It has hydraulic roller lifters.
solid lifters at a 012-inch clearance
The hydraulic lifters do not require adjustment nearly as often as solid lifters.
Hydraulic lifters would be STOCK from the factory. On the 84 engine.
Yes it does. Chevy did not use solid lifters in that engine.
Assuming solid lifters (as opposed to hydraulic, self-adjusting lifters) you could burn valves if the lifters are adjusted too tight or have excessive valve clatter if the lifters are adjusted too loose.
YES, Unless someone has installed a solid lift cam sometime are another.
You could take off a rocker and try to push down on the pushrod. You'd be able to feel the spring in a hydraulic lifter, but not on a solid lifter.
It has hydraulic lifters that are known to get noisy. Mazda sells a shim set that can be installed under each lifter to reduce clearance so that the lifters don't require as much pump-up travel. The lifters are located in the ends of the rocker arms, replacing or shimming them requires the removal of part of the intake plenum. You can also buy new lifters in the aftermarket for about $20. each, but there is 12 so it's not exactly cheap.
I guess that you are talking about a hydraulic lifter for an auto engine. There is no repair for these. They can be converted to "solid" lifters or used as paper weights.
solid or hydraulic cam/lifters? If it is hydraulic, and the lifters are pumped up, you need to tighten the rocker nut until it *just* starts to grasp the pushrod (spin the pushrod while tightening the nut to feel it) Now, tighten the nut from the 12 o'clock position to the 4 o'clock position. Do this with each rocker with each cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke. Cams have cross duration, so the cylinder must be TDC on compressions stroke before adjusting the valves of that cylinder.
It has nothing to do with the lifters getting use to your driving style. Lifters rarely loosen up. Lifters wear over time, thus causing the gap to widen, creating lifter clatter. On solid lifters, that is why they must be adjusted periodically. On hydraulic lifters, this is not necessary, as they automatically adjust for the gap due to wear, if they were installed and adjusted correctly in the first place.
I was taught it was a noise thing - less noise in the hydraulic system due to less tapping of metal on metal. Hope someone reads this and verifies, but that's what I was taught.
The 2.8 v6 produced up to around 1985 had solid lifters with adjustable rocker arms.
All 1971 VW Beetle engines were manufactured with solid valve lifters.
is a 1995 s10 2.2 have solid or hydrilic lifters
HI, FORD 2.8, 2.9, AND 4.0 "GERMAN" V6 MOTORS ALL HAVE THE SAME BELL PATERN.THE 2.8 WAS A SOLID LIFTER ENGINE WHILE THE 2.9 AND 4.0 WERE HYDRAULIC LIFTER ENGINES. THE 4.0 USES HYDRAULIC, ROLLER LIFTERS FOR MAXIMUM EFFICIANCY.DURING THE 70S THERE WAS ALSO A 2600 VERSION OF THIS MOTOR USED IN CAPRI CARS.
As you give very little information as to make, model, engine size or year, and exactly when it is ticking, this is just an educated guess. Normally this is valve noise caused by valve clearance issues. If it has solid lifters then they need adjusting. If it has hydraulic lifters, they may be clogged and sticking. If it has hydraulic lifters try adding a can of Seafoam engine tune to a fresh oil filter change. It can be purchased at many auto parts stores. Drive the car for 500 miles and change the oil and filter again. You may have to do this more than once to remove the deposits in the lifters. If this does not work, then the valve stems or lifters are worn, and need adjustment or possible replacement.
The pros say, "Don't preload the lifters." When they are preloaded, they are basically solid-lifters until they get a chance to cycle a few times. With no 'give' in the valve train, things can break! Either way, don't wrap the motor past 2000 rpm for a few seconds. The parts gotta get "friendly".
Comp Cam is considered a leader in valve train technology. Some of the products available are Valve Springs and solid Roller Lifters that you may need for whatever kind of engine that you have.
If your valves are way out of range you could contact the cylinder head or the piston and possibly bend the valve but it isn't likely they would be that far out of range. If you have hydraulic lifters you shouldn't have that problem. With solid lifters, be sure to slacken all of the adjustments.
The valve lash on all OHV engines can be adjusted, no matter if they are hydraulic or solid lifters. It is just done in a different manner depending on which one you are working on.
Yes, or it could be a lifter out of adjustment. Some 1973 Ford Torino V8s had solid lifters that must be manually adjusted. Depends on which engine you have. If your engine has hydraulic lifters add a can of Seafoam Motor Tune to your oil. Follow the directions on the can. This will clean the lifters and possibly save you the trouble of replacing one. Click the link for info on Seafoam.
That would be zero valve lash. You only use a feeler gauge on solid lifters.