There are two ways. The old R-12 A/C's have a "screw thread" style service fitting for adding refrigerant. These resemble a tire valve. R-134A systems use a "quick connect" type fitting with no external threads. These fittings are on stock R-134A and R-12 systems that have been retrofitted to R-134A. The purpose is to prevent someone from charging R-12 into an R-134A system and vice-versa. Also, retrofitted A/C's should have a label saying "Retrofitted to R-134A," or something to that effect. The label should also say the freon charge weight and type of oil in the system, usually a polyol ester oil (POE or ester) in retrofitted systems and a polyalkylene glycol (PAG) in stock R-134A systems. Look for both the "quick-connect" style fittings and retrofit labels on the vehicle in question.
AnswerWhat year? There are two types for cars R12 for cars up to 1993 It no longer made and if anyone has any they can charge you $100 to $150 per pound The other is R134a for cars after 1993 An older car MUST be retrofitted to R134a for $100 to $500 depending on what needs to be replacedfreonthere is only one type of freon. It's freon it will work in any vehicleTotally incorrect! There are several different kinds of "FREON" freon is actually a trade name of Dupont for R22... Not an overall refrigerant. Anyone who has the certification to work on refrigeration equipment of any size will tell you it needs to be replaced with R134a. R12 is a refrigerant that destroys the ozone and has been banned by the EPA. FYI if anyone is caught putting R12 in for you they and you can be stuck with pretty hefty fines as well.
If you got to any auto parts store, they will have bottles of r134a that you can buy that have gauges in the handles that will tell you when you have enough in it. If you system wont cool or is out of freon you have a leak and should get it check to have a repair done, an ac system with out freon has no lub either and that will lead to compressor burn out. The freon cools the air and lubs the compressor.
Everyone will tell you it's better to take your car to the shop to have AC work done. It can be dangerous and illegal to vent the freon into the atmosphere. But first of all, we need to know if the AC has been converted to R134A? If it's R12 you're going to have to convert it to the readily available R134A. If it is already R134A and by "to take freon" you mean add freon, then you add it to the low pressure side port. It's said that the hose that connects the can to your AC system won't connect to the high pressure side, but do not even attempt to do this. Thus the dangerous part earlier. I have heard it can explode. The low pressure side fitting is usually under a blue cap. And the high side is under the red one. Also do not overfill. This can be dangerous as well. If you have added a can and it's still not getting cold inside do not continue to add any more. Something is probably broke and adding more freon won't help it. But once again it is recommended to take it to the shop.
I have a '92 and it is Freon 12. There are a couple of ways to tell. 1. There is a sticker under the hood that will tell the type of freon and the amount. 2. The best way is to look at the freon input connection. Freon 12 is a 1/4" flare fitting and freon 134A is much larger. A freon 12 system can be converted to 134a with a kit that is very available. They make these kits because freon 12 is unavailable and is now illegal to sell.
Very Likely, Run By Any Parts House, Let Them Look To Be Assured. It May Have Been Converted To R134A, They Also Can Tell You By The Fittings. From Factory It Was R12. GOOD LUCK
There should be a sticker under the hood indicating whether it uses R12 or R134A. Unfortunatley a lot dont. The only way to tell is by the high and low side fittings. R12 fittings are bothe the same size. R134A has two different size fittings where one is larger than the other, ussually the high side fitting is larger than the low side.
Your car should use R134a. The manufacturers switched in the early 90's. The easy way to tell is have a look at the sticker under your hood. Every car I've looked at has a sticker that says some basic emissions data, engine size, and the type of refrigerant used. The other way to tell is to look at the two charge ports. You'll find them on the silver coolant lines, under large plastic plugs that look like tire valve caps. R134a systems will have a quick disconnect fitting (a ridge, not a thread). R12 will have threaded fittings for the hose. If you have a car that uses R12, it should be converted to R134a. The process isn't very hard, and the parts are available at most auto parts stores, if you have a vacuum pump and recovery unit. A R12 to R134a conversion kit comes with fitting converters, a flush kit (you can NOT mix R12 and R134a. Bad things happen to your equipment), and the recharge freon and oil.
R134a. Open the hood and look on the decal above the radiator. It will tell you R134a.
You should be able to find a sticker on the underside of the hood that will tell you. It should be R134a.
What we use is called a freon identifier and what it does is it takes a small amount of the freon that is in the tank and gives its identification and values.........
With a refrigerant id tester. Go to a service center and have them perform a refrigerant purity test. Many R12 to R134a conversions did not actually have a complete conversion done, as the full conversion was very expensive, and one could get by with replacing some fittings and the compressor oil. Thus, the R12 schrader valves were often retained on these converted systems.
