I believe that the wires supplying a 30 amp circuit must be at least 10 gauge. If you have 14 or 12 gauge wires going to or from your 15 amp breaker, then drawing 30 amps over it could cause a fire hazard. It's like using those cheapo non-UL certified extension cords to plug a MILLION X-mas lights into (drawing more power than the wires can handle). You also have to make sure this GFI outlet you refered to is rated for 30 amps.
Do not simply swap out breakers. Overloading the wires in the circuit protected by that breaker will cause a fire.
If you need a 30 amp circuit you must run #10 gauge wire.
To be short...Yes
You could. However, it will trip at 15 amps, so be sure your load is less than that. Continuous draw should be no more than 12 amps.
An existing outlet can be converted by replacing the 30A circuit breakers or fuses in the circuit breaker or fuse box with 15A breakers or fuses. The 30A outlet should also be replaced by a 15A outlet. This is all that is required if the wire from the supply to the outlet is 10, 12, or 14 guage. The existing wire should be 10 guage wire to handle the 30A and there will be no problem in the same wire providing the 15A.
Yes and no. You can't put a 30A outlet on a 50A breaker as it will be a fire hazard. You can put a 50A outlet on it safely. Then you can plug the 30A load into it, but this is unwise and can be dangerous if you don't put fuses in your pigtail adapter. The best solution: Go ahead and install your 30A outlet but replace the 50A breaker with a 30A breaker. This is the safest and cleanest solution.
You have to replace the wire (as you are increasing the current capacity), the outlet, and the breaker. Essentially you have to remove the old circuit and put in a new one. You can't reuse parts of the old circuit as you are increasing the current capacity and they would be underrated.
Assuming a 120V circuit then a 30A Single Pole. For a 240V circuit an 30A two pole. Of course anything smaller that a 30A is acceptable. 30A is the maximum allowed.
A 2 pole 30A circuit breaker is a device that is used to supply a 240 volt power source for a device that operates on 240 volts and under 30 amps of current draw
It would have to be a 30 amp breaker to use the full power of the welder. I'd say go with the 30A. The general rule is that your planned load should only be 80% of the circuit capacity. That means a 30A circuit should have a maximum load of of (30*0.8) = 24A. With the 30 amp breaker you must have at least #10 wires feeding the circuit.
generally, an electric range will use either a 30A circuit or a 40A circuit. Check the requirements of the range.
No, you're fine. Breakers are mainly used to protect the wires (and people), not the appliance. The appliance should have its own overcurrent protection (a fuse usually). The 30 amp breaker will work in this case. First off, dryer outlets are usually 30A as a standard, just like normal wall outlets are 15A. Secondly, you want your expected load to be 80% of your breaker size. So, a 20A load would call for a minimum 25A breaker, they just rounded up to the standard 30A breaker. (Which has a maximum expected load, by this rule, of 24A.) Good question though.
A double pole 30 amp breaker can pass 30 amps per pole, therefore #10 wire should be used.
Yes, you just have to be sure you are grabbing power from each of the two legs.
It depends on how much amperage your ac pulls. It could be a 30a, 40a, or 50a breaker on a dedicated (isolated) circuit.
US NEC: No. You must plug 50A rated equipment into a 50A circuit, not into a 30A circuit. In fact, since the plug is physically different, you will not be able to do so even if you try. Do NOT attempt to replace the pigtail. The code requires that running current load not exceed a percentage (80% ??) of breaker capacity, and the 50A equipment will certainly exceed that.
Sure, if you want to keep resetting it. To be safe change to a 20 amp and make sure the wire is no smaller than 20 gauge....pkazsr To recharacterize your question, you asked, "Should an electrical appliance be interupted by a circuit breaker designed to trip at the same request for power?" The answer is no because power availability should exceed demand. Amperage is based upon demand. That is, if you have a 15 Amp demand, you need a breaker in excess of that demand. If my electric shaver requires 15 Amps to run, which is the equivalent of a buzzsaw, I don't want the circuit breaker to trip at that demand. A 20 Amp circuit breaker would be fine. It is a compromise. If the breaker is at 30 Amps it will power my 15A appliance without interuption. However, if I drop my 15A electric facial buzzsaw into water, the breaker will hopefully trip before I no longer need to concern myself about ever shaving again. That is, the breaker should furnish adequate power for normal use yet shut down when there is excessive demand, such as a shortage. Like when my wife tests our breaker panel by throwing a toaster into my bath, ostensibly to warm the water. The water was warmed I assure you.
