most of the time this problem is caused by a vacume leak. You might have a vacume leak or a vacume hose boken. this is more than likely under your dash in the ac system switch. but it could be under the hood. look by the blower motor on the right side next to the fire wall. there is a hose from the engine to that area. that is a good place to start.
check all of the fuses.if they are ok, check the bulbs. If ok, have the headlight switch checked out. My dad has a 95 contour that had the same problem the tail lights and interior lights went out. There was some switch( I believe under the dash) that controled it, that had to be replaced by ford. I found this question actually looking for it because I had the same problem with my 93 Ford Probe. I tried everything. Changed fuses in car, checked bulbs, checked wiring, changed the brake light switch. Nothing worked. Finally figured out it was VERY simple problem!!! It was a fuse under the hood. There's a fuse box under there that I didn't even know of for a while. When I changed it I didn't even know if that was it and IT WAS. Now my dashlights and tail lights work. GOOD LUCK!!
Changed the ignition?? The key tumbler? The switch itself? The parts under the hood? IF the key, was the part in the column in good condition. Did the key assembly seat properly? If the switch itself, it is adjustable to a degree and may not be in the right place. Under the hood? Depends of what was changed.
When I changed my shifter in my 74 camaro I had a similar problem with the battery dying. I later found out that it was because my neutral safety switch was going bad. so what i did was bypass my neutral safety switch by taking it off and just keeping it in the park position but that made the problem worse so what i did was take the n/s switch that came with my shifter and ran two wires from the n/s (RED And PURPLE WHIRES) which is the park position under the carpet to the n/s for the console and i havnt had a problem. or what you can do is disconnect the green and purple wires and ru a jumper wire between them to see if that will work.
the reunning light relay is locsted in the fuse box. it is a small black box. just grab hold and pull out. I had a problem with my running lights, and when I replaced the DRL Relay, which is in the fuse box, it did nothing, so I changed the switch, which was under the dash, near the steering column. It is a small box, about an inch by by inch-and-a-half.
I had that problem, but by simply bending the bracket on which the switch is mounted to make better contact with the clutch pedal mechanism, the problem was solved. Look up under the dash on the drivers side. Follow the brake pedal up and you will find the switch. It is a simple device to adjust or replace.
The tcc switch (tcc brake switch) is located under the dash near the brake pedal. The tcc solenoid is located under the side cover in the transmission/transaxle. The tcc switch (tcc brake switch) is located under the dash near the brake pedal. The tcc solenoid is located under the side cover in the transmission/transaxle. The tcc switch (tcc brake switch) is located under the dash near the brake pedal. The tcc solenoid is located under the side cover in the transmission/transaxle.
There is a switch that closes when the lid is shut. Should be under the lip, opposite of the hinge side. There is a small plastic piece on the lid that pushes down on the switch. Either the plastic piece has broken off or the switch is bad. This is a common problem. It could be the control or the solenoid that engages the spin but I would bet on the switch.
we had the same problem. we changed the Crankshaft Position sensor, and also the camshaft position sensor. changed ignition coils, and the module under the ignition coil, and still had the stalling problem. an auto mechanic bought it from us and he discovered all that it was was a pinched wire under the ignition module.
I have the same problem with mine. What I have been able to learn is that it is possibly related to a dimmer switch located just under the dashboard with the roller-wheel and/or the "flash-to-pass" dimmer switch located on the steering column. You can try replacing the one on the steering column to see if that fixes the problem. If it is the dimmer switch under the dash, you will have to strip one out of a used vehicle somewhere or order it directly from Ford as it is a manufacturer's part only.
Your domelight has a 3 position switch on it. Always off, always on, and on when the door is open. Check this first with the doors closed. If it stays on in every position, this is a problem with the switch, or a short in your wiring. Each door has a button that is depressed when the door is closed. Go to each door one at a time and depress the switch several times to see if the light will go out. The most common problem is the mounting for the switch is loose and it won't allow the switch to go in all the way. If you still have a problem you will need to disconnect each switch until you find the short or find the connector under the dash and troubleshoot it.
Probably broken. The horn is four pieces, the horn(s) under the hood, the switch (in the steering wheel) the relay (under the dash) and the power. Without more information it's impossible to know which of these is the problem, but my experience is that the relay has been the problem more than half the time.
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