I have a 1996 Z28 SS. My radio turn on and off. when it's off there is no power to the radio fuse or power window circuit breaker. I would say that it does ???
I had the exact same problem on my 97 Z28.
The problem is the "body control module". This module turns your radio on and off and provides power to your windows. These modules develope a bad solder spot on the circuit board that is a very common problem.
The module is on the passenger side, up under the dash. Remove the cover that is under the dash and you will see a small box to the right with 2 plugs going into it. This is the module. You will need to unplug the 2 plugs(sometimes difficult, because there are tabs to push first) and pull the module out. Then the plastic box will open up and you will see a circuit board.
On the top side you will see some relays(for windows/radio/etc). The bad solder spot is on the bottom side of the circuit board, in the area where the relays are soldered. You will probably need a magnifying glass to find the bad spot. Look for a solder that has a crack or a dull look to it(mine had a crack).
If you know how to use a soldering gun, just heat up the spot to melt the old solder and apply some new solder(electronic type only) to it.
If you dont know how, have a friend do it for you.
Then re-install the box and that will fix your problem!
Power windows were not a factory option. If you have power windows then they are aftermarket installs. The installer could have placed the fuse anywhere in the power lead.
I think you answered that question yourself, when you said, `hot wire', which usually means the positive battery power lead.
In the fuse box.There is likely also an inline fuse in the power lead wire at the radio.
at the fuse box. BUT if it is and after market radio. the installer often hooks a wire to a power sourse and has an inline fuse on the positive lead wire. So you will need to trace the positive lead wire back to the source and see if it has a inline fuse.
Nothing is wrong with a fuse if it is conducting. That is what they are supposed to do. If you are measuring across the fuse (one lead on the incoming line and one lead on the outgoing line) you should read zero. If you are reading 208V in this test, then the fuse is blown.
Fuse is an alloy of lead and tin.
You said fuse, so I am assuming it is an old main panel and that there are perhaps 2 or 3 fuses in the panel. First off you have to be very careful not to get electrocuted working with a main fuse. Here are some assumptions to check not knowing your configuration. If you have some power, but not all and multiple circuits have no power, you may have blown a fuse on one leg of the power from the Power Company. If you have no power and there isn't a power outage in your area you may have blown fuse. Best way to check is with a volt meter. You can pick one up cheaply from local hardware store. Suggest one with a meter rather than a go/no go meter with a light or buzzer. The black lead of the meter to ground and the red lead to each side of the fuse if you don't know which is in and which is out. There should be 120 V or there abouts on both sides of the fuse to ground. When replacing the fuse there should be a disconnect switch so neither end of the fuse holder is live during a fuse change.
the red is your main power wire, it makes the stereo turn on. The yellow is the memory and needs to be hooked to a constant or always hot lead, so you don't have to readjust your stereo every time you turn it on and off.
Lead is used in stained glass windows to keep the different parts of the windows together otherwise it would all fall out
More than likely you will find it is not a fuse you have a problem with it is a fusable link in the wiring system follow the main power lead from the battery to the starter there is a small capusal like area in this lead if it is burned up this is why you have no power it is called a fuseable link if it is not in the main hot wire look at the smaller wires coming off the starter. they will have fusable links in them as well .
Try replacing the Circuit breaker (rectangular silver block 20-30 Amp located in most fuse panels), it may be faulty. Next test for 12-Volt at the same fuse point (circuit breaker) Hot Lead, with the ignition switch in both accessory and run positions. (you do not need to start it) If you have power at the hot lead of the fuse then you know you are providing power to the circuit. If you don't have power in either position then you have an open circuit somewhere between the ignition console and the fuse panel. Run a separate power lead bypass from a continuous 12 Volt Positive source through a switch rated at 30 Amps directly to the fuse panel where you should have read the 12 volts with ignition switch on. This will allow you to power the windows directly in the event of window failure. The next option would be to get a Haynes manual for your type of vehicle and look at the wiring diagrams located near the back to see if your system incorporates a relay. The relay may be bad. (replace) Other than those suggestions you may have a pooched wiring harness witch can be rather expensive and time consuming to replace.Best of luck.Stickletistick_99@telus.netAnswerThere is also a spring in the window control switch (control you use to roll windows up/down) that could be worn and not working, you can just replace the whole switch.
yes there is a fuse in the fuse box. the wire will lead to it or to the ignition switch. But the fuse to amke the hot wire hot is in the under dash mounted fuse box.
Use a multimeter to check if the fuse is still conducting current. Set the multimeter to read Ohms and place one lead on one end of the fuse. Put the other lead on the other side and see if there is a reading. If there is, the fuse is whole. If there is no reading, the fuse is blown.
By 'fuse', I assume that you are referring to the fuse element (fuse wire), rather than the complete fuse?A fuse element is an alloy, such as tin and lead. Alloys such as these exhibit what is called 'eutectic' action. This means that the alloy retains the good conductivity (e.g. of the tin), but has a lower melting point (e.g. thanks to the lead).
The fuse would not "blow" when the critical power loading was reached. The power going into the appliance could exceed the safety level. At best this could damage the appliance - which will usually be more expensive than a fuse. At worst, it could lead to a short circuit and a fire which could destroy property and possibly kill!
The fuse for a craftsman tractor is located at the back of the ignition switch on a lead or wire,it carries a 20 amp. fuse.
just run a new power lead thru the fire wall with new fuse and hard wire it its Moor efficient
Check master switch If burnt or black spots or broken replace ,Check power lead wire (usually red) for cracks ,wear,etc..Replace if needed .Make sure good connect from power lead to switch.Also make sure other connections are good ,including ground connection
First, I check the fuse then I remove the lighter power lead and check for power and I test the ground. Many times the lighter housing or well looses its ground due to much plastic in modern dashes. If power,fuse, and ground are good then the well itself can be replaced for about $5. I hope this helps you. Mark
Windows can get so cold that they break. If the temperature outside is very cold and the temperature inside is warm it can lead to windows cracking.
Honda Civic Car Stereo Antenna Removal and InstallationCar Stereo Repair Home | Car Stereo Removal | BOSE repair | FAQ | Shipping | Top 10 | About UsBroken antenna mast ! 1) Remove two screws securing antenna mast base to roof. 1) See car stereo removal instructions for removal of left dash panel.2) Disconnect antenna lead, located at edge of side panel by fuse block. This saves removing the entire stereo.3) Pull antenna cable free back to opening behind fuse block and trace up to opening. (Remember this spot!) 1) Pull old antenna and cable from top of car roof. Cut antenna lead and tape new lead to end.2) Feed new antenna mast into opening while pulling old antenna cable from inside car, (reach back behind fuse block for antenna cable and pull through opening and back to connector.)3) Push antenna mast completely to car body and tighten two screws.4) Be sure to lower antenna next time through car wash.
There's almost certainly a wire off on the back of the stereo, or a blown fuse: Car Stereos take two (occasionally three) +12V power feeds. The main one is routed via the ignition switch - it sounds like this one is intact. There is sometimes a separate illumination feed which picks off the dashboard lighting supply. Ignore this one (it isn't your problem) The one that I think is causing you problems is the standing supply that comes straight off the battery bus without touching any of the switches. If your stereo uses the standard(ish) Isopin connector, it's the yellow lead.
Fuse. Should be by the pedals in the fuse box. If you follow the numbers on the instructions on the box door, it should lead you too the correct fuse.
There is not a fuse box; however the fuses are located under the seat. Follow the positive cable and it will lead to the fuse.
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