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Material can be transported along a beach via longshore drift;

  • Waves approach beach at an angle
  • Material is pushed up the beach by the swash in the same direction as the wave approach
  • As the water runs back down the beach the backwash drags material down at right angles to the beach line
  • Over a period of time sediment moves in this zig-zag fashion down the coast.

Material can also be transported along a beach at low tide when the sand dries out by the wind (usually forming sand dunes)

Material may also be transported up and down a beach by attrition. Waves may have fairly high energy so will pick up material and may loose energy further up the beach and therefore deposit it there.

Might also be moved by saltation (waves carry slightly smaller sediment in the same way as attrition)

Waves may be swash-aligned (waves hit beach straigt on, so sediment moved up and down beach) or drift-aligned (waves hit beach at right angles causing longshore drift)

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Q: Describe how material is transported along a beach?
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Do jetties cause beach erosion?

Yes and no. It will cause deposition on one side of the jetty and erosion on the other. Deposition: A jetty on a beach interrupts the long-shore drift. Long-shore drift occurs when the current meets the beach at an angle. The swash moves along the beach at an angle and carries sediment with it. it deposits some and washes some back with it. The backwash always returns at 90 degrees, so it carries material along the beach in this way: washing it up at an angle, straight back down, then up the beach again at an angle. This can reduce erosion, as it deposits some with each wave. This material will eventually end up all deposited on the beach when it reaches the jetty as it will trap the sediment. Erosion: On the other side of the jetty however, refraction of the waves caused by the jetty will direct them more sharply in towards the beach, so they are at less of an angle, giving a higher force when they hit the beach. These will carry hardly any sediment so very little is deposited. All the waves' energy will then be used for erosion, instead of transportation, which will be greater because of the reduced angle. most beaches have waves coming at an angle, even if it is small. its pretty impossible to get a wave coming at exactly 90 degrees, so long-shore drift should occur on most straight beaches


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