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Catalytic Converters

Can you use a universal catalytic converter designed for a 6 cylinder in a 4 cylinder car?

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2006-07-08 23:18:27
2006-07-08 23:18:27

Yes, if it will physically fit in the space provided. May have to adapt the in or out pipes. Reburn pipe also has to be conected. Might be tough.

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No. Its part of exhaust system designed to reduce emissions.


You'll damage the Catalytic Converter,thats it. The engine would be fine otherwise..


The use of catalytic converters as pollution control devices has been mandated on automobiles for decades. They are designed to last the life of the vehicle, and their failure is often indicative of other problems such as oil and gasoline contamination.


If the engine was designed to run with a cat fitted, the answer is yes, but the emissions would be out of acceptable limits. Most diesels are not cat equipped, but by the nature of being a diesel, they are injection engines. Know that is is illegal to remove a catalytic converter without replacing it with another one.


A catalytic converter is designed to burn any raw fuel or other hydrocarbons that get past the combustion chamber. If it's large enough to handle the exhaust, it's ok to use an aftermarket converter. If you have a single exhaust system, you only have one converter. If it's a TRUE dual exhaust, you'll have 2.


If you put leaded gas in an engine that is designed to run on unleaded gas, while the engine will run, it will not run optimally and you will ruin the catalytic converter.


You should get one from the start when you bought your car. A: With all due respect to the answer above, cars were produced for 73 years before the introduction of a Catalytic Converter (1975) 35 years ago. Any car made before 1975 is not required, nor designed, to have one (CAT's produce a LOT of heat that older cars are not designed to deal with). Cars made between 1975 and 1995 are only required to have one, if its emissions cannot be controlled under other conditions (OBD I systems). With the introduction of OBC II systems in 1996 the system required the use of the Catalytic converter to function without errors.


In 1999-2000, Mazda designed 2 exhaust versions.The most common version is the Federal-spec Miata. This exhaust system has the typical, single catalytic converter with an O2 sensor before and after it.The front O2 sensor is before the catalytic convertor and can be seen by removing the driver's side wheel.The rear O2 sensor will be just after the catalytic converter, at the 12 o'clock position between the rear wheels.The California-spec Miata had a precatalytic converter directly installed on the exhaust manifold/header, as well as the standard catalytic converter running the length of the engine.You will find the first O2 sensor directly on the header, just above the pre-cat. It is easily seen from the driver's side of the engine bay.The second O2 sensor is found just below the pre-cat, but before the main catalytic converter. It is easily seen by removing the driver's side wheel.


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I have a 2005 Mazda 6s (V6 engine). There are 4 Oxygen sensors on my engine. You will need a special slotted socket wrench. It cost about ten dollars at your local auto parts store. It's designed with a slot in the side wall to fit over the wires coming out of the top of the sensor. On each side of the engine there are two sensors. One at the top of the catalytic converter and one in the pipe just below the converter. You go at the ones in the bottom of the converter from under the car and the ones in the top of the catalytic converter can be removed from inside of the engine compartment. You will have to remove the engine cover and the intake manifold to get at the sensor on the back side of the engine near the fire wall. Be sure and disconnect the connector of the oxygen sensor so the wires will not be damaged while you remove or replace the sensor. I'm sure if your car has a 4 cylinder engine you will have just two on the front side of the engine. One just below the exhaust manifold and just below the catalytic converter. Same procedures less work.


It would be plain stupid to remove the converter. The converter is designed into the engine controls of the vehicle. Removing it wouldn't really increase power because they have very little backpressure. If you want to remove it because its plugged or bad then you could do so but the check engine light would come on and it would never pass a smog test. It won't physically hurt the engine to remove it. Removing the converter is against the law. I would have an aftermarket converter welded in to replace your old one if its bad.


Short answer: YES! Longer answer: The EGR valve is designed to recirculate some exhaust gas into the intake, in order to cool combustion temperatures somewhat. If the combustion temps exceed 1100 degrees (actually common in gasoline engines) then oxides of nitrogen are produced. these gases are what we see as visible smog. If the EGR valve fails, it can lead to very high exhaust temps which can gradually melt the insides of the catalytic converter. If a failed EGR is combined with a lean fuel mixture, or over-advanced ignition timing, the melting of the converter happens very quickly.


There are three basic types of automotive catalytic converters; Two-Way, Three-Way and Three-Way + Air. Each type uses a slightly different method and chemistry to reduce the harmful elements in exhaust emissions. Early model converters used a pelletised catalyst, but most modern converters are now designed with a free-flowing honeycomb ceramic catalyst. The type of converter required on a particular vehicle varies with model year, engine size and vehicle weight. Some vehicles even make use of more than one type of converter or a pre-converter to meet emission reduction standards. A Two-Way converter, used on American cars between 1975 - 1980, oxidizes unburned harmful hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into water and carbon dioxide. The first vehicles with catalytic converters had Two-Way reduction only capabilities. A Three-Way converter is a triple purpose converter. It reduces nitrous oxides into nitrogen and oxygen. And, like the two-way converter, it oxidizes unburned harmful hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into water and carbon dioxide. Hope this helps, Ron Harris


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That depends on where you're coming from, and on where the appliances you bring with you are designed to operate.


