Not that I ever heard of. If fact, that is the recommended method of parking your vehicle, in gear, with emergency brake on. Now if you were to park the car for several years without moving it, the parts would probably rust together, but the clutch would still be good.
Depend on whether it is automatic or manual and if you had the car in gear. If automatic, your parking pin in the transmission may have broken. If manual, yes something in the clutch or gears may be damaged. IMO, if your park is still working, then no damage has been done. Pushing the car 6ft would not damage either the gears or clutch on a manual, and the only damage that could be done to an A/T would be to break the Park Pall.
If it is an automatic transmission, make sure the car is started if it is in Park or Neutral, and press the brake pedal in as far as it can go. If the car is stuck in a gear other than neutral or park, DO NOT START IT. It will damage your engine and your transmission. Call a tow truck. If it is a manual, press in the break pedal and the clutch pedal fully, and try to put it in gear. If it doesn't go, then put it in neutral, release the clutch, press in the clutch again, and try to put it in gear. If none of this works, have your transmission serviced.
Assuming it is not driver error there are two possibilities. Either the clutch is slipping under higher torque delivery and causing the vehicle to buck, or the transmission is damaged internally. If it is a clutch issue it's only a matter of time until the clutch fails, but make sure there is no oil or brake fluid on the clutch disk - this will damage the new part as well. The easiest way to tell if it is internal damage is to look for debris in the fluid - try draining the fluid through a coffee filter. A little metal shaving discharge is normal, but any larger particles indicate a problem.
Are you asking about transmission problems that someone hit you while in park? Or that you didnt have money to fix it and asked the insurance company to help? If its the first scenario, you will need proof that the damage done to your transmission was a direct result from that accident. If its the second one, your insurance doesnt have to pay anything, as that's what warranties are for, not insurance policies.
If you're talking about the pressure plate and clutch plate, you need to remove the transfer case and transmission. If you have a substantial enough transmission jack, you can remove the t-case, transmission, and bell housing all as one unit. If not, you'll need to remove each component individually. Once you've got the bell housing off, you replace the clutch plate and pressure plate. While you're at it, you should replace the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, as well, and inspect your clutch fork for damage, and replace if needed. Once you put the clutch plate and pressure plate back on, it's absolutely imperative that you torque them to specification. Once all that's done, you put the bell housing, transmission, and t-case back on, then reconnect your driveshafts.
A clutch brake is a circular disc with a friction surface that is splined to the input shaft of the transmission between the release bearing and transmission. Its purpose is to slow and/or stop the input shaft from turning to allow initial forward or reverse gear engagement in non-synchronized transmissions. It helps prevent premature wear of the internal transmission parts during those initial shifts. To understand this in more detail, let's consider what is going on when a heavy truck transmission is shifted from neutral to first or reverse. When a truck is in neutral and the clutch pedal is not depressed, the master clutch is engaged. This causes power from the engine to drive the transmission input shaft, resulting in rotation of some shafts and gears in the transmission. However, the gears aren't engaged or meshed in a way that transmits power to the drive shaft. In other words, parts of the transmission are just idling but spinning. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it moves the release or throw-out bearing toward the transmission and away from the flywheel. This unloads the springs in the master clutch, releasing the master clutch and decoupling the flywheel from the transmission output shaft. Without the engine driving the transmission input shaft, the spinning shafts and gears in the transmission start to coast down. However, it would take a long time for these rotating masses to slow down, because they have a lot of mass and the only thing that is slowing them is gear and bearing drag. If everything is properly adjusted, the master clutch is opened or released when the pedal is depressed about half way or so. If there's no clutch-brake, and you then shift into first or reverse, the rotation of gears in the transmission won't all be the same on a non-synchronized transmission, and then the gears can clash or make a "thunk" as gears that are spinning are meshed with gears that are not spinning. Over time, this can wear or even damage the gears. When a clutch-brake is installed, pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor pulls the release bearing even further away from the master clutch toward the transmission, which eventually squeezes the clutch-brake disc between the release bearing and the transmission case. Friction between these parts then slows and soon stops the transmission input shaft from rotating. Now, gears can be moved into mesh in the transmission and there might be a bit of noise because the teeth aren't perfectly aligned, but they won't be rotating. If you time everything just right, you'll make the shift from neutral to first or reverse just as the gears are almost stopped, but not quite. A little rotation helps ease the meshing and can almost eliminate noise or "thunk" sounds. The clutch-brake is unusual because it always picks up grease from the release bearing. Modern clutch-brakes are designed to operate with grease, and they even require greasing or oiling before installation. Clutch-brakes fail for two reasons. First, over time, the friction material will wear out. At some point, there will be metal-to-metal contact in the "sandwich" consisting of the bearing, clutch-brake plate, and the transmission cover. This might still slow the gears, but it can cause damage to the bearing or the transmission cover. It's also possible that the release bearing won't be able to move far enough toward the transmission to squeeze the disc, and the clutch-brake won't slow down the transmission shaft because there won't be friction in the "sandwich." If you keep the pedal linkage properly adjusted and periodically grease the release bearing and clutch-brake disc, the disc can last for a long time. However, the most common cause of clutch-brake failure is depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when shifting during a range change--when the truck is moving. When you do this, you are forcing the little clutch-brake to try and stall the engine and stop the truck! Doing that only one time will often destroy the clutch-brake completely. This can also occur if the pedal linkage isn't properly adjusted and the release bearing squeezes the clutch-brake into the transmission case when making a range gear change.
The vent location on automatic transmissions has to be located very high in order to keep fluid from leaking out on an incline! The vent is for air not transmission fluid. Both a high or low level can cause transmission damage! Low fluid levels cause the transmission pump to cavitate and can damage many components including the transmission pump, clutches/bands, torque converter, and valve body/governor. High fluid levels can cause dragging drive clutches and lock-up torque converter clutch. The clutches drag because the fluid level is above the exhaust passages in the valve body and the spinning clutch drums or torque converter causes fluid to siphon back into the clutch drums from centrifugal force. Valve body exhaust passages are located above the fluid level to break the siphoning effect. Very high transmission fluid levels cause churning of the fluid when it contacts the clutch drums and planetary gear sets and can foam so much that fluid runs out of the air vent. If transmission fluid comes out of the air vent.
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