The top (or leading) pin bolt uses the plastic bushing, the bottom bolt should be solid. Here is a snipet from a manual.
NOTE: The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
NOTE: It is important to note which caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If the boots are damaged, they must be replaced.
The caliper bolts are the long bolts that go horizontally from one side of the mounting bracket, through the top and bottom of the caliper, to the other side of the mounting bracket(if the caliper is supported inside and outside of the rotor, which all the ones I've seen are). The caliper slides on the caliper bolts to adjust to the rotorand usually has expanding dust boots around the boltson both sides of the caliper tokeep the sliding area clean.
The caliper mounting bracket, in 99% of vehicles, needs to be unbolted from the axle before it will release the rotor. There are usually only two bolts holding it. Sometimes you can remove the top bolt, loosen the bottom and swing the mounting bracket out of the way. Sometimes you have to take both bolts completely out and dismount the bracket.
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# Raise and support vehicle. # Remove the wheel and tire assemblies. # Compress the caliper # Remove the caliper slide pin bolts NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper assembly. # Remove the caliper by tilting the top up and off the caliper adapter # Support and hang the caliper. # Remove the inboard brake pad (1) from the caliper # Remove the outboard brake pad (2) from the caliper # Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and caliper piston. Bottom piston in the caliper bore with C-clamp. # Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle spring guide # Lubricate anti-rattle spring guides with Mopar brake grease. # Install anti-rattle spring guides NOTE:Anti-rattle spring guides are not interchangeable. # Install inboard brake pad to the caliper # Install outboard brake pad to the caliper # Tilt the top of the caliper over rotor and under adapter. Then push the bottom of the caliper down onto the adapter # Install caliper to the rotor and then install the caliper slide pin bolts, Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle, # Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pistons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal. # Top off master cylinder fluid level.
FRONT BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT Jack up vehicle and remove the wheel. before removing the caliper , be sure to depress the piston into the bottom of its bore in the caliper with a large C- clamp to make room for the new pads. look behind the caliper and you should see two bolts holding the caliper on. remove the bolts, "DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE LINE", the caliper should pull free from the caliper mounting braket. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE HOSE". Separate the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket." Remove the steel slippers from the upper and lower parts of the caliper mounting bracket. After doing the above You should be done with removal to install follow the above steps in reverse. The rear brakes are the same as the front brakes to replace. However the rear brake disc is also a disc / drum that houses the parking brake pads. The parking brake pads are behind the brake disc. you will have to pull the disc off to get to these brake pads. The removal of the parking brake pads requires more time and is a bit more difficult to replace. I would inspect the parking brake pads before removal and replace them only if needed.
I just did this the other day om ny 2004 silverado. Once the tires are off, remove the brake calipers. There are two "star bolts" on the rear of the caliper (top and bottom). Remove these bolts using a T-55 socket bit. Then lift the caliper up to remove it. you might have to move it back and forth to get it out of place since the pistons are compressed against the brake bads. After it is loose, you have to support the caliper so you don't put pressure on the brake lines. I used a coathanger to support it so it doesn't dangle. Just wrap the coathanger around the caliper and tie it to something underneath so it doesn't fall. Then you need to remove the caliper mounting bracket. There are 2 bolts holding this on (top and bottom). They are 18mm bolts and they are on VERY tight. I got them off using an impact wrench and hammering on an 18mm large open end wrench. Make sure you use the "box" side of the open end wrench so you don't strip the bolts. Once those are off, the caliper mounting bracket will come off and you can remove the rotor. The hardest part of this job was taking off those 18mm caliper mounting bracket bolts. Hope this helps.
on the caliper take out the bottom bolt, there are two bolts that the caliper slides on and only undo the bottom one. Then the caliper will swing up and allow access to the disc pads . You need to get a G-clamp and push the piston in the caliper back( or else it wont fit back down). put it back together and pump the brakes to set the brake piston b4 you drive or the first time you go to brake you wont have any.
The Rear Caliper Bottom Bolt head size is 12 mm. The Top bolt is enclosed only making it a slide bolt therefore you cant and really have no need to remove it. So the only bolt you should remove is the bottom 12mm head bolt. Then there will be a 14mm bolt that will hold the Emergency Brake Cable Bracket to the Caliper. Loosen this bolt and remove the Emergency Brake Cable Bracket from the Caliper. Then pry the bottom of the caliper up off the disc. This will allow you to swing the caliper up then push the caliper back to slide the caliper off the enclosed bolt slide at the top of the caliper. This will allow access to the inside and outside pads to remove them and allow you to press and rotate the Piston (Push and Twist-in Pistons) back into the Caliper with the right Brake Caliper Compression tool. The rear two Caliper Bracket bolt head sizes are 18mm. You must remove the Caliper bracket in order to remove the rear brake disc. The Front Brake Caliper Bolt is a 3/8" Allen head bolt. There will be two bolts holding the front calipers to the Spindle. The Front calipers are standard push-in Pistons.
the piston must be screwed (turned) in to bottom out to accept new brake pads this is due to the integrated park brake mechanism built into caliper. there is a special tool that screws piston it can be done with water pump (channel lock )plyrs dont damage dust seal once job is done pull and release park brake handle about 15 time to self adjust excess space between pads and rotors g if caliper has excessive paly in the mounting pins buy a rebuilt loaded caliper from auto parts store cheaper then dealer
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