Found that the 12 volt supply coming from the DRL was dead- pin B2. I jumpered B1 to B2 and now my problem is solved with the following observations: 1. when turning the key to off (i.e. shutting off the engine), the high-beam lights and the dash indication will come one for a second or so before extinquishing; 2. DRL still work as advertised; and 3. normal low and high beam operation.
Low beams are burned out.
a short in one of the park lights
Make sure that the switch on the top of the steering column in turned off. That controls the running lights on the car. FYI that switch is basically used if you are pulled over somewhere and don't need help but yet you need your lights on and still need to take your keys.
Location 30 ; 10A fuse; Labeled "Parking lamps" in manual. Just replaced mine and my tail lights, dashboard lights, parking lights, and the dinging that goes off when the lights are on all came back. I had to remove the CD Storage box (push two tabs on the inside inwards and pull box out), pulled out #30 fuse (not #32 as I saw on other posts), saw that the wire was broken, put in a new one, tested the parking lights, and all good. Hope this helps. -Swen
You are less likely to get pulled over when it is on the passenger side, but you can still get pulled over for it.
It is your fault.
Yes, connected to the parking brake assembly is a little black lever, which when pulled will manually release the parking brake.
please explain how the headlight comes out I removed wing nut and pulled white tabs and still nothing?
Open the hood and then examine the top of the headlight assembly and locate the two pins that can be pulled up and out of the assembly. Then rotate the headlight Assembly out of the front of the grille and change the headlight bulb...reverse the process
If you are driving at night with no lights, yes, you can be pulled over.
It sounds like the ground for the parking/turn signal circuit is bad on the damaged side. You mentioned sufficient power to all lights, I assume this applies to the parking/turn signals too. If this is not the case check the main fuse box for disconnected, pulled-out connections. Hope this helps,
Could possibly be a dimmer switch for the Hi Beam lights
It would most likely be a SX or MXC. It could however be a EXC that someone has pulled the headlight and tailight off of.
Turn Off Your Automatic Headlight Dimmer Then you can manually Change the High Beams yourself.....
On my 1971 Mustang I just pulled the headlight switch on the dash all the way out
the complete headlight assembly has to come out to replace the bulbs, there are plastic pull pins that look like large horseshoes that have to be pulled for the assembly to come out.
There can be several possible causes for instrument panel lights and tail lights to not work. I'm not sure I can recall all of them at the moment but will provide what I can. On most vehicles, the multiposition headlight switch controls [turns ON/OFF] the headlights, front "parking" lights, tail lights, side marker lights, instrument panel lights, and the "dome" and interior courtesy lights. Additionally, on most vehicles, when the the parking and/or headlights are ON, rotation of the headlight switch knob controls the brightness of the instrument lights, and rotated fully counterclockwise turns ON the dome and courtesy lights. Your question mentions the tail lights and the instrument panel lights being non-functional, but not whether or not the headlights, front parking lights, and side marker lights are working. Possible causes of these lights not working could include: 1. A failed fuse, but only if all the other lights you did not mention are also not working. If the fuse is good and all the OTHER lights controlled by the headlight switch are working, then the problem IS "downstream of the headlight switch. 2. A ground wire or wires not properly connected, or having an accumulation of corrosion at the connection interface. 3. A cut or broken wire in the part of the circuit which serves the non-working lights. 4. A connector or connectiors which have come apart, or have an accumulation of corrosion on their contact surfaces. 5. A defective headlight switch, or connector to that switch. There are probably some other causes which I'v left out, but these are the most commonly occuring. The procedure to correct this problem is to first visually check out [via tracing the wires leaving the headlight switch to the non-working lights] all the items I've discussed, looking for anything visually "not normal." It that produces no reason for the failure, then my next step would be to physically disconnect, and reconnect all connectors in the non-working circuit, carefully examining all of the metal contacts within each connector for signs of corrosion [remove if found] or signs of overheating [discoloration]. Either of these could cause the described problem. During this trace and examine process, also look for wires which have been cut, broken, or pulled apart. If all of these checks fail to find any cause, my next step would be to remove the wiring harness connector to the headlight switch, and remove the switch from the instrument panel for inspection and testing. First inspect the switch body and connectors for signs of corrosion or overheating [discoloration]. If corrosion is present, clean the terminal blades on the switch, and the contacts inside the harness connector. If the switch body looks "cooked" it is probably ruined and requires replacement. If the body looks OK, but the terminals look cooked, then with a meter or test light, cycle the switch through all its positions, checking for current flow. If the terminals for the non-working lights does not indicate current flow, then the contact points inside the switch are probably burned and the switch needs to be replaced. Troubleshooting is never an easy process, and the cramped area behind the instrument panel just makes the job more difficult, but it is necessary to check all wires, connectors,fuses, lamp sockets, and grounds. Good luck. j3h.
in the engine compartment in the front above the lights you will see two black tabs. you have to pull them up and then the light pods can be pulled out from the front. then just twist out the light socket and pull out the bulb. you should replace both at the same time
Removal of the water pump on a 1995 Ford Aerostar V6 3.0 non AWD begins by removing the drive belts and accessories. The water pump can then be unbolted and pulled from the engine.
Parking Brake Theory doesn't work, I even tried unplugging the fuse that is supposed to control this but that didnt appear to work either? As far as I know you can't. They are on for safety reasons. There is a switch that is conected to a hand brake. When brake is engaged (pulled up)lights should go off.
On my 1998 Grand Am, the sensor was hidden in the center defroster vent. I pulled out the vent grill, and found it. It's a cylinder about the size of a roll of 35mm film, with a flange and small hole where the 'eye' is located. I pulled it up above the grill so it could see better, and not turn on the lights whenever the sun went behind a cloud!
You didn't say what year so here goes. On older models you need to remove the plastc grill piece to access it. On newer models there is a L shaped pin on the top of the headlight that when pulled up releases the headlight assembly.
Not really, mine got caught on a bump stop in a parking lot. I pulled it off afterward.