You don't. Voltages are a nominal rating. 110 volts is within the nominal range at this potential. The voltage centre line is 115 volts. Utility companies are mandated to keep voltages locked within 5% of a centre line voltage. This means that it could be as high as 115 + 5% = 120.75 volts and as low as 115 - 5% = 109.25 volts

try a computer link device , it will read any problems with engine.youcan get them at most auto part stores

Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide. Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide.

You don't - according to the service manual. If you must it is located INSIDE the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. The fuel tank must be drained and removed to complete the procedure.

i had this problem on a older ford it was the module in the bottom of the distributor and the same problem in a newer car and it was the module under the coil packs The last answer is correct. Although it could also be the coil pack. If the resistance is off a little bit, it will get worse as the vehicle heats up. It will then kick the auto shut down relay and your done till it resets. Check the module and the coil pack. Depending on the kind of vehicle you have it could be either or both if it's a GM car from the 1980s or 1990s the fuel filter can get clogged to the point where the engine will stall after it's warmed up even tho the fuel pump etc etc are all okay. it does this because the filter is is mounted low and it's filling up due to gravity when the car is off. this often happens on Firebirds/Camaros and can be quite a problem. try changing the fuel filter. ps The diagnostic computer will often fail to see the problem

my 87 just had this problem...it was the mass air flow sensor. if its not that try the computer my 86 had the same problem, it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor

I think so.. I put in way too much today. I know right, I'm stupid.
I started it and it ran for like 10 seconds in idle before it stalled. I tried to start it again but no luck. It does turn over though.. so that's something.
I want to know if I wrecked my car.
:cry:

happened with my dads auto transmission.. it was shot and it wouldn't shift out of the 1st automatic gear, hence, not being able to accelerate over 20/ It could also be a tranmission tourque converter failing. Also could be a broken gear inside the tranny, which will not engage no matter what. I have one cause in mind, because it's often so obscure and difficult to diagnose, yet easy to fix. It's afflicted several cars I own. There are numerous possible causes, of course, like a coil that isn't feeding enough energy to the spark plugs, a choke that's stuck, a fuel pump that's not pumping, an electrical malfunction. But the one that comes to mind is a bad "sock' in the fuel tank. This "sock" is a toothpaste-tube-like fine screen in the fuel tank that is supposed to prevent small particles of junk from entering the fuel lines and the fuel pump. Over time, the pores of this thing can become absolutely restricted--I don't know whether it's a reaction to the gasoline, or whether it's a natural result of the material aging, or what. Result: Hardly enough fuel gets to the engine for it to run. And, of course, the faster you go, the more fuel you need, and the more noticable the restriction is. I've had this happen to two of my Fords, one of my Chevies, and a Buick that a friend had--though, at the time he had his problem, I didn't realize what it was, so we went through the usual routine of replacing fuel filters and fuel pumps. I'd say it happened to my Lincoln, too, but the sock in that car actually disintegrated and wound up being jammed to the carburetor's filter by the fuel pump. Yet in the case of the Lincoln, I couldn't get past 20 mph until the problem was solved by removing the tank, flushing it, reinstalling it, and installing an in-line filter between the tank and the fuel pump. In your case, if a sock is really the problem, I'd remove the fuel sending unit in the tank, chop the sock off, and install an in-line filter. Take this course if you've determined that the car is starving for fuel and you're sure the fuel pump isn't bad. One other possible symptom of this sock problem is observed when the car runs decently in cooler weather and starves for fuel in warmer weather. Another thing is, if you tried replacing your distributor cap and spark plugs. If you did not put them back on properly, the firing order is messed up and you'll have a hard time accelerating. Another cause could be a clogged, or partially clogged, catalytic convertor. Also, a collapsed interior wall of an exhaust pipe, in which case one might hear a whooshing sound as air tries to pass by the restriction.

ANSWER

Is the check engine light on? A bad speed sensor or possibly another sensor could keep the vehicle from up shifting or limiting speed to bring it home in "limp in mode" Possible bad catalytic converter.

Any number of things. Take the car and have it checked by a Tune-up shop.

