None of the receiver screws need to be removed to tighten or remove the barrel. There is a barrel lock in the barrel lock ring behind the barrel adjusting ring (the hand nut) that should go into receiver and keep the barrel aligned and then just tightening and loosing should tighten up the barrel. If the lock is missing try e-gunparts if not you just need to get all that really cleaned up and well oiled. The 24, 241, and the current browning is still basically the same gun if you want to look at one at a shop for comparison. If you need more help you should head over to the Remington Society of America forums.
Remington Model 12 barrels are threaded to the action. Barrels can be replaced with the proper equipment.
You will probably have to contact a barrel maker.
Adjust? You mean to remove or tighten? There is a threaded tightening bolt right in front of the receiver over the barrel.
Yes, if it is a modern Remington barrel because these barrels come pre-threaded and accept REM chokes (and many other manufacturer's chokes made for the Remington barrel). Otherwise it will have the choke description stamped on the barrel like, "FULL". I have an older Remington barrel that was a "FULL" choke that I had a gunsmith thread for me. The ability to thread a barrel for chokes will depend on the thickness of the barrel wall. Consult a trained gunsmith.
No deck is threaded it is the headset and the forks that can be threaded or threadless
A flange threaded in center used for weld or different types of threaded pipe.
Beginning with MY 1988, the 900s had the same brakes as the 9000s. The rear brake piston must be turned in with a special wrench, not compressed as in earlier 900s.According to the manual (you do have a manual, don't you!) you need to remove the threaded screw plug covering the adjusting screw. The piston adjusting screw requires a 4mm Allen head wrench.
The first thing you should do if the motor is turning, is check to see if your machine is threaded correctly. Then check to be sure your bobbin is in and threaded correctly. If it still won't sew, check both your upper and lower tension. Adjust until the stitches are even and tight, but not too tight. See related link below for more information on adjusting tension.
Yes, it is has a very important job. It is the primary chain tensioner adjusting nut. The stud is attached to a nylon chain guide and cannot be removed without disassembly.
Yes.
Most Craftsman riding mowers have an adjusting nut on the pivoting linkage. If you look on top of the deck there are two arms coming from above that raise and lower the deck. The bottom of these rods are threaded and can be adjusted right there.
Black steel depending on schedule can be threaded from 1/8" - 8" Personally I threaded up to 6"