Does it have a big heavy wire, like your electric dryer, or a little light wire like your refrigerator. All electric cooktops that I know of are 240V. I have never seen one that is 120V.
In simple words, NO!!! On the first day of Electricity 101 they tell you if you do not know what you are doing, DON'T DO IT!!!
CL200 is the class of the meter240V is 240 volts3W is 3 wire (hot 120v / hot 120v / neutral)FM2S is the type of meterIs this an Itron meter? The FM2S will tell you what features it has when you look at the datasheets.
You can't. I'm not sure exactly what you're trying to do, but the way it is written is not possible. It seems you might want to use half of a duplex receptacle for 120 and half for 240. This would not be code compliant, nor would it make sense. A plug designed for 240v will not even fit into a 120v receptacle. You need a 240 volt receptacle rated for the amperage you will need. Also, an existing 120v receptacle has nothing to do with your 240v receptacle. For a 240 volt receptacle, you'll need to run 2 new 120v lines (in the same cable). The existing 120v circuit cannot be used here, even if you added another 120v circuit, because when a load uses 240v, both 120v circuits supplying the 240v must be controlled by a common disconnect (a 2 pole breaker designed for 240v circuit). My advice would be to show an electrician what you want done. I'm sure they can tell you how to make that happen.
Yes. Call them and tell them to disconnect service. OR... (and I wouldn't suggest doing this) ... stop paying the bill-- eventually they will disconnect you.
you tell me
It depends on what the appliance is. Some smaller appliances have a dual voltage switch which allows you to adjust the appliance to the supply voltage. Look on the manufacture's nameplate label to see what they recommend as a working voltage. There it will also tell you whether the appliance can be used on another voltage source. ==== Yes, you can. But it will fail ("burn out") almost immediately. If it's one that accepts either input voltage or if it has a little '120/240' switch on it, and you flip the little switch to the '240' position, then you're no longer talking about a "120v appliance".
one is electric and one is not
The 120V appliance will take twice as much current as the 240V one. The frequency (50Hz or 60 Hz) is irrelevant unless a synchronous motor is involved; even then the difference is small. Note. a motor-driven clock, or anything similar like a time switch will tell you the wrong time, and the error will get progressively worse.
tell me about the time when you gave effective customer service?
because they are green