Begin by removing the positive cable from your 1990 Volvo 240 battery. Remove the cables from the front of the starter motor. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new starter motor.

1. Purchase an OBD II code reader machine from an auto parts store.

2. Or the easier, cheaper way: take your vehicle to Aamco Transmissions or Midas shop and they will check it for free!

If the Volvo is 1995 or newer, they can pull the codes very easily.

If it's 1994 or older, they can pull the codes but it takes more labor.

Whichever shop you go to may charge you if your Volvo is 1994 or older. But you can always try to negotiate the price down and see if they'll go for it.

The Aamco I took my '94 to wanted $98. I said forget it, but since they took so long with my car they through in the test free.

To fix the ac system on the 1988 240 Volvo, check the freon level first. Check the fuse, the relay, then the compressor clutch to find the defective part.

Trunk LH side behind the trunk panel liner. You will find the Rear Electrical module there. Part number on the brake light relay should be 9441161. You will need some sort of wiring diagram as there are a couple of relays used there with that same part number.

This sounds like a bad alternator or bad electrical connection to the alternator. First check your battery voltage with the engine at idle. It should be about 13.6v-14.2v. All the idiot lights get their ground through the "battery" failure light. That is often caused by a bad connection of the small red wire at the back of the alternator. Most likely brushes are worn down on your voltage regulator. Replace it, fairly easy job, two screws hold it attached to the alternator. It is located next to the oil filter.

YES! We have 2 Volvo's. 2000 C70 and 89 240 DL wagon. Bought 240 used 7 years ago and we are the 3rd owners of car. I would sell the C70 before I would ever sell the 240 Wagon. In fact we are beginning a long restoration project on the 240. We found a wrecked 93 240 & bought it for parts. We paid $500 for the wrecked, "spare parts" car. The 89 240 has over 250k miles. Over the years our Volvo's have needed repairs that would amount to an average of 2-3 months new car payments per year (that's including both cars). You should be able to tell if the particular car you are looking into has been abused, if it smokes or leaks oil (ours burns a little oil) so we have the oil changed every 3 months. Faded paint is common with 240's, so don't judge the car by the paint job. The other common problem with the 240 wagons is the "hinge harness" that is wired through the hinges that are attached to open the tail gate. The problem was corrected by the 93 240s. So don't be discouraged if the 3rd tail light or back wiper doesn't work. Just remember this vehicle is over 20 years old & will have its quirks. But if you have maintenance done on a regular basis, that car will last you 20 more years if you want it to. Do yourself a favor and buy Bentley's Volvo 240 Service Manual. ISBN 978-083760285-1 on Amazon for $32. Even if you have no experience with car repair (like us) its the "Volvo Bible" and a "must have" for any 240 owner. Its the best $32 you will ever spend. "Volvo for Life"

I called a shop called DaisyWagon on Ravenna in Seattle. Here's what they said. If your overdrive is working after a period of time it's a heat issue; i.e. the overdrive isn't working until something heats up. If the relay was broken, the overdrive would never work. The same thing goes for the solenoid (another "solution" on these sites)- it to is an on and off mechanism that most likely wouldn't be effected by heat. The folks at Daisy wagon most confidently said that what they do is enlarge a passageway near the diaphragm near the solenoid. After years the passageway gets to narrow and fluid won't flow through there until it is thin enough to do so at the right pressure (the speed you need for overdrive) This is why, when the fluid finally expands enough after warming up, it will activate the working solenoid and relay. If anyone has more to add to this I'd be glad to hear it- but after searching for a long time, this seemed to be a reason I could put some weight on. I'm getting the operation done on Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes.

It would depend on if you are doing a "complete" oil change or if you just need to add some oil if it leaks. If doing a complete change, then you would put in 4.5 to 5 quarts. Otherwise, for leakage, you would add what it needs. My Volvo 240 (1986) has a very small and slow leak, so in my experience, anywhere from 1/4 quart to 1/2 quart is normal. Good luck!

Above your left Knee when you are driving

Answered this question.

It's all held together under the intake manifold by vacuum. just pull it and clean it out with carb cleaner. IPDUSA.com sells a flametrap relocation kit that take the same time to install as a service usually does, it's worth every penny

If relay & fuse OK then you will need to remove overdrive solenoid from the side of the gearbox and clean it - gunk can build up around the small holes stopping the flow of auto fluid therefore stopping the gearbox going into overdrive.

It can happen intermittently until orifices block completely .

It actually uses ATF in the power steering system. I believe Dextron IID was the spec for '84, but fortunately the newer Dexron formulations are backwards compatible.

Remove the kick panel to the center console at the driver's right leg (left wheel drive). The flasher relay is black, about 1" by 1", three pins, and easily accessible right behind the panel. -Blue Goose

Sweden

Yes it has, it is on the first help page, page one.

A leak, either the pressure line or somewhere in the compressor.

Removing the hoses coming from the air box and the air plenum.

Next pry off the wire clip that secures the plug to the AMM.

Make note of the #s on it, there are a couple differrent ones.

My 1982 Volvo 244 GL had a B 23 E engine ( Canada only 1981 to ? )