The Engine is still there, I assure you, When the light flashes, it means there is a condition present that is damaging to the Catalytic converter. Too much raw fuel is getting through to the converter, from a likely MIS-FIRE. The Engine has a MISS (mis-fire). A mis-fire is that the fuel is not getting burned for what ever reason- bad wire, bad plug, low compression, too much fuel entering the combustion chambers, etc. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights
"Heat" Warning LightI'm not familiar or experienced with your vehicle, but I suspect that it is warning you that something is wrong with the engine cooling system, and the engine is overheating.This is not good. As soon as possible have someone who knows what he/she is doing to check out your vehicle's engine cooling system!!!!!The fact that the engine is missing indicates the the engine temperature is WAY too high, and to continue to run the engine will result in RUINING THE ENGINE!!!!!When i checked it out in day light, it was actually two separate problems. 1. One spark plug lead had come loose on the distribitor causing the missing. 2. The Heat problem was a faulty sensor on the Catalytic converter on the exhaust.Unplug the sensor and the light will go off if it is.
A flashing check engine light indicates that you have problem that will damage the catalytic converter. You should have the check engine light checked very quick/tomorrow,if not sooner. converters cost over $800.00. A flashing check engine light indicates that you have problem that will damage the catalytic converter. You should have the check engine light checked very quick/tomorrow,if not sooner. converters cost over $800.00.
There a number of things depending on the age of the engine. The sparkplugs of an older engine could be poorly gapped, fouled or just need to be replaced. The problem could also be the distributor cap could also be the problem. In a newer car the problem could be injecters or any number of sensers. In any car the problem could be wires.
Three things can keep an engine from running, a faulty ignition source, lack of fuel or insufficient compression. If all three are present in the proper percentage, an engine MUST operate. Your problem is to find out which of the three is missing, then you can solve the problem of how to repair the engine.
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