The bulk of the value on a collectible Baseball bat relies on the player endorsement. without a player endorsement the value will rely on vintage bat features like a mushroom knob, decal, or ornamental engraving. You did not mention if the bat was endorsed. Besides condition there are many factors that will effect the price more or less. Baseball bats closest to the players size and model number that was used during his playing days will sell at a higher price. Decal bats are very desirable and could sell in the $1,000.'s
The dating of the bat is one of the most important factors on value along with condition. Hillerich & Bradsby Co. Louisville Slugger has used different oval center brands in their history. By identifying the center label, trade marks, and patens you can narrow down the year to what era the bat was made.
For example: a bat made between 1916 - 1929 will have HILLERERICH & BRADSBY Co in the center label as opposed to J.F. HILLERERICH & SON Co as the bats made before. TRADE MARK REG US PAT OFF appears below the oval and changed to TRADE MARK REG in 1930.
"Bone Rubbed" is a process to harden the surface of the bat and appears on bats made in the 1920s The "Powerized"process was first used, and patented by the Hillerich & Bradsby Co. in 1931 and has pat. pending beneath the stamp. Powerized and Bone Rubbed" logo is used during the 1932 season. In 1933 and 1934 you will see it stamped "Powerized and Oil Tempered" which usually is a very light heat foil type print. in 1935 until present, they go with just "Powerized"
I will leave a link below to help you date your Louisville Slugger bat.
125W Louisville Slugger baseball BatThe "125" refers to the grade of wood used to make the bat. "125" is the highest grade and is reserved for all pro level bats. The "125" bats are also used for the highest quality store model bats. Sometimes they will put the initials of the player that endorsed the bat after the "125" for example 125BR would be a Babe Ruth bat but I believe that the "125W" is a softball model bat, and I do not know exactly what the "W" stands for.
55 N 125 W is Bulkley-Nechako C, British Columbia, Canada.
actually nothing its off the coast of Oregon now the closest city is new port
AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
A Black Edition hexa-core (6 core) processor running at 3.2 GHz, 125W TDP, and Socket AM3.
It varies depending on clock speed, chipset.. but the maximum for it would be about 125w of power. That would be the Windsor chipset.
galaxy pegasus w105f, midnight bull 125w , burn fireblaze 135 ms
You can use 120v 10a 125w cable projectors 110-240v power in India.
It's compatible with any AM2+ or AM3 motherboard.
Pretty much any AMD or Intel 4 core processor would be good for gaming but the more you are willing to pay for a processor the better the processor. But if you are looking just for the best PC processors then here they are:For Intel it is a Intel Core i7-3970X Extreme Edition Sandy Bridge-E 3.5GHz (4.0GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 150W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73970XFor AMD it is a AMD FX-8350 Vishera 4.0GHz (4.2GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8350FRHKBOX
No, It does not. It runs on thermoelectricity (Pasquier effect). The heat is genereted by the degradation of 4.8Kg of a Plutonium 238 Doped Plutonium Oxyde Element. The thermoelectric elements are PbTe/TAGS type (google it!) Theoricaly, the rover should have enough electricity to maintain it's basic systems alive for at least 14 years --- the mission is focussed on 1 martian year though (around 2 years on earth). So many things can go wrong out there! At the beginning of the mission, it should produce 125W (nominal) of electricity from 2000W of generated heat... The excess heat will be transfered to a thermofluid and used to maintain stable temperature of internal components during the cold martian nights. Power should be around 100W after 14 years of operation. - Normand
Not enough information to give a simple answer.. however, a Kenwood TS-440S or S/AT either one should put out about 100-110 watts of RF power. The best way to determine this is to transmit a CW tone into a dummy load and read the power out on a known "good" wattmeter. If you are seeing about 100 watts, you are doing good! There are no tweeks to actually get the power up inside the radio, and any that you try will over drive the solid state finals and they will burn up. Some new hams think that since 100w is good, 125w or 150w has got to be better, however in reality, and from my experience it does take about 500w to get at least 1 S unit better on the receiving station. That said, trying to get over 100w on a radio that is designed to only do 100w it both fruitless and risky for the circuits. If you are not getting 100w (up to 90w is good enough), but are much less, say 75w, you may want to find a repair facility that can examine the rig for repairs. If you really need more power (QRO), I suggest running an RF amplifier using the TS-440S as the exciter, or driver. Good luck, Andrew