Only if the ballast is a multi tap ballast.:
Even if you could install a 120V ballast, or tap it to 120V with the existing one, Current may become an issue. To run the 400W light (sodium?) Now instead of the .833 amp range it's more like 3.33 amps. Supply wiring would have to be able to handle that. Those types of lights are often on long runs to building and grounds lights, parking lots, etc. Using 480 saves a lot on wiring costs.
"Compact fluorescent lamps" (or, more commonly CFLs) sold direct to consumers for installation in a standard screw-in socket have an integral ballast built into the base. The ballast converts and controls the line voltage from the socket to properly drive the fluorescent lamp. Ballasts are generally fairly complex circuitry. All fluorescent lamps require a ballast. However, most lamps used commercially ("ordinary fluorescent lamps") do not have the ballasts built into them; rather, the ballasts are hidden somewhere in the fixture.
Ballast tanks aren't necessarily a specific item - they're designed specifically for the vessel involved, and custom built. Main Ballast Tanks are nothing more than open air spaces between the outer hull and inner hull of a submarine; they're normally full of air on the surface, and a hydraulically actuated valve (which can be manually operated as well if needed) opens to release the air through a vent at the top of the tank, letting water in through open grates in the bottom of the space. Variable Ballast Tanks (Trim Ballast Tanks) are simply water tanks of custom design and manufacture for each individual boat. They're tied to pumps that can rapidly fill or drain each tank as needed for increasing ballast, or leveling the boat. Anything that holds water and can be connected to a pump which can fill and drain it can be used as a ballast tank.
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