Both, but there's a built in bias that makes the front brakes engage faster and harder. As the car slows down its weight shifts towards the front wheels, so if both front & rear were braked evenly hard the rears would lock up and cause the car to spin out.
Step on the brake pedal.
try spitting on the front rotors. This helped and my brakes are like new
If they're spring brakes, you won't be able to get them to release. The brake chambers won't actuate when you push on the treadle valve (brake pedal), the brake control valve won't remain pressed in.
The brake pedal has nothing to do with it. If air is in the system then bleed the brakes.
It is the distance between floorboard and pedal top, when the brake pedal is fully depressed (after applying brakes).
The rear brake pedal is under your foot on the right hand side and the front brake is a lever on your handle grip on the right hand side.
If you mean loose as in the brake pedal is low, front of car nosediving when you apply brakes,your rear brake shoes are 1-out of adjustment,2 wore out and need replacing.You can diagnose this by raising parking brake lever,and hitting the brake pedal. If pedal is higher then the diagnosis is proven,if not,you have hydraulic problem-ie.fluid leak,front caliper guide pins stuck,master cylinder bypassing,needing replaced.
Usually that would be caused by a faulty brake light switch connected TO the brake pedal. If the brakes work the pedal is probably ok.
Check around brake pedal for something rubbing. If OK, I'd look into the master cylinder.
there are under the brake pedal a switch which control brakes ligths . You may check the swich after checking fuses,and bulb.
You will wear out the brakes prematurely and you may also overheat the brakes and experience brake fade (no or poor brakes).
press down firmly on the brake pedal and keep holding down the brake pedal