1993 jeep Cherokee uses R12. But, if your vehichle has been upgraded it would be R134a. Look at your compressor, located on the mid lieft front side of the engine compartment. If it's OEM it should tell you what type of refrigerant is used. Also, you can look at the engine compartment sticker, located drivers side, against the fire wall.
That would be R-12 for sure unless it's been converted over to 134a. My daughter has a 92 Lebaron and it has the r-12. It will freeze you out even on a 100 degree day. People ask me what is the difference between r-12 and r134a and i tell them "you will Know the dif when its 105 out" 134a craps out at about 95 degrees in my experience. Unfortunatly r-12 has been removed from production and converting over to 134a is your only option. Unless you happen to know someone who has some r12 laying around somewhere. Oh yea and if you decide to convert over to 134a, have a professional do it.
If you are only getting warm air out of the airducts with the AC turned on, it may be time for more freon. Also, if you hear a growling noise from the compressor when accelerating, that is also an indication of low freon.
Find the tag it will tell you there.
Yes, it should tell you somewhere on the nametag what type & how much.
Depends on the size of the unit and how bit or small the compressor is. There will be labels that will tell the technician how many pounds to capacity for Freon.
Your air conditioning system holds approximately 5 pounds of Freon. Most recharge kits come with a gauge that will tell you exactly how much Freon to put into the system.
A 1994 and later Ford Explorer will have a factory, refrigerant (R134a) 134a system. In mid 1992 all vehicles produced for delivery in the United States were required under Federal law to have this type of system. Occassionally, but rarely, one will find a late 1992 or early 1993 system that still has refrigerant (R12) 12 fittings. But this is the exception rather than the rule and it is unheard of (virtually) for anything later than 1993 to have anything other than an R134a ayatem. Of course, it is easy to determine which system your Explorer has by checking the service fittings (the place where refrigerant service manifold guages hook up). Although as of last count there were over seventy (that's right!) different refrigerants on the market (all requiring [technically by law] their own exclusively distinct service fittings) there are only two refrigerants that (a) have ever been used by ALL (U.S.) automobile manufacturers and (b) have ever been approved by BOTH the EPA and all (U.S.) automobile manufacturers (concurrently). These are R12 and R134a. If the service fittings on your vehicle are 1/4 inch, male flare fittings, you have an R12 system. If the fittings on your vehicle have no threads and resemble the type of fitting used on modern day air compressor (an air 'chuck' type fitting) then you have an R134a fitting. If you have 'air chuck' type fittings attached over 1/4 inch male flare fittings, you have a system that has been converted from R12 to R134a (keep in mind that the specially designated fittings for some alternative refrigerants bear similar resemblence to R134a fittings, but R134a guages will not attach to them). Also, keep in mind two things. Refrigerants that contain ANY amount of flammable substance(s) (such as Freeze12, HCFC12, AutoCool and others) are illegal in most states. Refrigerants other than R12 and R134a void warranty on most parts produced by most manufacturers (and, yes, they do test, and yes, they can tell). Additionally, you might note that these alternative refrigerants (ANY BLENDing of refrigerants is federally illegal) are generally more expensive than R134a. Given the ease of converting a system now and the low cost of R134a, and the items mentioned above... why use something else? And I didn't even mention the fact that no one has done extensive research on these alternative refrigerants to determine what, if any damage they might cause to a system and/or what type of oils are compatible with them.
1. The vehicle is a late 1992 and up........ 2. The vehicle has a label that states what type of freon it has. 3. The R134a service ports are larger than R12 service ports. 4. Call the dealer and give them the VIN number and they can tell you if you are still unsure..........
If I remember correctly, the 94 Blazer used R134a. But, if you're not certain, the sticker should tell you. Look in rear corner of the engine compartment, on the passenger side.. there'll be a plastic housing for the HVAC compartment. The sticker should be on there. If it isn't, the schrader valves will tell you - if there are threads on the outside of those valves, it was originally an R12 system. If the valves are the quick connect type, with no threads, it's an R134a system. If you have the R12 valves, I'd recommend strongly that you have a refrigerant purity test done to see whether or not the system was retrofitted R134a... in most such retrofits, a complete conversion was not done, and the R12 schrader valves are often retained in retrofitted systems.
I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette with the same problem. Shop mechanics have told me theirisa leak somwhere in the A/C system that cannot be detected. I have had the AC system filled with dye twice and no one can find a leak. They tell me that the leak must be minute which is why it has been undetected. My next step for this situation is to purchase an over the counter leak sealer and see if that does any good. The local auto parts store have a kit that will convert the system from R12 freon to R134a which I will have to do before I fill the system with freon.
Look for the sticker under the hood! It will tell you the refrigerant and the ounces.
The amount of Freon you will need to fill your 2001 Mercury Sable air conditioning system is dependent upon how low the Freon level is. A recharge kit will have a gauge to tell you when the system is full.