but the engine to chassis ground. You may also have a bad battery cable. If you see swelling on any part of the cable, replace it. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Did you replace the starter solenoid with the starter, or is it a separate item? If the solenoid is separate from the starter, it is probably bad. It is unlikely that the ignition switch is bad, but possible.
IF you are jumping the right set of terminals, then: The solenoid is failing to 'push' the starter (pinion) into place and engaging the flywheel. The solenoid needs to be replaced, although the pinion and plunger is most likely worn: and replacing the whole starter assembly is normally not that much more expensive. Please note however that you could be jumping the power to the starter only thereby bypassing the solenoid. Solenoid: ---- P ------ R -------- S ----- X ----- P = Power or Battery cable X = Starter motor R = Run position (Starter bypass coil power) S = (Purple wire) Start from Key Be sure you are jumping power to the START wire, not the X starter terminal.
sounds like the starter is bad. its underneath on the passanger side where the engine meets the trans. Raise the vehicle. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the solenoid wire and battery cable on the starter solenoid. Remove the 2 starter bolts. Remove the starter motor noticing the position of the shim between the starter and the engine if equipped. (my 95 Z28 didn't have one) Installation is reverse of removal. Be sure to replace spacer shim correctly if it has one.
Check for loose or corroded battery cables Check trigger wire on starter (small wire) for corrosion (common problem) Bad starter solenoid
Loose or corroded battery cable? Loose cable at starter? Bad starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad or misadjusted clutch safety switch?
Check for high resistance in the wiring to the solenoid, and in the battery cables. A weak battery can also cause this. If one battery is good, and the other is a little weak, the truck can turn over at normal speed, while the fuel solenoid doesn't move.
If you get a click you need to replace the solenoid. if you get nothing at all replace the solenoid and buy a starter. install the solenoid first and try to start the car if it still doesn't start let it sit and then start it. try to start right after you turn it on with a jump start it might be the battery. If that doesn't work it will more than likely be the starter, so you have to install the starter. When installing the new starter you must still keep the new solenoid in. This should work I have a 96 Eddie Bauer bronco. Before you start anything check the fuses and the battery. the reason you get the solenoid and then check the battery again is because there might be a drain in the solenoid that doesn't allow the battery to hold a charge. If none of these things work turn off all the lights in your garage and have a friend try to start the car and watch the cap and rotor for electrical arc, this will also not allow the battery to charge quickly. If all else fails try the ignition.
If it won't turn over you may want to check Battery cables for tightness and/or corrosion Starter solenoid Neutral or clutch safety switch
I'd first check your battery cable connections at the battery. Try to see if you can spin the cable connections and if they spin, tighten them up with a 7/16" wrench or whatever fits. Second, I'd check the ground cable that is connected to the chassis. Make sure it's tight and there is no rust under the cable terminal at the frame. Third might be a bad starter solenoid on the starter or remote solenoid. Tighten all wiring at the starter and alternator, maybe something is loose and giving you the intermittent issue. Good Luck.
get a starter switch from your parts store so you can hook dierctly to the starter when your under the hood sinc its dierect if it starts it most likely loose contact if it doesn't start check g.n.d.(-) and try 1s more
suspect starter relay locate relay and replace temp solution run wire straight to battery from starter make sure in neutral when starting
You have to turn it (motor) to start it even with spark if it's not a stick so you can push start and you jumped starter wires at the solenoid and it didn't crank, starter is no good. you can replace it yourself. I am assuming battery is good. Warning jumping the starter to test it on many cars will activate pats-;passive anti theft. If your theft light flashes with a key on, ECU has disabled it and you will need a locksmith.
Try changing the starter.
is the battery fully charged?
Ignition switch going bad, corroded or loose battery cables, starter relay or starter going bad.
discharged or inoperative battery inoperative starter poor connection between starter and [ground or] battery positive no 12V+ to starter S terminal (possibly bad ignition switch or aftermarket alarm)
Check the battery cables. Especially the neg cable all the way down under to the starter and ground.
Check your fuel filter, this may be dirty.
I have jumped the power to the solenoid before with a screw driver or something to test them out (beware this will cause some sparks where safety glasses). Also if you can remove the starter some parts houses will test the starter for you. If it works you can rule out the starter as your problem. Also, remove and clean both battery connections. I had the same problem and I found the positive connection had some corrosion in the threads of the side post battery. I was unable to see it until I removed the post. It was just enough to where the truck wouldn't start.
Check the burned out fuse able link. I had the same problem the battery light remained on when driving and killed my battery. i replaced the alternator the battery and new negative and positive wires but still had the battery light to come on. i also reground the negative terminal cause the corner broke off the battery tray due to rust. So after changing all that, i found out that the only other thing it could be was the fuse able link. Its the wire that goes from your alternator to the starter solenoid. The wire starts out red from your alternator and goes all the way to the starter solenoid about 6 inches before you get to the starter solenoid the wire changes colors to a light blue color then connects to the solenoid. That blue wire is your problem. That has a fuse inside of it and it usually melts or gets fried. 2 ways to fix it, find another wire like that or you can simply strait wire it with the existing wire you got already or go by new 8-10 gauge wire about 1ft and a half and 2 new terminals and strait wire it, and every thing will be ok i did it to mine 45,000 miles ago and have had no problem Trust me i went through the head ache of changing everything thing in the car far as the charging system goes. When it comes to the charging system there are really only a few components. 1 The Battery. 2 The alternator. 3 Solenoid /or starter solenoid.4 Positive and negative wires. 5 A good Ground 6. Fuse able Link If the link is broken nothing will work and the alternator will not read on machine and have no power to it.