Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.
There are no adjustments here on a 2002 Explorer V8 ABS.
You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???
Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.
probably have broken parking brake cable.
The parking brake is set by pushing, with your foot, the parking brake pedal on the left side of floor area. It is released by pushing with foot again.
If the parking brake pedal on your 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 is stuck to the floor, you might have broken the parking brake cable. Remove the rear tires to see if the cable is still attached and replace it as needed.
1st adjust the rear service brakes Then check parking brake if still does not hold Adjustment should be at the junction of the cables under vehicle Set to "3" clicks and adjust so vehicle is held in place at that point
It could be one of serveral things. - Low brake fluid. - Parking brake is on or slightly on. - If the brake pedal has been pushed all the way to the floor. Check the fluid and parking brake first then go to plan B.
Get down on the floor board and look up at the brake pedal arm. You will see a switch that the arm hits when no pressure is applied to the brake. Twist the switch and adjust so when you barely touch the pedal the brake lights come on.
You need to adjust the parking brake shoes by taking the rubber plug off the back and adjusting them like regular brake shoes. On my 1997 Mercury Mountaineer I adjusted the brake shoes, but it didn't work. The parking brake wouldn't hold, so I replaced the drums, and shoes and it still didn't hold. Next I replaced all the brake cables, since there didn't seem to be a cable adjustment. The problem ended up being the parking brake assembly. The coil spring inside somehow came loose and uncoiled about one revolution. This spring "Is the parking brake cable adjustment", it provides pre-tension to the brake cable, so when you push on the parking brake pedal it starts applying the parking brake after about 2-3 clicks. I when to "Pick a Part" junkyard and bought one for about $13.00 and that fixed the problem. FYI: Just because you feel tension and hear clicking when pushing the parking brake down and the pedal comes back up when released, does not mean the pedal assembly is working. Check the cable tension when release and check the end of the coil spring to see if it is hooked over a metal tab (my broken unit, spring was up against the end of the brake cable and wasn't providing pre-tension) If you replace the rear brake shoes and the parking brake doesn't hold, don't just also replace all the brake cables like I did, because it still didn't work. If you can push the brake pedal all-the-way to the floor and it still won't hold, do the following: - Release the parking brake and look under the car on the drivers side and inspect the parking brake cable and cable tension. - The cable should not be loose when released, and the cable should be centered in the holes in the frame. - If the cable is loose when released, the problem is the "Brake Pedal Assembly" under the dash on left side.
No Parking on the Dance Floor was created in 1982.
Air in the brake system- Brake system needs to be bleed and fluid needs to be added while you are doing that.
If it is to loose when you pull the parking brake handle = tighten the bolt that is under the panel that surrounds the parking brake handle on the floor. If it's not the handle there is a wire hooked to an fork with an spring load on each rear brake fundament. Look from behind on the inside of the brake disc and see that the wire is a tight and tension loaded fit. None the above, make sure the brake pads are in recommended value (6 mm thickness of lining with the metal plate)
Have your brake system checked immediately! (by a proffesional)
That really depends on the type of failure. IF you should step on the brake pedal and it just goes right to the floor, pump them to see if it helps, If not gently apply the "parking" brake to slow and stop the vehicle. DO NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until the entire brake system is repaired, It is very important to have the "Parking-Emergency" brake checked for proper operation whenever the car is serviced,,,,,,oil changes, tune ups,etc.
Safest way: Set Parking brake Push clutch pedal to the floor Shift to neutral Turn key to start
I am not 100% sure, but I do believe you have to adjust the nut on the cable underneath the emergency lever. Some off them are also located under the car along the floor pan.
dont fully understand? if the brake pedal went to the floor there is a hole in the line some where or braking system If you are saying it is going straight to the floor like "whoosh" without any pressure then it is either your brake booster or master cylinder or both.
The below answer is incorrect if you have rear disc brakes. Do not adjust the cable. The parking brake is adjusted inside the rear wheel assembly similar to a drum brake. Must be adjusted with the tire and wheel removed. Tighten the adjuster just as you would a drum brake till you cannot turn the axle then back it off just a bit.The "parking brake" on some later model GM vehicles is not an emergency brake as in the past. It is only meant to hold the vehicle when parked and it does not do a very good job even when properly adjusted.Adjusting the parking brake cable can cause the parking brake to be applied when the pedal is not depressed leading to early parking brake shoe wear and failure.Underneath your vehicle, Left side along frame raila steel cable comes from front to back to a threaded end with an adjuster nut on it---(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it towards therear left wheel, outside of frame rail.You might have to jack-up the left side of the vehicle.Push the parking brake all the way to the floor then release it. Push the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.
when setting in the vehicle in the drivers seat it is directly bedide the seat on the right side of the drivers seat in the floor!
directly below the parking brake their should be a dipstick going through the floor platform. between your feet when you are on the tractor.
no! you have air in the brake system or there is no pressure for some reason. look for leaks. bleed the system.
A brake fluid leak in the system would do that. Check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is empty you are in need of brake work asap!
Assuming all Trackers have a "Pull-Up" parking / Emergency brake between the seats like my '91 and '95 4WD's have: Remove the (4) screws holding the center housing / console to the floor and pull it up and forward over the brake handle (release the brake first!). This reveals the adjuster nut that's below the parking brake handle - the threaded rod the nut is on points toward the dash... simply use a wrench (10mm? can't recall) to turn the nut clockwise to pull more of the cable into the cab. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you will burn up your rear brakes. Always err on the side of slack.
Your owners manual explains exactly how to do this. You put the parking brake lever to the floor and, while keeping your foot on the brake pedal to keep car from rolling after parking brake is released, push the button on lever all the way in and while keeping button pressed the whole time, pull up until you get the lever past the notch you locked it in to begin with. Then, without releasing the button, lower the lever all the way to the floor. If done correctly the park light WILL go off. Do not drive the car with this light on or else you will end up with major problems. Hope this helps.
If your brakes are new and the system has been bled, your next step is to see if you have a leak in any of your brake lines and also check your brake master cylinder to see if it's working or not.
They do. Every time you back up and step on the brake, it activates the self adjuster. It has it's limitations. If you don't know how to manually adjust your drum brakes, have your mechanic do it for you. If you feel your brake pedal is mushy or you have to push it almost to the floor, it may mean your rear drums need adjusting.
No Good, Excessive brake travel!