Depends on if your vehicle is carbureted or has EFI. If it's a carbureted engine, then the carburetor's choke valve may need tuning. If it's EFI, then the voltage regulator could have shorted and that would cause a certain spark plug to short out so when that spark plug would attempt to fire, the ignition order would blow out of sequence and cause a stall in the car. If your car is EFI, then remove your suppression cables and check the spark plugs. If you have a bad spark plug, replace the spark plug and if the problem persists or if the same spark plug goes bad shortly after, then have a mechanic look at your voltage regulator, ignition coil, starter solenoid, starter relay, and ignition module.

on a vacuum type booster there is usually a vacuum leak. either on the rubber line that runs from the booster to the engine, or a hole in the diaphragm inside the booster. the rubber line is easy and inexpensive to replace so i would check it first. if you have a hole in the diaphragm the only way to fix it is to replace the booster.

check for a crack in the distributor cap

replace the distrubator cap and rotor could have a crack in it

If You Have A Car With A Fuel Injection System On It And The Fuel Pump Is Electric, Located In The Tank. Turn The Key On And OFF. Five Or Six Times, But Don`t Try To Start Car When Doing This. In Doing This It Will Allow The Fuel Pump To Run And Fill Fuel Line. Next There Should Be A Pressure Test Port Located In The Fuel Rail On top Of The Engine. Looks Like A Tire Valve. After Doing The Thing With The Fuel Pump, By Way Of The Ignition. Use A Small Screwdriver & Push In On Valve In The Test Port Fuel & Air Will Come Out. If You Do Not Get Fuel Like A Good Spray From Test Port. 1. You May Be Out Of Gas 2. Your Fuel Pump May Be Bad 3. Your Fuse May Be Bad, Or Bad Relay. Have A GOOD MECHANIC LOOK AT THIS FOR YOU. GOOD LUCK

More than likely the loss of fuel or air. What year is the vehicle.

It could be the Crank Position Sensor on the front of the motor. easy change, 2 bolts and a electrical connector.

this truck is a2000

Above answer is good, however I run a wrecker company and most of the time when one of the 7.3's stopped, they were low on oil. Simple, but check the oil first. Fuel pump can also cause it, plus the above.

try a new coilpack assembly ,,it worked for me I had a similar problem on my 87 Century 3.8l. My Cam Position Sensor was overheating which changed the voltage and kept the car from running. I diagnosed it by pouring some cold water on the sensor when the vehicle wouldn't start and when it did I knew it was that sensor. It could also have been the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I would have chilled it next to determine this. I would also test that the the Fuel Pressure is accurate. My fuel pump worked intermittently causing the car to be hard starting when hot. ( I replaced the fuel pump and then found out about the sensors.) Good Luck!

Not all 2000 saturns have been recalled or so Im told I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that ignition just stopped suddenlly one day turned over and nothing (good thing I have remote start)but when trying to get it fixed with recall they said there were very few affected by recall;;;let me know if you come up with ANY solutions,,thanks

Dont replace it!!! Take it to Saturn - ITS FREE - WAS RECALLED, goto the dealer and I am almost sure they will do it free of charge.

Yes, summer weight oil can get too thick in the cold and prevent the engine from turning over fast enough to start. This is a big problem in many diesel cars and trucks.

The question simply doesn't have enough information; but after all it is being asked in AUGUST so I seriously doubt thick oil is your actual problem. If the engine turns over too slowly to start, check out the starting circuit - battery, cables, starter solenoid, starter - and you'll probably find the problem (if slow cranking is the issue). Alternately, it depends on how the problem began (slow cranking). Could be a bearing almost seized up or some component in the serpentine belt drive that is already seized up (release tension on the belt to determine if that is the problem by releasing the idler (tensioner) pulley and dropping the belt loose before cranking. GOOD LUCK.

If your car hesitates when the brakes are applied, and or when you are driving it acts like it is giving itself gas, or accelarating on its own, The problem is your Throttle Position Sensor(TPS). It costs about $34.00 at autozone, and only takes about 10minutes to replace. sounds like you need a tune up. could possible be fuel filter or fuel pump. sounds like you need to replace fuel filter, air cleaner, and maybe a tune up

i had the same problem with my car i had to change the fuel pump

have had to do this many times first i would check the fuel pressure regulator it is located in the fuel rail

remove the small hose, vacume line see if fuel comes out of it if so it needs to be replaced

on intrepid at the back of the motor hard to get that's where i would start if no fuel leaking out of the hose or the regulator then i would do a fuel pressure test cold and hot to see if there is a leak down problem for some reason the fuel is leaking into the intake making it hard to start hot good luck also could be fuel injectors fuel pressure should tell if you know how to do a leak down test

What kind of car & year. Could be the idle air bypass valve. It is located on the throttle body. If you remove the hose and look in the throttle body, you can see a hole in there. Try to clean it with air intake cleaner first. Clean the throttle body with it about 25% of the can, then use the rest of the can into that hole! Do this with the vehicle is running. You may have to play with the throttle to do this. Try to keep the idle as low as possible. When done, stop the vehicle for 10 mins. then rev it up a lot and get all the black out.

There are two under the car, one is right inder the front passanger and another one that is right under the back seat.on the right side.

Looking into the bonnet it is inside the black plastic box on the right