I'm not a mechanic, but if this is a 4.0 L SOHC V6 engine, they have 3 timing chains. A main timing chain from the crankshaft to a "jackshaft" which is located where the camshaft is on the 4.0 L OHV engine. A 2nd timing chain from the jackshaft to the driver's side cylinder head at the front of the engine, and a 3rd timing chain from the jackshaft to the passenger side cylinder head at the back of the engine. When you said you have no compression on one side, I wonder if something has happened to one of your secondary timing chains ?
Most likely cause is a burnt out inlet valve. You need to do a compression check.
If engine is losing compression it is likely the rings are worn and need replacing. The valves are likely leaking too and need replacing.
Most likely worn engine mounts or transmission mount.
If you have loss of compression then a full rebuild of the engine is most likely needed.
fuel problem most likely; remember, 3 things for an internal engine to run: fuel, fire, compression
what;s the likely problem expected on a 4runner engine of 310000 km milleage?
Possibly, but not likely. Have a compression test run.
Water in engine. Head gasket most likely. no aceleration because no compression.
Broken cam or timing chain is the most likely cause.
Try another browser, to see whether the problem is only with Internet Explorer. If you have problems with several browsers - and only for some specific sites - then the problem is likely in the website.
Between 120 and 150 psi probably most likely 120ish
thats a little on the worn engine side of compression,but that in itself would not keep it from starting....most likely a fuel or spark problem. you can check fuel pressure with a screw in guage from autozone,and check spark with an inline spark tester from autozone.
I have the same problem. I was told by a mechanic it is most likely a freeze plug, but it is so tight back there I can't see anything. I have been driving it for 6 months just adding antifreeze. But its getting worst. Has anyone got this fixed? Is it fixable without pulling the engine?
IF the problem is with control over heat and AC, most likely the problem is with the blend door operation. It is a common failure on the 02-08 Explorer. Check heatertreater.net for diagnostics, pictures, and a repair solution.
The light should come on when you turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If it does not, then more likely than not, the bulb has burned out or been removed. If you just bought the vehicle, know that removing the bulb to hide an emissions problem is illegal.
It could be a few things. Mostly likely a leaking head gasket, worn out piston, piston rings or cylinder.
Most likely a problem in the emission control system Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
Most likely the problem is with the Pressure Sensor in the engine block.
If the check engine line is flashing then that means there is a real problem and you should have it looked at, But if the light is on and NOT flashing the it is most likely a problem with the emmisions system and most likely an oxygen sensor.
Verification on your question: Do head gaskets make cars lose pressure....hmmmmm, I think what your asking is.... Does a head gasket make an engine lose compression. - Correct?The simple answer is yes, it does, but it is by design. The amount the head gasket lowers the compression (or pressure) is built into the overall design of the engine. For instance, if you were to assemble the head to the block, without a gasket, you would raise the compression (pressure) slightly and potentially cause damage to the engine. This would most likely become apparent when you burn out a valve or burn a hole in the top of a piston.In general terms: - The greater the compression ratio, the bigger the explosion in the bore and the more heat that is produced.
I suspect multiple problems. The blank or intermittent odometer problem is a common problem in the 2002 Ford Explorer. The ABS and airbag lights are most likely a different problem than the odometer problem. For complete information on the intermittent odometer problem, see http://www.odometer-repair.com .
You've probably warped the head and therefore the motor is unable to achieve any compression due to the air escaping out. If you're lucky, it's a machining and replace head gasket; if unlucky, you've done your motor. You've most likely got a blown head gasket. This would have caused overheating as the problem began and worsened, and the no start/lack of compression now. along with head gasket check timing more than likely jumped time if the belt is still good this causes no compression
Briggs and Stratton does not release specific compression values. Anything above 120 psi should be just fine, around 90-100 and you're most likely due for a rebuild. A better test is a leakdown test, with can help in determining where compression is being lost.
Well the only way your car will work is if it has compression your silenders haft to have the compression to go back down and make power if you are working on a car you MUST chack your compression and make sheer that you enuf if you don't something is wrong ( head gasket or a crack block more then likely ) if you tell us what motor you have we can tell you how much you need
You will eventually blow a gasket or worse destroy a major seal. Also you can make the engine knock if you don't put high enough octane in, the higher the compression usually means the higher the octane you need, unless you have high compression from a supercharger or turbo, then it is not as necessary. But if you have knocking it means the gasoline engine is running like a diesel, which can destroy an engine if it happens for long enough. In a circumstance like that major components break, and not just seals and gaskets, you would likely have to replace the whole engine. If you decide to run high compression you must put heavier duty components in an engine. Good luck.