The fuse diagram for my 91 Capri is as fallows: Engine 15A Stop 20A Power Window 30A \ Meter 10A Hazard 15A ------ HTD B-light 20A Cigar 15A Tail 15A IG Relay Room 10A door lock 30A Audio 15A \ Fog Lamp 20A Air Cond 15A ----- \ Cooling Fan 20A Wiper 20A Heater 30A The IG Relay and the Heater are the big ones on the side of the fuse box.
Yes it will operate it fine.
A 30 amp circuit breaker is needed unless the load is a motor circuit, then it has to be sized to 250 percent of the motors full load amps. For 30A circuit is needed breaker 30*1.25=37.5 --> 40A. If load is lamp or heater, then use breaker of group A or B. If load is motor, then use breaker of groupC or D (very hard start) or special safe breaker for motor - with variable amp setpoint. See related link also. By code you are only allowed 80% of the rating of a breaker. So 30x80%=24amps. 24 amps is the MAX allowed on a 30 amp breaker. You would need a 40amp breaker for a 30 amp circuit. 40x80%=32. So you would want a double pole 40amp breaker.
No. The receptacle, wiring, and breaker ratings should all be matched properly. Replacing the 50A receptacle with a 30A receptacle isn't a problem, since the wire should be rated at least 50A. But a 30A receptacle should be protected with a 30A double pole breaker. The breaker only costs about $8.00, so why wouldn't you change it given you don't have to change the wire which would actually be expensive or time consuming? The fact that you mention a 50A receptacle protected by a 20A existing breaker isn't normal either. I would check to make sure the wiring is actually rated for 50A and that someone didn't just throw a 50A receptacle onto a 20A circuit. (This means your wiring should be at least #8AWG THHN Copper wire.) If you protected a 30A receptacle with a 20A breaker, the load might trip the breaker often, considering the appliance requiring a 30A receptacle probably requires about 30A. If you do not understand the work well enough to accomplish it yourself properly and safely, don't try it. Consult a professional electrician, as they are proficient enough to do it properly and safely. When working on electrical circuits and equipment, make sure to de-energize the circuit you will be working on. Then test the circuit with a definitive means to make sure it is off (multimeter with metal tipped leads, voltage tester with metal tipped leads, etc., not a non-contact tester, which is non-definitive.)
Yes, with a caveat. The 50A wire and plug is more than heavy enough for the dryer, so there is no problem there. The possible problem is that the dryer is designed to be protected by a 30A breaker. In the event of failure in the dryer, the breaker may not trip as it is oversized. The best solution? Get a small breaker box from a home center and mount a 30A breaker in it. Mount it on the back of the dryer, run the 50A cord into the feed lugs of the box, and connect the dryer feed to the 30A breaker. This way you can plug the dryer into the 50A outlet like you want, and the dryer is protected with a 30A breaker as usual. You can get small breaker boxes or fused disconnects without too much cost. Just make sure the breaker box / disconnect panel is rated to 50A, as you want to feed it off a 50A circuit. As long as the voltage requirement of the dryer matches the voltage of the outlet (which is presumably 240 volts), then yes. The amp rating of the cord and outlet is merely the maximun current (amps) allowed. You're well under that with 24 amps.
Depending on the amperage that your air conditioner pulls, it will require either anywhere from a 30a to a 50a dedicated circuit. Hope that answers your question.
It is so there is no confusion about how it must be inserted and what type of outlet is required. Many plugs use different shapes and sizes to determine the amount of power available or the amount of power required. For instance, a 30Amp US plug is very different from a 15Amp US plug because you cannot allow consumers to plug a 30A device into a 15A outlet. Similarly, you cannot plug a 15A device into a 30A outlet because they're different, and they are different so that a 30A circuit breaker is not expected to protect a user of a 15A device, when something goes wrong. A "larger" prong on a plug is often used for the "neutral" wire, perhaps because the receptacle hole is larger and would be more dangerous if it were the hot wire.
I suspect you mean GFIC breaker. The dryer will not cause the breaker to fail.
No, this is not a recommended procedure. The breakers main job is to protect the wire that is connected to it. A 20A breaker will have a #12 wire (rated 20A) connected to it. A 30A breaker will have a #10 wire (rated 30A) connected to it. As you can see if you use a 30A breaker on a #12 wire you could overload the wire by 10 amps. I have seen an incident where the insulation has melted off of an overloaded wire, the wire short out and a fire start before the bigger size breaker tripped. DON'T DO IT.
: Replace the main panel breaker feeding the subpanel with a 30 amp breaker if it is currently larger (50A typical). Then you should be able to change your subpanel's 2 pole breaker to a couple of single pole 30A breakers. Use one of the single 30's for your 30A receptacle.: : : : IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB : SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY : REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. : If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes (not a simple proximity voltage indicator) to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.