Mastercylinder or wheel cylinder or caliper piston?
If it's a mastercylinder, toss it and get a new one.
Wheel cylinder, squeeze the brake shoes together, if it won't move, toss it.
Caliper piston, use a c-clamp and compress it. Now keep in mind. If it is a rear wheel caliper and it has any slots, like a regular screwdriver groove, or a plus pattern. These cannot be pushed but are rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. If it's a long slot use a flat bar or huge screwdriver, if it is 4 little cuts in the outer edge, use a pair of needle nose plyers and span the difference. Than use the tools to try turning the piston. It should move fairly easy, if not, toss it and replace. (Rotation of the piston is how the emergency brakes set)
it wont stop. You will very likely push the seals out of the brake cylinder and have to repair or replace it and bleed the brakes
hi people i have a Toyota selica 98 mod ... i need to remove my bk brake disk it wont budge iv loosened the hand brake and removed calloper ???any ideas thanks odbod
My Mom had the same problem with her truck.. It is due to a recalled part that is on the brake master cylinder
The bearings are probably just stuck on the spindle, you might need a puller to help, hammering wont get it and will damage other things, it needs to be pulled off nice and slow.
because it dose not move therefore it wont budge.
Four Possible reasons... Low brake fluid - check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder Emergency brake is on - check emergency brake Low brake fluid pressure - such as a broken brake line or a bad wheel cylinder. Check the master cylinder to see if it is empty. If you add fluid and pump the pedal you will probably see brake fluid on the ground or on the inside of the tires. Possibly a bad master cylinder. - The fluid will stay full but you will have no or little brake pressure. Could be air in the system as well. BE CAREFUL If you happen to add power steering fluid or transmission fluid to the master cylinder instead of brake fluid you will destroy the system. Make sure you use ONLY brake fluid and clean the master cylinder cap off with a clean rag first so no dirt gets into the braking system.
Yes, There are two sets of internal seals and a rear seal. The internal seals can fail and the cylinder will retain the Brake fluid, it just wont work correctly.
Sounds like the brake light switch is defective.Sounds like the brake light switch is defective.
stuck parking brake/stuck brake caliper
Is the bulb burned out? Is the fuse for that side brake light good? If both answers are 'yes', then perhaps you should have an automotive electrical specialist check out the problem.
Look for a broken or disconnected rubber vacuum line under the hood near the master brake cylinder area.
Some Times in a hurry I have pulled the emergency brake up too tightly. When I get back in and push the button to release it, it wont work. The brake is stuck, However, if I grab a hold of the brake handle, pull it up with a bit of force to remove the tension on the button, then push the button, it releases fine. Just remember next time not to set it so tightly.
Try bleeding your brake lines, you may have some gunk in there.
The brake light switch might not be connected properly. Remove the brake light switch for 10 seconds and replace it to its original position.
I have a 99 cadillac Eldorado. Am using the heavy duty water pump removal tool trying to turn it in the clockwise direction. Will not budge. Using a breaker bar with a 4 ft galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. Had to make two 8 inch long wooden dowels to wedge between the tool and the side of the engine compartment to keep the tool on. Still will not budge. Sprayed some liquid wrench on the tabs and will let it set overnight. If it still does not budge I will use a torch to heat it. Any comments?
First, what makes you sure it's the brake chamber? If your brakes are releasing when you push in the emergency air, but applying the foot brakes (which use the service line) has no effect, then the boot (gasket) within the brake chamber is probably worn, if it is a brake chamber issue. If you have a codriver (or just someone who can push on a brake), you should follow your service (blue) line under your trailer until you find a connector which you can uncouple. Once that's done, have them hit the brake pedal and see if air is even getting through the service line before you start messing with the brake chamber.
check the parking brake cables, any applied tension, and condition of the brake shoes
Check the brake light switch down on the brake pedal.
it could be a lot of different factors such as master cylinder is leaking past seels, crack in a brake line, leaking wheels cyclinders or calipers, air in the brake system that will cause brake pedal to go to floor if it is hard and wont move could be a failed brake booster
Bit of a job to start off with but you basically have to turn and push the cylinder back, and i did this with an old clutch puller and thin adjustable mollers. turning the centre of the clutch puller (which i removed one of the legs) wrapping the other 2 legs around the caliper, turning the centre spline and twisting the actual brake cylinder at the same time....pushing it back into place. Not the easiest job in the world, as the cylinder WONT go back with just force. It has to be pushed and turned at the same time.
Brake switch. Look behind the pedal. Push that in, and your brake should turn off. The problem is that your clip that goes into a hole in the pedal is now gone. So, the switch never gets pushed in. Tyler Killswitch Performance Brake switch. Look behind the pedal. Push that in, and your brake should turn off. The problem is that your clip that goes into a hole in the pedal is now gone. So, the switch never gets pushed in. Tyler Killswitch Performance