Cat converters are designed to solve car problems. They're designed to reduce harmful emissions


There are TWO Oxygen sensors. One is located just in front of the catalytic converter, either on the exhaust manifold, or screwed into the inlet area of the catalytic converter itself. The second one is located either at the exhaust end of the catalytic converter or in the exhaust pipe directly after it. CAUTION: The electrical wires are permanently connected to the sensor and must not be removed from it, or it will be destroyed. Due to the constant changing temperatures to which they are subjected they may be DIFFICULT to remove. NOTE: There is a special tool designed for their removel - use of an open end wrench may round off the hex head. Start and run the engine for a minute or two (to slightly expand the metal of the exhaust system) and then, using caution not to burn yourself, carefully remove the sensors from their seat.


Sounds like a plugged catalytic converter. Or muffler resonator assembly. Either way, your exhaust is not getting out of your tailpipe at the rate it was designed to flow. You will ruin your exhaust valves driving it this way. Very expensive to repair, better get this fixed.


A tachometer works by measuring how many time a spark plug fires. If the tachometer is designed to determine the rpm of an 8 cylinder engine it will not show the correct speed of a 2 cylinder engine. If I remember correctly if the tachometer designed for an 8 cylinder is used on a 4 cylinder engine it will show twice the number of actual rpm. So an 8 cylinder tachometer used on a 2 cylinder engine will show 4 times the actual rpm of the 2 cylinder engine. If you check around there are special tachometers designed for 2 cylinder engines.


No they are almost always designed for one console only.


If catalytic converter is bolted on you can check them by taking them off and checking for cracks in the passage ways, if it is welded or you don't want to take them off to check you can take a drill and make two small wholes; one in front and one behind the CAT (be sure not to drill in the CAT, but in the pipes in front and behind it) get a pressure gage designed for such a job, [while the vehicle is running] check pressure of both holes, if the rear hole has a considerably lower pressure reading than the front reading then you know that the passage way is being blocked, you will see that the pressure in the front hole will be considerably greater this is because the gases are building (one or two psi difference isn't bad 5 or more lbs difference you might consider taking to a local muffler shop who can hook you up with a universal CAT!)


An engine that is performing at peak efficiency will burn all the fuel in the combustion chamber during the combustion process. An engine that is not performing properly, that is not burning all the fuel, will allow unburned or excess fuel to enter the exhaust system. When this excess or unburned fuel contacts the hot core of the converter it will ignite. This constant infusion of unburned fuel will cause temperatures to continuously rise above the designed operating temperature until the core of the catalytic converter will actually melt. Possible causes for the excess fuel entering the exhaust system are an incorrect fuel mixture, incorrect timing, corroded spark plugs, worn and cracked ignition wires, improper fuel pressure, a faulty oxygen sensor, sticking float, faulty fuel injector or a malfunctioning check valve. http://www.all-catalytic-converters.com/techtip3.html


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You will not obtain any further horsepower or torque in this application by removing the catalytic converter. Many individuals read on "import tuner" magazines or websites that "gutting" this allows more power by making the exhaust stream "free-flowing." The truth is, none of these "tuners" know anything about the engineering behind the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter has materials inside of it that are catalysts, which start and speed up the chemical reaction in the converter without being damaged themselves. These materials are cerium, platinum and palladium. In short, they strip NOx into harmless O2 and N, which reduces pollution into the atmosphere. While stripping NOx down with the intense heat in the catalytic converter, this also burns remaining HCs in the exhaust stream, further reducing emissions. All in all, the removal of the catalytic converter will not produce any extra power for two reasons: 1) The exhaust stream will not be any more free flowing; the catalytic converter is not restrictive, it simply acts as a "catalyst" to reduce emissions, and the engineers of the vehicle have designed it that way. 2) Removal of the catalytic converter can disrupt the air/fuel mixture actually inducted into you engine, and here is how: Let's say you remove your catalytic converter for "more power." The PCM of your vehicle determines how much fuel to deliver with your air stream to your combustion chambers based on input from various sensors, such as the MAP, MAF, and HO2s. Now, with your catalytic converter equipped, the chemical reactions are occurring and the heated O2 sensor(s) will detect X amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream, and the computer will say, "okay, you're running like this, inject fuel for X amount of milliseconds this time." If you have upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensors, or even just upstream, let's say you remove your catalytic converter, and the HCs don't get burned up in the cat since it is not there. Now you have lots of fuel molecules going down the tailpipe. The oxygen sensor(s) then see minimal O2 since there is excessive fuel vapors. The PCM says, "WHOA, WAY too much fuel in the exhaust stream, the engine MUST be getting too much fuel (when in actually it is the absence of the cat making it LOOK like there was too much fuel), so let me lean it out, and turn injector on-time WAY down." All of the sudden your vehicle has NO power, all because the removal of the cat tricked the computer to put much less fuel into the engine, so you are running a very lean air/fuel mixture, and you have your pedal through the floor, and are hardly going anywhere. All in all, if you are going to perform a "tune" or modification to your engine, it is wise to understand how all of the systems and components interact with each other. Lots of idiots think they know everything because they read "Tuner Monthly" and then they wonder why their vehicle doesn't run right. While a lengthy explanation, I hope this answers your question.




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